OK...so it's time to start contributing some content again... Big Grin

Summer is over...toys are put away...kids are back in school...time to get on a project. This winter I'm going to jump 6001 into the line up, as I'm getting a bit bummed I don't have a Pantera to actually drive. Since 4042 is quite a way away from driving condition, and 6001 is ugly...but very drive-able.....I'm going to do her body work and put her in black primer/sealer. I'll drive her with the flat black look until I finish 4042. Then...I'll put 6001 back into the shop for a proper restoration. So, this will ... I guess..be chapter 1 of 6001 restoration.

She's a solid car, with a stout motor, decent interior, nice set of wheels (though quite weathered and needing love), but the paint is quite bad. She was in grey primer when I purchased her as shown here.









My minion and I have spent a few hours scraping paint off, and have found some interesting prep and paint work along the way..... The prep work was unbelievably terrible. There were areas we were able to separate the paint and primer and peel it off in big sections.









Found a section on the passenger door that had primer which was about an 1/8" thick. I didn't know it was possible to spray it so thick...???


Found one area where there was gloss paint under some body filler... Sweet


I think I've done as much scraping as is feasible at this point. Will start with the DA sander in the morning.
Original Post
Thanks for posting...
I never knew one could use a putty knife to scrap paint off a body!

with the layers of bondo and extreme thick primer that defined the shape. are you going to do the body metal work back to desired finish during this "new paint only"

as for the nice but weathered wheels, I thought I saw three different types, a 10 and a 5 spoke, plus a stamped steel
Well...actually...I didn't either. I had a local sand blast guy at the hose checking out 4042 last summer when I had the surface rust on it. While he was here I asked his opinion about having 6001 soda blasted. He told me I was welcome to bring it to his shop...but he would just scrape it, not blast it. I said "huh"..... and he proceeded to use one of my razor scrapers to demonstrate. I was amazed. As many cars as I have restored..and I never considered this method. I then bought a box of heavy duty single edge blades on Ebay and a heavy duty scraper handle and got to work. I have effectively stripped the car in about ~3 hours of collective time. There are still areas that I will have to go back and do with the sander...but this was way faster and I didn't have to run my compressor for 2 days to make it happen.

Yes, it appears I have uncovered some panel deformations (based on the bondo), and I will address those areas during this chapter of the restoration. Hopefully mostly with a hammer and dolly Wink rather than body filler.

I also have the front wheels. They came with it. I removed them to help with the turning radius moving it around the shop, as the tires are too large and they rub. For ease of getting her on the road for the spring 2016 target, I may just pop the Cobra Rs on her from 4042 (which are now on the fronts).
quote:
and he proceeded to use one of my razor scrapers to demonstrate. I was amazed. As many cars as I have restored..and I never considered this method.

Years ago a good friend asked my opinion on stripping his 58 Vette. After looking at the car and the orange paint job that had been brushed on in the early 70's, I asked him for a razor blade and proceeded to show him how easily it would scrape off. 2 hours later, 99% of the faded chalky flaky orange paint was off, revealing some prior accident damage and poor repair work.
quote:
Originally posted by Rob Borruso:
Found a section on the passenger door that had primer which was about an 1/8" thick. I didn't know it was possible to spray it so thick...???


It MIGHT be "featherfil". That or a generic is what you need to use on fiberglass to get a smooth surface to work with.

It gets used with a hardener and is a mixture of epoxy primer and very fine body filler. Fine enough to spray it on.

This actually looks like body filler to me though?

Some body fender guys like to think of themselves as sculptors and skim coat almost everything.

Don't stand too close in the shop without moving. They might get you also. Wink
Hi Bob,
I host my photos on a godaddy storage site, and use the insert photo button above the text box in the message window (button between the envelope and the film strip). You can line up as many as you like... (or ..at least I haven't hit a limit yet.. Wink ) After I insert the first with the menu bar tool, I actually then copy/paste the text, and just update the photo number to save time.

Yes... I think I shed about 10lbs off of her already. The paint on the hood alone was probably 1/16" thick. The hood actually feels lighter now when I open it. It was so hard that I had to use an angle grinder to get it off. Unlike the scraping process...the hood took me half of Sunday....








