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I would like to introduce myself. My name is Stephan and living in Yardley, PA. Being the proud owner of a 1972 Pantera, #4164 which I acquired in December 2023. The car was accidentally found on craigslist while looking for something completely different. Located in upstate NY, the previous owner acquired the car in 2000, disassembled the car and was planning on fully restoring it before he became very ill and had to abandon the project. Being an aviation engineer he was meticulous in planning out the project and acquired all parts needed for the restoration before the disassembly. I received boxes and boxes of new De Tomaso and aftermarket parts covering all rubber, clips, knobs, switches, gaskets, bushings, joints, new 17” Campy clones with Michelin, stainless exhaust, new steering rack, new ceramic coated headers, new radiator, stainless tubing, new windshield, AC front installation kit, too much to list… all receipts, binders with technical info, brochures, memorabilia, Marti Report, a rebuilt matching number engine including dyno pull sheets and a rebuilt and polished transaxle done by RBT with tall gearing. The Pantera collected dust since 2001 before the owner decided to sell it. Coming originally from the West coast, the car had survived in a decent state but will undergo a full restoration which has already started, replacing the typical metal components such as front valance and rocker panels to prevent any work to be done over the many years to come I am planning on keeping it. Also sheet metal is harder and harder to find, so I do it now. #4164 is scheduled to receive an Acid dip in June to remove all rust, paint, undercoat and to reveal all **** done to the car by the previous owners.



Stay tuned.

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Last edited by #4164
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A thank you to the forum for the warm welcome. I am certain that I will have many questions along the way. The first step for me was to inventory all parts, inspect them, bag and label them and determine if there is anything else that need to buy besides what came with the car that may become critical, no longer available etc. The second step was to decide on where to start on the Pantera. I decided that it was the front end. Thirdly what tools I need to do a decent job. After an initial inspection of the condition of the front I ordered the valance and radiator support from Jimmy Woods in the UK and the support wall and brackets from Hall. The old valance was surgically removed and the new one buttwelded in.  Here are the first pictures of an hobbyist attempt to rescue this beauty.



To be continued...



Stephan

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  • Radiator support removed
  • New radiator support spot welded #1
  • New radiator support spot welded #2
  • New radiator support spot welded #3
  • New valance fitted #1
  • New valance with grill welded back in
  • Radiator support bracket spot welded
  • Radiator support rear wall spot welded

Doing my best. Spent some money on a real good spot welder and it was worth it. The results are presentable (for a hobbyist ). Currently finishing the valance welds and trimming in the outer edges to make them look like factory. Also massaging the fitment of the chrome surround of the front grille and bumperettes before dropping parts off at the plating company in the near future. All new parts welded in have drain holes in the highest and lowest areas to assure that the acid gets out and can be neutralized, later new paint and preservatives will go in. Hopping over to removing the outer rocker panels next. Let's find out what is lurking behind those panels. I am expecting the usual suspects.



To be continued...

Thought I would share one of my missteps on the valance.

I installed a Ron Davis radiator that lays down forward toward the lights.  I was excited to start driving the car and working the bugs out, so I didn't install the chrome grill.  I considered that a "detail" item that I would come back and finish later.  Turns out you need the radiator out or at least a vertical radiator to get to the small nuts that hold the grill in place.

At this point I have the grill on with aluminum zip ties until I have the patience to remove the radiator or fabricate a small tool to hold the 6-8mm nuts in place from the inside.

John

#3590

...I didn't like the 'Sheet-Metal Screws' holding the Front Grill on...So I went to 10-24 Steel Nutserts with 10-24 Stainless Oval-Head Phillips MACHINE Screws. Do NOT use 10-32 Fine threads, as Debris will Cause them to Gaull-up and jam.

The Nutsert head is too small for the Pantera sheetmetal holes, washers must be used, drilled for perfect fit, and Longer grip for the Nutsert. Or Nutsert with Larger HEAD (Available). Also the Grill holes, usually for a SM Screw, Must be drilled larger with a 'J' Letter drill bitthumbnail [2)thumbnail, or 7mm, for clearance. The OVAL Head screw is more Pleasing to the Eye, that a Flat Head. IMO

See photos, of drilling brass washers for perfect fit. Using Washer both front and rear of sheetmetal, requires a Longer 'GRIP' Nutsert. (Not Availble)

MJ   

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Last edited by marlinjack

Last weekend put some time in to cut open the rocker panels and to check for the all over condition of the internals, A and B pillar, lower edge, frame rails, inner supports etc. As expected, the car is due for a full restoration. I am still happy for what I was able to find. This car has 52 years on the meter and so far no  previous repair attempts could be found. After removing the rockers and washing the rust off with rust remover the initial impression improved. The inner reinforcements are in excellent condition and can be reused. The chemical dip will take care of the surface rust. No holes in the front wheel house and rear frame rails. I'll keep digging.

to be continued...



