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I have the Ford engine manual for that year. So if the vacuum line schematic is in the manual, I have it. But before I go hunting for it, scanning it, etc, I'd like to recommend this. It works better than the factory plumbing which was purely inspired by tail pipe emissions regulations, not optimum engine performance.

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  • Vacuum_line_schematic
Last edited by George P
The 1972 motor only has 2 systems controlled by vacuum

(1) the distributor
(2) the heated air for the air cleaner assembly

In regards to the distributor.

I suppose you are aware the Pantera underwent constant detail changes during its early production (when DeTomaso was building them for Ford). One of the very early on-going changes was a temperature controlled switch, installed in the coolant system, that controlled distributor vacuum and the idle solenoid. The electric ported vacuum switch (aka the PVS valve) was both an electrical switch and a vacuum switch.

I'm not sure whether or not the Pantera you are working on is equipped with that switch. If it is, it is a notorious source of trouble that should not be utilized. I am sincere in advocating for the distributor controls to be simplified as indicated in the drawing in my last post.

In regards to the air cleaner controls

The diagram below will do the trick

-G

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  • Air_Cleaner_Controls
quote:
Originally posted by snaponbob:
LOTS more hoses came off of it !!!!!


The 1972 Ford manual does not have an all inclusive diagram for the vacuum hoses, like they provided in 1973. It would not reflect the installation of the DeTomaso PVS valve anyway. The orange Pantera parts manual has a diagram for the 1974 vacuum hoses, but I have doubts about its accuracy. Neither the Pantera Technical Information book nor the Pantera Service Highlights book have a vacuum hose diagram.

Ford designed the "IMCO" distributor controls to retard the motor's timing at idle to reduce hydrocarbon emissions and NOx emissions; but the controls allowed the timing to advance if the motor began to overheat. DeTomaso's PVS valve replaced Ford's vacuum control valve, it actually slowed the engine speed if the motor began to overheat. There's another vacuum valve in there called a "deceleration valve" which was also designed to reduce hydrocarbons. None of these things are necessary, or desirable. The engine shall run better without them.

If the Pantera you are working on is a 1972-1/2 L model, then it will have a 1973 Q code motor with exhaust gas recirculation. There shall be a plate between the carb & the intake manifold, with a diaphragm actuator hanging off the back. That diaphragm would be connected to ported vacuum, just like the distributor. But I don't recommend hooking up the EGR, leave it disconnected, or better yet, remove it altogether.

The only other vacuum connections are the large hoses for the PCV system, and the power brake booster.
LOTS of great help. This is a March 1972 production car.

I know for a fact that the carb had been off once before. There is no plate under the carb at this time. I'll print the above diagrams and text, and take it to the car. Simpler is better. Plugs are out as I will be spinning the engine to assure oil pressure before I attempt to start it. After sitting since 1990, I want to be sure not to hurt the engine. Once I have pressure, I'll work out the vacuum lines.
quote:
Originally posted by Cowboy from Hell:
The 1972 motor only has 2 systems controlled by vacuum

(1) the distributor
(2) the heated air for the air cleaner assembly

In regards to the distributor.

I suppose you are aware the Pantera underwent constant detail changes during its early production (when DeTomaso was building them for Ford). One of the very early on-going changes was a temperature controlled switch, installed in the coolant system, that controlled distributor vacuum and the idle solenoid. The electric ported vacuum switch (aka the PVS valve) was both an electrical switch and a vacuum switch.

I'm not sure whether or not the Pantera you are working on is equipped with that switch. If it is, it is a notorious source of trouble that should not be utilized. I am sincere in advocating for the distributor controls to be simplified as indicated in the drawing in my last post.

In regards to the air cleaner controls

The diagram below will do the trick

-G


The engine I am working on has a vacuum block below the distributor with three ports. It does NOT have electrical connectors. One hose goes to a T, another to the vacuum advance in the dizzie, and the third goes somewhere else (I forget where for the moment). Then there are plenty of spots on the back of the engine for vacuum lines. I REALLY screwed up by not taking a picture when I tore things apart.
The blue gizmo in the back of the carburetor needs manifold vacuum. That's a de-choking gizmo, officially called a "choke vacuum control assembly", it was installed to achieve "staged" choking. If you're keeping the Motorcraft carb, then you need to keep that gizmo, I suppose. The guys in Dearborn & Detroit were grappling to deal with emissions regulations, which were tightening on a yearly basis, and were enforced upon them with insufficient warning, and without enough time to respond. It was a very dysfunctional situation.

The other blue gizmo, near the twist cap on the valve cover, that's a decel valve. Its part of the distributor controls. It reduces hydrocarbon emissions when you let your foot off the gas pedal (deceleration). Its most likely non-functional considering its age. My advice is to make it disappear.

FYI: when California instituted vehicle emissions equipment inspections and tail pipe emissions testing in the mid 1970s, I made a lot of money helping people comply (side job).

-G
CfH, thanks for the ongoing help. I will follow your advice on the decel valve. As for the CVCA, can I just use the metal line from under the carb as the vacuum source, and NOT use that T as seen in the photo. With those two components addressed, everything else just seems to be vacuum lines to the stock air cleaner points. BTW, the car is 100% as delivered, and the owner wants it that way. (Exceptions are now upgraded cooling system and bigger alternator and BFG Radial TAs as $2000+ for Cocker Michelins were NOT an option.)
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