Dear Friends , i search for a right stub axle .
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LH or RH tread ?
Not that I have a spare , but just was asking to be more clear.
Simon
Weld it up & lathe it down it'll be stronger than new.
There are generally 3 ways to repair stock stub axles: by lathing down the shaft so the worn/indented spots disappear, then hard-chrome plating followed by grinding to correct size. I fixed stub axles for years by welding up with Stellite C hard-face alloy followed by grinding down to size, checked at std temp- usually the next morning when they cooled down. The easy way is to simply weld it up with mild steel & grind it back down to "size" of 1.5748" +0.0004/-0.0002" (press fit); some brand-new factory-stock axles were smaller than that. I've found home-made solid billet axles (not hollow) in a couple of Panteras....
You need a shop that can control the repair grinding to +/- 0.0002", and the average shop doesn't own a proper micrometer to check the shaft OD to the 4th decimal or control the shop temperature. Cheap bearings can vary more than the std press-fit tolerance. I've seen stock axles FALL OUT of stock bearings due to tolerances so you need to mic' bearings, too. I've also seen stub axles factory installed in the opposite sides for their left and right-hand threads, so as long as the nut torque is high enough- (350-450 ft-lbs), they work fine on either side. Don't worry about stripping the threads; the SAE says that size thread in mild steel strips at 1150-1200 ft-lbs!
Problem with ALL of these fixes is, the stock axles are plain mild steel with extremely hard heat treated steel bearing races running on them. When you up the power or increase the rear tire width, the axles flex and the hard bearing race indents them from spalling. Breakage happens just below the depth of the large hardened load-bearing spacer that takes all the axle nut torque, not at the worn spots. Many repairs are press-fitted to less than spec's, and torqued to a lower amount. The factory spanner wrench socket is near-useless but the vendors today sell a decent one.
Racers know that with stock axles and big, sticky tires, brand new stock axles WILL break within 3-4 hrs of racing stress. On the street, maybe never? Nowadays, with the availability of much stronger, reasonably priced aftermarket 300-M solid steel axles at all the U.S. vendors, I'd say fixing stockers is a waste of time & effort. I no longer do it. YMMV
Thanks for your answers! I found an old article here about the stub axles fromWilkinson: are they race proven now ? Thanks Peter
The strongest axles are probably the ones made by Mark Williams Enterprises but they are significantly more expensive than Wilkinson’s.
Peter, the 300M steel solid axles are race-able with gumball tires. ALL hollow axles are not. And I suggest a new axle nut as well. I would also micrometer-check each axle shaft and bearing for proper press fit OD, just to be sure. Anyone can make a mistake and I do all I can to make sure it's not me!
I have a set of new Billet steel axels that I never used for sale if your interested ?