I'll go with 15 x 14 in the rear and 15 x 10, dimensionally identical to the Group 4 Campagnolo wheels. Should be plenty of room.
On Pirelli's or race rubber? The 345 will fit without cutting but any taller race rubber will not. Been there, done that.
Race rubber, but I'll get an additional set of outer rear barrels in the event I'll go Pirelli's to convert to 13" width. My wheels will be 3- piece.
Sounds like you have it covered. I had 13" Gotti's on mine.
Very nice work,like it never even happened! Servpro?
definitely taking it to the next level!
@#4164 posted:Race rubber, but I'll get an additional set of outer rear barrels in the event I'll go Pirelli's to convert to 13" width. My wheels will be 3- piece.
4164, what manufacturer are you working with to create the 3-piece 15" diameter wheels?
Mike
If you are making metal repairs after ecoating, how are you treating the new metal that has been added?
very inspiring work! Thanks again for sharing
The areas where the E-coating was broken such as frame rail repair, the rear shock mounts and rear transmission cross member will be internally sealed with a frame sealer. All other repairs are on the exterior and the E-coat will be sanded off prior bodywork anyway.
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All metal repairs and modifications have been completed. I removed the original heating pipes from the center tunnel and most of the factory metal strips that wraparound the harness or AC tubing. I'll replace everything with modern materials. Everything looks very clean. Just started with the seam sealer applications... 4164 is scheduled to leave for the body shop in two weeks.
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How did you remove the center tunnel heating tubes?
so all the ecoat has to be removed prior to the body work being completed?
Very clean. Nicely done!
Looks amazing!! love to see the original yellow showing through! What seam sealer are you using? For the heater lines, what will you be using to go through the tunnel?
very impressive work!
- @with regards posted:
Looks amazing!! love to see the original yellow showing through! What seam sealer are you using? For the heater lines, what will you be using to go through the tunnel?
Hi there,
I used SEM 2 in 1 seam sealer based on what my body shop owner recommended. It is a spray on application which leaves a nice textured surface. Regarding the routing through the center tunnel. A slot was added towards the engine bay as shown in the picture. It was tricky to cut on the inside wall since it is a channel tube. A cover plate will be added later for aesthetics and rigidity with grommets, fittings or bungs. It will accommodate all new 10 AN heating hoses, AC hoses, brake and clutch hydraulic lines, etc. nothing but the coolant pipes will run underneath the car.
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Thanks, I'm at that point where it's all open and deciding how much to improve/deviate from original design.. look forward to seeing it all go back together, as I'm sure you are!!
You are putting the heater pipes back in the tunnel? Surprising to me because it heats up the interior rather remarkably!
I went this way…
complete thread for heating and A/C:
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I suppose if there is a valve that shuts off the heating completely, it may not matter? extra heating in the winter..
@with regards posted:I suppose if there is a valve that shuts off the heating completely, it may not matter? extra heating in the winter..
Unless you install shutoff valves in the engine compartment (which I installed as well for safety reasons) , the incoming pipe will heat up to the valve at the heater core located next to your gas pedal… this metal pipe is firmly connected to the tunnel in the center and it heats the tunnel up.., there is no air flowing.. just stagnant heat…
here in California, it does make a difference if your small cabin has an additional heat source…
Or you could add some bungs in your front radiator pipes and bring the heater water from the front firewall, see picture of my pipes. I also added drain bungs.
My work in progress for my A/C hoses and some wires through the tunnel, not behind the passenger seat.
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Nice work and good idea.
Here is something I saved on heater tubes and shutoff valves. There is another good reason to have the valves, if the heater core springs a leak its know to fog up the inside glass and windshield making impossible to see. 
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@tomsealbeach posted:Here is something I saved on heater tubes and shutoff valves. There is another good reason to have the valves, if the heater core springs a leak its know to fog up the inside glass and windshield making impossible to see.
The drawback is you have to crawl underneath to turn them on and off… And what usually happens it just gets forgotten to do it frequently to make it work properly. that’s why I went to electric… I had those Home Depot shut off valves on my car when I bought it…
Agreed. Electric is a very nice option. I'm in SoCal and in Arizona so heater is not that big of a deal for me. Did you post pictures of the electric valves you used? Maybe I didn't go back far enough in this thread?
@tomsealbeach posted:Agreed. Electric is a very nice option. I'm in SoCal and in Arizona so heater is not that big of a deal for me. Did you post pictures of the electric valves you used? Maybe I didn't go back far enough in this thread?
It’s in there