And to add to the frustration, all exhaust are not the same, slip joints between headers and rear section are more forgiving, but often getting everything to work correct is challenge. I have had to physically cut and re-weld a brand new Ansa exhaust to get the muffler tips straight.
There's always 180's!
Julian
Like Steve, I have the 2 1/2" pipes. My buddy modified the collectors on my headers, and then ran larger diameter pipes to the stock ANSAs.
ANSA -1 Build
Anyway - if you are going even bigger, it's going to be tight. You may have to follow Julian's advice on the 180s!
Good Luck.
Rocky
ANSA -1 Build
Anyway - if you are going even bigger, it's going to be tight. You may have to follow Julian's advice on the 180s!
Good Luck.
Rocky
The CV joints from Scott is a very good addition. More room and much less vibration. You don't realize how much you have until you go with the CV's.
quote:Originally posted by Rocky:
Like Steve, I have the 2 1/2" pipes. My buddy modified the collectors on my headers, and then ran larger diameter pipes to the stock ANSAs.
ANSA -1 Build
Anyway - if you are going even bigger, it's going to be tight. You may have to follow Julian's advice on the 180s!
Good Luck.
Rocky
This is not intended as a criticism but Precision Proformance already has built 2" primary tube with 3-1/2" collectors for the Pantera.
I have no idea how well they fit the application though. A smaller axle assembly might be required?
IF you ask me, the tubes show the typical "bluing" of the stainless tubing.
Ceramic doesn't do that ALTHOUGH it can dull in spots due to the heat.
Attachments
These are PIM's. They seem to have addressed the collector JUST a bit differently?
Attachments
If your particular Pantera simply cannot provide enough exhaust pipe clearance around halfshafts and/or antiswaybars, consider that one of the car magazines (I think) ran a series of tests on various exhaust systems using a SBC mounted on an engine dyno. After the usual small gains & losses from the different headers & muffler systems was recorded, sort of as a joke, one of the participants asked if small dents had any effect.
So they whacked one header pipe with a dull ax, producing a dent that was about 30% of the tube dia. The next dyno run showed NO MEASURABLE EFFECT from the visible restriction. Getting into it, they eventually smashed ALL 8 of the header tubes; still no effect on power even when one tube was nearly pinched off.
If you accept their results, adding small dents in the pipes to clear unavoidable metal-to-metal contact around our rear suspension will likely not slow down your next WOT Silver State run much if at all....
So they whacked one header pipe with a dull ax, producing a dent that was about 30% of the tube dia. The next dyno run showed NO MEASURABLE EFFECT from the visible restriction. Getting into it, they eventually smashed ALL 8 of the header tubes; still no effect on power even when one tube was nearly pinched off.
If you accept their results, adding small dents in the pipes to clear unavoidable metal-to-metal contact around our rear suspension will likely not slow down your next WOT Silver State run much if at all....
That is a picture with the suspension hanging. You need to measure it with it fully compressed.
It should be less then the static distance from the hub connection at the ZF that shows now.
You only need something like 2-1/2".
The original Ansa pipes I took off of the car were dimpled on one side for the axles. Just the one side. I don't remember which AND they were 2-1/4" pipes.
I'm skeptical of 4" but with that new kind of axle I doubt a 2-1/2" will have any issue.
Unless you were going for a race car, a 3" pipe only adds more noise to the exhaust.
2-1/2" is more manageable sound wise. 3" is going to sound like an open unmuffled exhaust.
Talking about unsprung weight? Look at the mass of that 1-1/4" vented brake rotor? That I do not understand considering the puny size of those motorcycle rear calipers? What's that about?
It should be less then the static distance from the hub connection at the ZF that shows now.
You only need something like 2-1/2".
The original Ansa pipes I took off of the car were dimpled on one side for the axles. Just the one side. I don't remember which AND they were 2-1/4" pipes.
I'm skeptical of 4" but with that new kind of axle I doubt a 2-1/2" will have any issue.
Unless you were going for a race car, a 3" pipe only adds more noise to the exhaust.
2-1/2" is more manageable sound wise. 3" is going to sound like an open unmuffled exhaust.
Talking about unsprung weight? Look at the mass of that 1-1/4" vented brake rotor? That I do not understand considering the puny size of those motorcycle rear calipers? What's that about?
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Talking about unsprung weight? Look at the mass of that 1-1/4" vented brake rotor? That I do not understand considering the puny size of those motorcycle rear calipers? What's that about?
That is probably the e-brake.
quote:Originally posted by Husker:quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Talking about unsprung weight? Look at the mass of that 1-1/4" vented brake rotor? That I do not understand considering the puny size of those motorcycle rear calipers? What's that about?
That is probably the e-brake.
You are probably right but look at the braided line running to it. Is that a hydraulic hand brake?
The e-brake caliper is a mechanical kart style you can see the actuator arm and the bracket for the cable housing, it's not hooked up in the photo.
I think the braided hydraulic line likely goes to the main caliper.
Julian
I think the braided hydraulic line likely goes to the main caliper.
Julian
The calipers on the top of the picture is p-brake, I have the same, cable not attached yet in the picture. They don't weight much, alu
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