Used ZF found

The only thing you will see by pulling the bottom cover is the ring and pinion gear. However it is important to do that inspection. Check carefully for damage and/or pitting. If the gears look good I think the market value of the ZF would be around $3,500.00 to $5000 However if you see damage and/or pitting the rebuild bill adds up fast. I had to buy a used ring gear for my ZF rebuild and it cost me $1,600 just for the gear.

Looks like you have the basics down as far as inspection. If the ZF checks out ok and you buy it plan on spending $2,000.00 to 3,000.00 on the rebuild and safety wiring of the ring bolts if there are no other major problems once the ZF is disassembled.

On a side note I know a few people that have spare ZF transaxles and none have needed them. They are a really reliable transaxle if maintained. The used prices are high because of all the kit car guys buying them up.

Garvino, as Mark said- all you'll know after pulling the bottom cover is whether the R & P are unchipped and safety-wired or not. Humans are not strong enough to check R & P wear by hand on an assembled ZF, but any rust showing on gears may mean the bearings will need changing. A little surface rust on gears is unimportant but ANY rust on ball bearings is reason to change them. Three of the 4 bearings potentially involved are std units- not expensive, as are the side seals (likely where the lube drip is) and can be done at home. I suggest you get a ZF Factory manual ASAP (the POCA Store, P.I and most club Chapters stock them) if you haven't already. Working on these units without a manual is like driving fast while blind. Even just removing the bottom cover for inspection, then reassembling can be done wrong in at least 2 ways. I also note that a professionally rebuilt ZF is currently available for $5500.

Today I took a road trip to look at the used transaxle I ran across. I took all my tools, rags, etc. to take the bottom inspection cover off and I, unfortunately, forgot my camera.

When I removed the oil plug I found some metal pieces on the magnet. The oil smelled fine and was pretty clean but the metal pieces concerned me. I brought home the metal pieces so I could take photos of them (attached). Are these possibly synchro teeth?

When I took the bottom inspection cover off I found that the pinion teeth were chipped at the closet point where it sticks through the housing (see attached photo- I’ve circled the area where they were chipped – this is not a photo of the actual pinion).

I was very careful removing the cover and made sure not to loose any of the shims/washers off the long tensions bolts that go through the bottom inspection cover. I, however, found a small shim/washer that looks like one of the tension bolt shims/washers in the case (I possible could have dropped it in there – but I don’t think so since I was so careful). I also found a few more metal pieces.

The teeth on the ring gear looked good as did the rest of gears on the pinion (except were they are chipped near the housing). These chips appear to be very minor but still a concern. The gears also did not appear to have any rust, etc. Also there was no safety wiring on the ring gear.

I turned the shaft around numerous times and did not see where these chipped areas on the pinion would have ever even come from. The area of the pinion teeth that is chipped is not even close to touching any area of the ring gear teeth. Also the metal pieces on the drain plug appear bigger than the pieces chipped off the pinion gear.

I started wondering if the previous owner had dropped the small shim/washer in the case when he removed the bottom inspection plate in the past, ran the unit, and maybe it ground around in there. However, the pieces of metal on the drain plug could have potentially caused the damage. I did notice the bottom inspection plate had a cork gasket that looked homemade, making me think it had been opened before.

I tried to turn the main shaft and shift gears in the unit but could not. I noticed that reverse light switch was missing and that there appeared to be a rag inside the hole. I unbolted the selector cover and did find a rag stuffed inside and noticed the housing was jammed plum full of grease. This grease was similar to wheel bearing grease. Is this normal? With the selector cover off I could then shift the unit into a few gears but I don’t think I could get through them all.

I am looking for guidance or advice on purchasing this as a spare (possible future rebuild) or for parts. My transaxle case has had an area welded where it was previously cracked and I thought this may be an opportunity to get a replacement case.

I know this transaxle is not worth as much as I originally thought but now am not sure what price to look at. I am also looking for any other ideas on why the pinion gear would be chipped in that area. Any and all your help and advice is much appreciated as always. Thanks and sorry for being so long winded.

Thats interesting findings you have. I'm thinking the washer couldn't chip the teeth off the pinion gear, and if it did you probably wouldn't have been able to tell it was a washer.

Thats just my opinion and is not really worth much.

I would use your information that you have discovered. Work the fact that a rebuild could set you back $4,000.00 to $5,000.00 and work a killer deal like $1,000 to $2,000 for the spare trans.

Consider Mike Mayberry has a transaxle for sale on here for $5500, fully rebilut, zero miles. IMO that is not a one off they are around for that order of price at present.

By the time you get this transaxle, ship it to someone who can repair it etc. etc. is it really worth the hassle and risk factor. It could easily set you back $5K in rebuild cost, especially if a new R&P is required as welll as general rebuild. Personally I'd keep looking.

Julian

quote:

Personally I'd keep looking.

I agree.

It's impossible to tell where those chunks came from without disassembling the ZF. They may have come from one gear or from several.

John

If the price is right you can't go wrong even if it's just for parts.

I had bought one for a grand. The rebuild was about 2,000.00 and polishing was $1,000.00.
So I ended up with a fresh RBT rebuilt and polished trans and bell housing under $4,000.00 maybe I was lucky, but with the original investment of only $1,000.00 It was a win win from the start. It would of been a win even if I had bought it for $3,000.00 but the risk would have just been higher if something serious was wrong with the core.

The trans before rebuild did have most of the ring gear bolts sheared off and a crack in the bottom cover that was repairable from the bolt heads. I used that information for bargaining a good deal with the fear of a possible $5,000.00 rebuild cost.

Mark, Julian, and John - thanks for all the input. I think I’m going to try and get the spare transaxle through a trade.

I have some stuff to barter with that the guy potentially wants. Fortunately, I’m not into the stuff for very much, which will make my cost pretty low.

I’ll let you know if I get a deal put together and I’ll try to get some more pictures when I take another road trip. It may be a couple weeks before I head that way so hopefully he still has it when I get there.

Thanks again.

I finally made it back this week to pick up the used ZF transaxle I located - the one with the teeth in the oil. Interestingly, I also acquired another spare ZF case with some miscellaneous parts during the transaction.

It will be interesting to see what the complete transaxle takes to get up and running. I appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions before my purchase. Thanks again.