Mike and Mark,
# 3463 was originally Grabber Blue also. Any chance either of you have the shipper on the car which might have # 3463 on it?
Mike > did your car come from Mike Mayberry? He is a longtime friend of mine here in SoCal and happened to find and originally restore my car 1999-2003.
Dave # 3463 ...the only Grabber Blue left on my car...
What model no. is the muffler and what are the pipe sizes - look really nice
Dave
My car did come from Mayberry. Since your vin# is close to mine---does your car have the small indicator lights on the dash? Brake warning, etc. I have none and there is no evidence they were ever there???
Mike #3482
My car did come from Mayberry. Since your vin# is close to mine---does your car have the small indicator lights on the dash? Brake warning, etc. I have none and there is no evidence they were ever there???
Mike #3482
Panterapatt
The mufflers are Cherry Bomb Extreme # 545-7425
Pipes, DynoMax 2" mandrel J bends # 289-42310
Tips, Hooker large bore #520-22202
I got everything from Jegs.
The muffler is 2.5 in and 2.25 out so you will need to weld in adapters. I sawed off the muffler where the adapters go so they could be angled up to get that upswept look. The hardest part is getting both sides the same. Nothing worse than crooked tips!
The mufflers are Cherry Bomb Extreme # 545-7425
Pipes, DynoMax 2" mandrel J bends # 289-42310
Tips, Hooker large bore #520-22202
I got everything from Jegs.
The muffler is 2.5 in and 2.25 out so you will need to weld in adapters. I sawed off the muffler where the adapters go so they could be angled up to get that upswept look. The hardest part is getting both sides the same. Nothing worse than crooked tips!
quote:Originally posted by midenginemike:
one more
How do you keep the tip inserts from being blown out from the pressure?
Mike,
Is the small red light in the center of the pods what you are referring too? I have that.
Mike Mayberry can't wait to see my car completed and here in SoCal. We found several secret messages from him as the car was torn apart. You probably have them on your car too. Check under the console, and attached to the driver's door lock.
Dave # 3463
Is the small red light in the center of the pods what you are referring too? I have that.
Mike Mayberry can't wait to see my car completed and here in SoCal. We found several secret messages from him as the car was torn apart. You probably have them on your car too. Check under the console, and attached to the driver's door lock.
Dave # 3463
quote:And if you are not familure with some of the modifications that can be done to improve the originals you should take a look at this link on the New England Pantera website.
http://panteraownersnewengland.com/big_pipes.htm
John
Good info there. I have Pat Mical's headers on my car, plus mated them to original Ansa mufflers (old style) and welded on SS tips - just slipped them right over the old ones and it worked perfectly. The car sounds incredible -every gear, on or off throttle.
I do NOT like 'loud' but this is just right for me. Very powerful, very strong, but NEVER like a rattly header. When the headers were sent to Roush's shop, the head tech there said they were the nicest built set of headers he's ever seen.
Worth a look. Primaries and collectors larger than any others I found.
Panteradoug--
The outer sleeve is not welded to the inner part between the 10 and 2 oclock position. They fit snug and then bend out the upper portion to make it fit even tighter. It is a straight thru design so there isnt really much pressure buildup. Hope you can make out my explanation......Mike
The outer sleeve is not welded to the inner part between the 10 and 2 oclock position. They fit snug and then bend out the upper portion to make it fit even tighter. It is a straight thru design so there isnt really much pressure buildup. Hope you can make out my explanation......Mike
Dave,
Yes. Im asking about the red "brakes" light. Some have 2 lights between the tach and speedo. Does yours ? Can you measure where the hole(s) need to be drilled and let me know ? The wires are there for the "brakes" light, but I dont see any more extra wires for other lights.
Thanks, Mike #3482
Yes. Im asking about the red "brakes" light. Some have 2 lights between the tach and speedo. Does yours ? Can you measure where the hole(s) need to be drilled and let me know ? The wires are there for the "brakes" light, but I dont see any more extra wires for other lights.
Thanks, Mike #3482
Here's my creation. Dual dynomax race bullets with ansa tips. A bit loud but good sound.
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Mike,
1 red light in the "center" of the 2 instrument pods.
My car will be back the week of the 28th. I will measure and shoot a picture for you then.
Dave # 3463
1 red light in the "center" of the 2 instrument pods.
My car will be back the week of the 28th. I will measure and shoot a picture for you then.
Dave # 3463
Mike,
Enjoyed seeing what a nice piece of work you have done in keeping the car looking original but at the same time improving it. Looks clean and fits the look of the Pantera. I have been looking at those mufflers myself & even before Cherry Bomb had bought out IMCO's line they were stainless steel. Guess I move to slow.
Very good looking Pantera!
Mark
Enjoyed seeing what a nice piece of work you have done in keeping the car looking original but at the same time improving it. Looks clean and fits the look of the Pantera. I have been looking at those mufflers myself & even before Cherry Bomb had bought out IMCO's line they were stainless steel. Guess I move to slow.
Very good looking Pantera!
Mark
My exhaust system consists of headers from Pat Mical that have been ceramic coated inside and out silver, by Jet Hot coatings. The collector is a full 3"
The mufflers are a set of Big Bore's that have been flipped up-side down so that the exhaust tips flip up, like European Ansa's. A custom 3" down pipe was fabricated by Kook's Custom on Long Island and the entire assembly was fitted to the car. The back part of the exhaust was ceramic coated black so that it pretty much dissapera up against the chassis. Kook's also provided a set of 4 Corsa custom polished stainless steel exhaust tips.
