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21 replies

Turn signal switch info sharing

robborrusorobborrusoMember
Hi guys,
I just did a search on turn switches, but didn't really come up with much. So, hopefully I'm not starting an already threaded topic....but considering how hard they are to find (and expensive)..thought it'd be worth us capturing some of this info.

Here's what got me going on this today....I just snagged a turn switch off of E-bay which is part number 70EB-13335-A1A. The actual part on my car is 70EB-13335-A1D. To my experience the last suffix number of Ford part numbers is design rev level. So, this part should be the right part, just a couple of design revs previous.

So..here are some questions for us to try and capture. If you have more, drop em in.

1) Anyone have any insight into the part numbers for these switches? (i.e. decoder ring) My knowledge would break it down as 70 = 1970, EB = veh platform info, 13335 = base part number, A1A = design rev level. However, this is based on my North American Ford knowledge from dealing with Ford for a couple of decades, and am merely assuming it's the same for EU Ford parts.
2) Any info about design rev level changes (what changed)?
3) Interchangeability info
4) What is the OE installed part? I've known it to be the 70EB-13335-A1A. Confirmation anyone??
5)Are rebuild kits available?
6)
7)
8)

Thanks....
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bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
Rob, current knowledge says the entire turn signal assembly switch is a single part. Not sure if the wide-body '80-up cars used the same assembly. What breaks inside is the turn signal cancel-cam and another nylon piece associated with it. No known interchanges. DeTomaso had his own p.n system which he continued to use while Ford rigged up their own. All the numbers are now gone from Ford databases. DeTomaso's own system did not follow Ford's p/n rationale.
sjdennissjdennisMember
Hi All,
Bringing up an old thread here. My "new to me" has an inconsistent performing signal switch. Most of the time I have to hold the stalk up or down to keep the flashers going. Other times it surprises me and works fine. I don't feel any "indents" either, but this may be normal for these cars.

I found Precision Performance is selling a "factory replacement" switch. Any feedback on this vendor or this switch?

I also googled the part number from Rob's car and found a vendor called motomobil that has one with that part number that its from a Ford Escort. 175 Euros.

Could not find one on the Wilkinson site. Perhaps they sold out.

Is SoBill still doing the rebuild?

Thanks for your input,

Dennis

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lf-tp2511lf-tp2511Member
quote:
Any feedback on this vendor or this switch?

Wilkinson had reproductions of the original made a few years ago. I am sure his repro is what all vendors are now selling.

Wilkinson still lists them on his website.

Not sure who has the lowest pricing. As always, ask your chosen vendor if they HAVE IT ON THEIR SHELVES ready to pack and ship. If not, then your order is not just dependent on them receiving your payment, it is also dependent on that vendor actually tending to business and obtaining one so it can be shipped to you. Been there. Done that. But if you are not in any hurry......

Larry

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lf-tp2511lf-tp2511Member
quote:
I also googled the part number from Rob's car and found a vendor called motomobil that has one with that part number that its from a Ford Escort. 175 Euros.


First generation Escorts and Capris used the (I think) same unit.

But later versions, while similar, are not the same.

IF the European seller's unit is an exact part number match, down to all the letters, it probably will work.

But why go that route when ordering from a Pantera vendor will surely deliver the correct version?

Larry
alasorsaalasorsaMember
Dennis it's real easy to get out. Here are the instructions Bill Taylor sent.

"Go to a hardware store and get two 8 x 1.25 mm x 40 mm (about 1 ½ inch) bolts. Longer is

better. Do not try this without the 8 x 1.25 mm bolts. Remove one of the steering column

two rear clamp bolts completely. Screw one of the new long bolts into the hole where you

removed the first regular bolt. Remove the second rear bolt. Screw the second long bolt

into the second hole. Remove the remaining two front bolts (mine are Allen head) and drop

the column down. The long bolts will support the column, but more important, they will

align the column clamp holes when you put the whole thing back in place with only two

hands and limited tolerance for frustration. You will thank me for this method, believe me.

Remove the screws holding the switch cover in place. Remove the screws holding the

switch clamp in place. Unplug the switch harness. Put the various bolts, screws, and the

cover in a baggie. You can drive the car without the switch but you will have no

headlights, turn signals, or horn."

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