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David -

Are you running the same size tube from the thermostat housing to the swirl tank?

That’s an interesting fitting, it seems smaller than the stock tubing.

Nice looking tank, BTW!

JFB - Based on the detail that you have in your document (five pages) – that looks pretty expensive. Have you had good luck with your builder reading (and following) your very comprehensive instructions?


The heads are SVO C302B so there is no thermostat housing like there is on a 351C. Each head has a -12AN coolant "out" line that connects directly to the swirl tank. BTW, two temp sensors live in this tank and there's also a sight glass, so it's  easy to make sure the tank is full. A length of 1.5" tubing leaves the bottom of the swirl tank and runs all the way to a remote, by-pass thermostat at the inlet of the rad. If the thermostat is closed, coolant bypasses the rad and returns to the water pump. In the return line, there is a Stewart electric booster pump, to help the mechanical water pump pull coolant back to the engine. It's main purpose is to eliminate cavitation.

As an aside, the suction is so strong at the inlet to the electric water pump, I use it to pull coolant through the heater core. The inlet fitting is just before the remote thermostat housing, in the opposite coolant line, and the heater control valve is up there too. The heater hoses pass through the bulkhead and connect to the core with two very short hoses. This would be a good strategy for Coyote conversions, to help eliminate a bunch of heater hose related "stuff" from the front of the motor.   

Also note- stock black painted steel water tanks on most Panteras were chrome or nickel plated inside and out to resist rust. Welding or brazing on such tanks will burn away the plating, then your welds will rust. Recommend you use an aluminum or SS tank as shown for such mods. I've seen everything in redneck Panteras including gallon soup cans soldered to rusted out water tanks!

I initially filled my header "full" at cold.    it then pee'd with several drives,  leaving a cold level about 6" down.    i can't recall the diameter of the tank to calculate the volume due to heat swell.

that was the amount i once calc. for coolant expansion (70 to 220f)   so i set the top of header tank about 6" above top of swril so swril should stay full.

having excessive empty volume will delay building pressure as that volume of air compresses

Last edited by jfb05177

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