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Those look very nice, if you pick up a set be sure to let us know how the install goes. I am not sure if they are ideal for the 5 point harness although I am sure they are adequate. I have done track events with the Porsche Club of America and I'm not sure if they would pass muster. They fit very well into the cockpit though.

(I just looked at their website, they sell a "Trips device" for the seat which properly locates the shoulder harness in the event of impact, probably a good addition if you are going to use the 5 points, not that you are it is just that they are in the photos)
I think I'm right in saying Larry Stock sells these seats (or very similar) and personalizes them with the Isis logo embroidered into the headrest. I'm also fairly certain he changes out or modifies the rake knobs to get them to fit.

They look taller seat cushions than oem seats, so would benefit from dropped floor pans if you are tall.
Though not on the topic of THESE seats, I am still yawning from last night's extended "SEAT INSTALLATION" episode with a set of C4 seats redone by Gary Herrig.

Not exactly "plug and play" in the fitment department. They're in, and comfortable as anything. Look awesome. Couple things to check on these or others -

1. If you have a 74, your e brake has a 'ridge' on the top of the box. IT WILL make a difference in your seat clearance. Trust me.

2. Passenger seat hitting the firewall hump is a problem. You'll need to cant your seats 'inward' to make ANY clearance past the hump. My stock seats conformed to the hump okay; the Herrig seats smack it solidly. Passenger seat in my car is limited in rear travel.

3. Driver's seat is pretty good, but as noted, the 'height' of the seat bottom is critical.

4. Check the angle of your seating portion. Ideally, it should be tilted 'back' (higher in front) to both lift your legs AND get your upper body back away from the roof. Limited rake means the seat bottom angle MUST be very close to ideal to start with.

My car is indeed WAY more comfortable to drive in, no question. However, at about 11 last night, I was mentally writing the ad to sell the passenger seat. Some unpleasant words might've been uttered.
Hudson, Kudos for keeping the OEM wheel but upgrading the seats. The original steering wheel is probably a styling high point in our cars and not to be messed with Smiler

Seriously though, your seats look great as do the ones from classiccarseats.

Do either of the above seats sit higher off the floor than the original? I am 6'3" and fit in my car with the original seats, but barely. Losing any clearance would be a big downer.

Terry, where did you get that roll bar?
quote:
Do either of the above seats sit higher off the floor than the original? I am 6'3" and fit in my car with the original seats, but barely. Losing any clearance would be a big downer.


FWIW, I see no advantage to changing seats when simple rework fixes things. I took our OEM early '72 seats (3-piece) to Mike Cook in Norco CA. He stripped the seat frames, bent the bottom rear frame rail into a slight 'U' for more taibone clearance, used all-new foam to re-contour the seating pocket and finished them in leather. Cost was $300 per seat some years ago. Then I slotted the seatback strap-attachments so I could adjust the seat-rake a few degrees fwd/back. I'm 6'2" and my head, with a full-face helmet on, clears the roof and 6-hour highway drives in relative comfort are no problem to my 70-yr-old back. The seats look stock! Hall uses the same upholsterer, I think.
quote:
Originally posted by 72red:
Hudson, Kudos for keeping the OEM wheel but upgrading the seats. The original steering wheel is probably a styling high point in our cars and not to be messed with Smiler

Seriously though, your seats look great as do the ones from classiccarseats.

Do either of the above seats sit higher off the floor than the original? I am 6'3" and fit in my car with the original seats, but barely. Losing any clearance would be a big downer.

Terry, where did you get that roll bar?


Yes, I bought several original steering wheels and hang them in my house as artwork.

I ordered a Prototipo yesterday, but I DO plan on keeping my original wheel and mint crash pad to ogle.

ANYWAY, yes, the seats are off the floor a bit more. About 3/4" at the rear. The fronts are up about 1 1/2" which HELPS the clearance by tilting you back.

Bosswrench is right that simple mods could do it, and retain a stock look. The side blosters however are still nonexistent if that's important to you.

Personally, I think a case could be made to mod the stockers (as per Bosswrench) for a decent side buisness. I'd buy a pair right now just to keep in case the prices of "originality" trumped mods. That day is coming, but my back and comfort appreciate this for now.

Best wishes. Let us know your progress. I'm going to go stare at my stock steering wheel some more.
Installing after market seats ...

I installed Recaro LX-C leather seats in my car. In order to deal with the engine "hump" the seatback of the passenger seat was modified. Kirk Evans hump mod was not available to me 16 years ago - If it was, I would have gone that route rather than modify my pax seat.

Quote from your post:

" Not exactly "plug and play" in the fitment department. They're in, and comfortable as anything. Look awesome. Couple things to check on these or others -

1. If you have a 74, your e brake has a 'ridge' on the top of the box. IT WILL make a difference in your seat clearance. Trust me.1. If you have a 74, your e brake has a 'ridge' on the top of the box. IT WILL make a difference in your seat clearance. Trust me.

2. Passenger seat hitting the firewall hump is a problem. You'll need to cant your seats 'inward' to make ANY clearance past the hump. My stock seats conformed to the hump okay; the Herrig seats smack it solidly. Passenger seat in my car is limited in rear travel. "


Adam, you refer to a ridge on the e-brake. In order to gain lateral room for the passenger seat pan, I replaced the rubber handle cover with a sewn leather piece and made a modification to the metal part holding the e-brake:

When the e-brake plastic cover is removed as well as the rubber e-brake handle cover, there will be two tangs (screw lugs) for the handle cover holdown (the oval metal bracket on the bottom of the rubber handle cover) mounting screws. I bent these two screw lugs back to the metal body. The new e-brake leather cover was extended down to cover the now narrower mounting "box" as well. (Everything is reversable if you want to go back to original)

This will gain you about an inch of lateral passenger seat pan room.

Installing aftermarket seats in an original 71-74 car for a 6'1" guy (in order to keep the headroom and passenger room) took A LOT of work, frustration and some engineering. The end result is well worth it though. No more back aches, butt aches and driving hard is enjoyable.

Enjoy your seats. If you need more pax seat room, think about the Kirk Evans hump mod.
My seats were recovered and re-foamed by my friends car tuning shop (they do a lot of Escalades with custom interiors and bling). They are redone in original vinyl. They were a mess before I sent them out - ripped, mouse eaten, cigarette burns, etc. Cost me $600. The car has never run for more than about 30 min. so I haven't determined how comfortable or uncomfortable they are going to be. I might try a set of Recaro Sportster CS seats, they look simple, light, and comfy. There is a little sour grapes on my part regarding my original steering wheel, mine was so cracked and faded when I got the car you wouldn't recognize it.
The rollbar is from precisionproformance. I'm 5-10, I left on the adjusting slides on the drivers side it does lift you up maybe a inch. I left them off on the passenger side. It sits very close to the stock seats. And my stock seats were so bad I didn't want to deal with them. And these are easer on my back and hold me place much better.
Most important part is that the seat be really flat on the bottom. That one looks like it is. Second, if you're going to use sliders, they also need to be as low profile as possible. We modified ours to make the sliders sit really flat.

If no one else is goin to drive your car, you can bolt the seat down directly to the floor pan and gain a lot of head room.
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