The mufflers are a set of Big Bore's that have been flipped up-side down so that the exhaust tips flip up, like European Ansa's. A custom 3" down pipe was fabricated by Kook's Custom on Long Island and the entire assembly was fitted to the car. The back part of the exhaust was ceramic coated black so that it pretty much dissapera up against the chassis. Kook's also provided a set of 4 Corsa custom polished stainless steel exhaust tips.
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Wow...This thread sure did draw a lot of interest !! Its great to see everyones ideas and fabrication work. Lets see some more !
Mike 3482
Mike 3482
Show Them To Me!
That opening line is for all you Rodney Carrington fans and connoisseurs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16cWiWj--8E
But since I’m in the processing of fabbing a set of 180s for my Pantera what I’d really like to see in this thread is your 180 header installations and thought it might be beneficial to have a sticky to form a repository of sorts of Pantera exhaust mods and George obliged with pasting in some related threads (thanks G).
Of particular interest to me is the routing of primaries, mufflers used, and choice of tail pipe exit locations.
I’ve committed to do the deed in stainless, using stepped primaries (1.75”-1.875”-2.00”), merge collectors, and straight through packed mufflers. I’ll piece the primaries together from mandrel bends and have a long block and ZF mocked up on a dolley in my shop and have taken the various measurements for routing.
I chose the 6.25” diameter by 17” OAL Burns single stage mufflers over the smaller 4.5” versions. I have 4.5” units on my GT40 and do not find them objectionably loud for my use but because my Pantera is a street car, I thought a little extra attenuation might be beneficial but did not feel the need to go to a the 2-stage muffler, although, there is a version that is dimensionally identical if I ever wanted to go this route. I actually bought the mufflers from Coast Fab because I wanted a couple minor inlet and outlet mods and they fab all of Burns stuff any way. For what it’s worth, they were great people to work with and turned them in 2 days!
I mocked it up first to see how they laid in and what would be possible for routing and exiting centrally in the condenser opening. It became apparent fairly early that I wasn’t as flush with length as I thought since the total stacked length of the turns of the primaries as they enter the collectors, the length of a true merge collector, muffler and tail pipe length, adds up very quickly. I think I’ll need a slight turn down in the tail pipes to exit in the center of the condenser opening as the mufflers begin to interfere with the ZF selector box as shown in the picture.
I must confess that I have a difficult time looking at the rear end of my Pantera without the Ansa style cans, but just can’t stand the performance hit for my state of tune. I plan on making a couple of fiberglass filler panel inserts for existing Ansa muffler cans that allow for easily reversing the mod and swapping back if so desired in the future. It’ll be a slow moving but worthwhile project.
So, show them (your 180s) to me!
That opening line is for all you Rodney Carrington fans and connoisseurs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16cWiWj--8E
But since I’m in the processing of fabbing a set of 180s for my Pantera what I’d really like to see in this thread is your 180 header installations and thought it might be beneficial to have a sticky to form a repository of sorts of Pantera exhaust mods and George obliged with pasting in some related threads (thanks G).
Of particular interest to me is the routing of primaries, mufflers used, and choice of tail pipe exit locations.
I’ve committed to do the deed in stainless, using stepped primaries (1.75”-1.875”-2.00”), merge collectors, and straight through packed mufflers. I’ll piece the primaries together from mandrel bends and have a long block and ZF mocked up on a dolley in my shop and have taken the various measurements for routing.
I chose the 6.25” diameter by 17” OAL Burns single stage mufflers over the smaller 4.5” versions. I have 4.5” units on my GT40 and do not find them objectionably loud for my use but because my Pantera is a street car, I thought a little extra attenuation might be beneficial but did not feel the need to go to a the 2-stage muffler, although, there is a version that is dimensionally identical if I ever wanted to go this route. I actually bought the mufflers from Coast Fab because I wanted a couple minor inlet and outlet mods and they fab all of Burns stuff any way. For what it’s worth, they were great people to work with and turned them in 2 days!
I mocked it up first to see how they laid in and what would be possible for routing and exiting centrally in the condenser opening. It became apparent fairly early that I wasn’t as flush with length as I thought since the total stacked length of the turns of the primaries as they enter the collectors, the length of a true merge collector, muffler and tail pipe length, adds up very quickly. I think I’ll need a slight turn down in the tail pipes to exit in the center of the condenser opening as the mufflers begin to interfere with the ZF selector box as shown in the picture.
I must confess that I have a difficult time looking at the rear end of my Pantera without the Ansa style cans, but just can’t stand the performance hit for my state of tune. I plan on making a couple of fiberglass filler panel inserts for existing Ansa muffler cans that allow for easily reversing the mod and swapping back if so desired in the future. It’ll be a slow moving but worthwhile project.
So, show them (your 180s) to me!
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I saw this companies website on a post here somewhere, they can make you anything. Ive never called them but they have some very cool tools for the home fab of headers, in the photos section they have a set of GT40 180's, an I thnk they can make any type of collector you want, in stainless or steel.
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/mergecollectors
Jeff
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/mergecollectors
Jeff