Stephan

Last edited by #4164

Switching it up between metal work and other tasks that need to be done. I started looking for a reputable upholstery shop near Philadelphia or surrounding areas. My interior was kind of beat up.The dash vinyl was burned, briddle and the gauge pods were sunken in from the heat out west sun many years ago. Also I had the chance and removed the funky light pod between the vents. I decided not to go with the original seats but will keep them just in case I will ever convert the car back to stock. The previous owner removed all interior components years ago and a close inspection revealed that everything needed an overhaul. I was super lucky when I contacted J&J Interiors in Bristol PA, only 10 miles from home. The owner Jim had an opening before a big boat interior project and I needed to drop off all interior pieces that needed new covering within one week. Everything had to be clean and repaired, ready for leather. The dash was a mess, the aluminum rivets were all corroded to a point that the brackets broke off and the glove box hardware needed some serious help including to close up a huge cutout for many radio types over the decades. A variety of switches were added for god knows what, all removed and closed up. Here are the humble beginnings of a new interior.

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I found some really nice Recaro seats. NOS, issued for Ford in 1989 and carrying the embroidery of Emerson Fittipaldi the Formula 1 driver. Those were exclusively used in the limited Fittipladi Ford Mustang "Equipe Edition".  The Suede and smooth leater setup of the seats will be tranfered to the entire interior. Also a picture of the finished center console with Suede on the gauge panel. Will post more pictures of the remaining interior pieces shortly.

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  • Fittipaldi Recaro Seats #1
  • Fittipaldi Recaro Seats #3
  • Fittipaldi Recaro Seats #4
  • Fittipaldi Recaro Seats #5
  • Finished center console
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Today I started on the rocker panel on the driver side. Good old elbow grease, hammer and dollies to transform the Hall rockers into factory looking versions. So far so good, took a few hours to reproduce the compound shape from the original rocker and to add the drain divots. Next step is to shape the end pieces as original.



To be continued.

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Thank you Rene,

I appreciate the compliment. The interior wasn't exactly cheap but a Pantera is worth it.



Today I pre-fitted the passenger side rocker, again only held in place by sheet metal screws. I cannot ask for a better fit, especially from a handmade part. Gaps turned out really nice on both sides. Time to heat up the spot welder...

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  • Passenger side rocker pre fitting

Thank you Garth,

I am trying my best to preserve this Pantera but I am not a professional crafts man. Just a hobbyist that can hold a screwdriver without getting injured. Had a few rodeos in life with cars and motorcycles, many lessons learned, and the right tools acquired over the years. Here are some projects that I finished prior of the Pantera.

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  • Superlite SLC
  • 1972 Kawasaki H2
  • 1963 Corvette FI
@#4164 posted:

Thank you Rene,

I appreciate the compliment. The interior wasn't exactly cheap but a Pantera is worth it.



Today I pre-fitted the passenger side rocker, again only held in place by sheet metal screws. I cannot ask for a better fit, especially from a handmade part. Gaps turned out really nice on both sides. Time to heat up the spot welder...

I did pretty much the same thing on mine a few years ago and it was finally finished a few weeks ago.

Last edited by rene4406

Today, 4164 was bolted onto its body cart, strapped onto a trailer and hauled across the state where it will receive its chemical dip over the next few weeks.  I was on a six-month waiting list.

I have added a video link for the place which does the job. They finished another 1972 not too long ago.

Chemical Dipping a 1972 De Tomaso Pantera to remove all the paint and rust (youtube.com)

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The time has come to put #4164 into E-coating (electrophoretic deposition). This will preserve the car especially in areas that are hollow and inaccessible. The chemical dip revealed only very minor rust areas and needed rework, which will be addressed when the car has returned home. Luckily no evidence of any accidents or panel replacements. A good feeling that there were no surprises waiting for me under that paint and the car has such excellent substance.

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  • E-Coat prep #1
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#4164 is back home after its 2 1/2-month journey from Pittsburgh to Indiana and back to Yardley, PA. I started to take a close look at what the acid had left me. And while rust free, there is now no hiding from reality. #4164 survived the treatment well. For a 52-year-old unrestored vehicle, not bad at all. Floors, front trunk, S - braces, frame rails, roof, all there and don't need to be touched. Some areas with pitting and material loss which needs addressing, but again, could be much worse. The leaded areas on the car are in really bad shape and it became clear why Panteras cracking in certain areas. The factory lead was found fatigued and had partially delaminated from the body.  I found one thing that needed to be taken care of first. The rear crossmember had seen better times as on so many other Panteras. Crushed from using it as a jack point. Some really talented mechanic masked the damage up by welding a facia plate over it to hide it. Here are the pictures of the required repairs. Back to factory appearance using 16 gauge sheet metal, MIG & spot welder and original drain hole locations.

