Your problem bit me as well. I was figuring I could get by with the hoses I replaced 22 years ago since they had 0 miles and 0 sun exposure. In the end, though, your experience points out that it really is dumb not to do all the hoses and tubes preemptively before the car ever hits the road.
So true!!!
here is my solution
2 stainless steel tubes, 5/8, one tube 61”, other 63” to stagger fittings, one tube has 90 degree bend the other two 45 degree bends for additional adjustment.. two straight AN fittings in the back, two 90 degree fittings in the front. I was able to use the original hoses (just a few weeks old) in the back, new hoses in the front.. (90 degree turn from the Heater Core, straight hose off the shut off valve) The new hoses inside go towards the passenger footwell, Follow the air conditioner hoses and then go through the “firewall”
one dogleg (1/2”) in both tubes to clear the handbrake perfectly!
1 day thinking
2 days work
tomorrow Bleeding the cooling system and check again…✌️
looks like the inside of the belly of the Exxon Valdez… 🤣
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Don’t run aground against the rocks!!!
@rocky posted:Don’t run aground against the rocks!!!
I’m going to modify the bottom of the car…
there will be a thread…
Filled the cooling system with water And antifreeze today… Opened the heater valve on the dashboard as well as the electric shut-off valves… car jacked up in the air - ass high And going through the motions of opening valves, squeezing and filling up again, but it was unable to fire up the engine because the exit was blocked off the shop so I moved on to the Powersteering…
Tomorrow is my little girl’s birthday, so I’m gonna stay home To witness my little girl, blowing out candles on her cake, which have now double digits in her age 🥲
they grow up so fast…
more on Monday 👍
Happy birthday to your little girl!
Yes, looks the same- that should work… you do need to flare the ends AFTER you put the barrel and the throw over nuts on for the AN fittings on it.. lol
@LeMans850i posted:… car jacked up in the air - ass high
You don't need to do that. Use a vacuum filling device instead. There won't be any air bubbles in the system. It's also a good device to use, to check for leaks. Before you put coolant in the system, pull a vacuum and leave it for a few hours or even overnight. If the vacuum drops, you have a leak.
I use an OEMTools 27066 Coolant System Refiller Kit. Less than $100 on Amazon and it works great.
I also endorse the vacuum cooling system tool. I converted last year and will never go back to the old-fashioned gymnastics necessary to remove air.
on a similar note, I am a veteran convert to a pressure bleeder tool, I find the one by Motive to be just fine. It takes longer to lay out the towels and prepare the pressure bleeder then it does to bleed a clutch line. Doing the brakes is equally quickly accomplished.
Larry
Vacuum tool highly recommended. I was able to find a few hose clamps that would have leaked before I put 5 gallons of coolant in the system.
Makes the coolant fill process very easy.
I got mine at harbor freight for around $80.
John
Here's a tip: when you purchase one of these devices, it's easier to see the gauge if it's oriented vertically instead of horizontally.
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Still “playing “ with my electrical things… one problem that popped up is the blue high beam indicator light is on the moment the lights are on … no matter if high or low beam is selected….
what should be the color on the back of the tachometer light bulb for the high beam light and where does it get power from….
it was already late today when I found the problem…. So I have not checked yet 😵💫
see attached.
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@forestg posted:see attached.
Thank you very much, sir! Tomorrow morning, I will hunt the green black wire down….👍
It comes off of fuse 1 if that helps.
I had a similar experience and it turned out to be missing ground connection on the back of the tachometer housing.
John
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@jwelch68 posted:I had a similar experience and it turned out to be missing ground connection on the back of the tachometer housing.
John
#3590
I’ve go up there tomorrow with the borescope… The back lighting is working when I turn the lights on, so there should be ground on the housing…