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After being done repairing the rear cross member, I took a closer look at my rear shock towers. Knowing this is a rust prone area on many Panteras, I don't want any surprises later on. Looking into the inside, material loss from corrosion is visible. It may not be much, but it made me drill some holes into the shock towers to measure some material thicknesses. I came to the conclusion that I am unwilling to take any risks and started cutting out the driver side first. I replaced the outside wall of the frame rail and spotwelded new material back in including corrosion protection, then made the replacement part, dimensionally and in appearance identical to the original with the addition of some drain holes. I almost fell off the chair when I was told those parts are $500 per side at Hall.  It took a moment to make the driver side, it's my first but it perfectly fits and full 16-gauge material with full strength is back where it belongs. The passenger side will much faster. Material cost $30 for both sides from Lowes. Currently only tacked on, this is still work in progress and there will be additional posts along the way...

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Thank you for your interest. The tools required are not very involved. You need a hammer and dolly kit, a brake that can handle up to 16 - gauge steel, real good welding equipment and a curve metal shear. Patience and expect to fail before you succeed. Practice on waste material and work with thin gauge metal or paper templates.

Here is the finished driver side shock tower. Completely welded in as factory. When painted, the repair should be invisible.

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Last edited by #4164

Today I was able to finish the passenger side rear shock tower. It is as good as new. I find it amazing as I am gaining more and more experience, how much faster I can do things. The driver side took me almost two days while this side was done under 8 hours including making the replacement part.

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Last edited by #4164

Hi there,

These are MIG welds using C25 Argon-Co2 gas. It requires no purging to get full penetration. Important is that you are welding healthy material. I have decent welding equipment, you just set the wire size (I am using 0.023, 0.03, 0.035" depending on material thickness), metal type and material thickness and you get a base line. You tweak from there and will get a feel and hearing for a good weld after some time. Some welders are self-learning these days.

Good luck with your project.

Last edited by #4164

Today I finished the driver side quarter window frame. The chemical treatment left nothing hidden. Strangely enough, nothing bad below. This may be the result of a clogged drain and trapped moisture. Here are before and after pictures. Everything test fitted with rubber and trim, including a drain hole as original.

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I visited Ron McCall the other week and picked my set of Group 4 flares. Ron acquired those from Patrick Hals who owned "Candy". It was the last set, and I consider myself lucky to own a piece of authentic Group 4 racing history. Today I took a break from the rust repairs started on the right rear with the group 4 conversion. The initial fitment of the flares went well. Will post more pictures as I fit the others and start cutting the fenders.

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Finally, I was able to finish the flares. My OCD took control of me, and I did not like the way they were laying on the fenders and quarter panels. After some massaging , they are fitting perfectly now, the flanges making now full contact with the metal and any stress was removed from the fiberglass to prevent cracking in the long run. I made sure that the material thickness is uniform on the flanges, and everything is marked for cutting. In the pictures you can see the original mounting pattern used on the " Candy Group 4", which I did not use.

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Last edited by #4164

I think you have to cut the fronts or they will rub badly with a 10" rim - they will hit in the front corners.  The backs you can probably get away with but you should really have the car sitting on the final wheel tire combo to determine your ride height, etc.  I found that all out the hard way by doing that last.  What wheel diameter are you planning to use?

All metal repairs and modifications have been completed. I removed the original heating pipes from the center tunnel and most of the factory metal strips that wraparound the harness or AC tubing. I'll replace everything with modern materials. Everything looks very clean. Just started with the seam sealer applications... 4164 is scheduled to leave for the body shop in two weeks.

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Looks amazing!! love to see the original yellow showing through!   What seam sealer are you using?  For the heater lines, what will you be using to go through the tunnel?

Hi there,

I used SEM 2 in 1 seam sealer based on what my body shop owner recommended. It is a spray on application which leaves a nice textured surface. Regarding the routing through the center tunnel. A slot was added towards the engine bay as shown in the picture. It was tricky to cut on the inside wall since it is a channel tube. A cover plate will be added later for aesthetics and rigidity with grommets, fittings or bungs. It will accommodate all new 10 AN heating hoses, AC hoses, brake and clutch hydraulic lines, etc. nothing but the coolant pipes will run underneath the car.

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Last edited by #4164

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