Thanks Tim... appreciate it. Let's see....stay tuned Big Grin

Doug, I was thinking the same about the Featherfill. It's the only material I could think of to create such a material build. Who knows.... I do know however that it is not body filler. I thought for sure it had to be, so I carefully looked at the cross section. It's the same material all the way through. Crazy man...crazy... lol

Anyway, got the hood done. Unfortunately it took longer than it should, as my compressor couldn't keep up. Seems I need to rebuild it. Can't really complain I guess, it's given me 13yrs of hard labor. Rebuild kit on order, should be here for the weekend. Only real down side is I will have to spend valuable garage time working on equipment rather then 6001. Mad errrgh
OK, so...compressor rebuilt and back to work. Boy...what a difference it makes to not have to keep stopping for air. With the slow performance degradation over the years, I had forgotten how well this thing worked when it was new...

Spent today taking off more layers of paint and quite a bit of body filler. One of the primer and paint layers had to have bee catalyzed primer and enamel.. I had to use the grinder again to get through them. I really don't like doing that on such this panels, but think I managed it w/o getting into the metal much. The really good news, no rust found yet! However, there is body damage on every panel. I can only speculate that there is no rust because whenever the owner wanted to drive it, he had to first call the body shop and see if it was ready to be picked up yet from the last time he drove it. Therefore...not getting very many miles over the years..

Anyway, I'll take dents over rust any day of the week. There was what seemed to be a lot of unnecessary body filler in many places, so between the 4 layers of paint and a gallon of body filler...she should be a bit lighter when I'm done too.

It appears the color change was done professionally and at the same time the bumpers were shaved. The work after that looks like local bump shop quality work. There was none of the original red found, so the color change guy sanded it clean, even in all the nooks and crannies. All the subsequent paint jobs were black.

I still have to do the lower panels. I want to put her up on the hoist for that to make the work a bit more comfortable on the old back. Next weekend's work...








quote:
Originally posted by Rob Borruso:
Hi Bob,
I host my photos on a godaddy storage site, and use the insert photo button above the text box in the message window (button between the envelope and the film strip). You can line up as many as you like... (or ..at least I haven't hit a limit yet.. Wink ) After I insert the first with the menu bar tool, I actually then copy/paste the text, and just update the photo number to save time.

Yes... I think I shed about 10lbs off of her already. The paint on the hood alone was probably 1/16" thick. The hood actually feels lighter now when I open it. It was so hard that I had to use an angle grinder to get it off. Unlike the scraping process...the hood took me half of Sunday....








Thanks Tim... appreciate it. Let's see....stay tuned Big Grin

Doug, I was thinking the same about the Featherfill. It's the only material I could think of to create such a material build. Who knows.... I do know however that it is not body filler. I thought for sure it had to be, so I carefully looked at the cross section. It's the same material all the way through. Crazy man...crazy... lol

Anyway, got the hood done. Unfortunately it took longer than it should, as my compressor couldn't keep up. Seems I need to rebuild it. Can't really complain I guess, it's given me 13yrs of hard labor. Rebuild kit on order, should be here for the weekend. Only real down side is I will have to spend valuable garage time working on equipment rather then 6001. Mad errrgh


I have never seen paint that thick. Ever.

I suspect that you are going to use a lot of primer/filler and have lots of blocking to do on it.

The point of that process is to take the little ripples out of the sheet metal. You use a lot of primer but most of it gets sanded off in the process.

Use as long of a sanding block as practical and use long strokes and lots of water.

Pay lots of attention to what you are doing and it will come out great.
Hi Speed,
Yes, it is a 69 Mach (no shaker thought). That one they will have to bury me in.. Big Grin You can see the full restoration here Link: 69 Mach build

Hi Doug,
I know...crazy...right. The funny thing was I had to grind out another 1/8" of body filler too. Unreal. I put a straight edge up to the door afterwards. I can see there is a low spot just ahead of the door handle...but don't get why they would have loaded it down the way it was done. I'll spend some time with hammer/dolly and see what I can achieve, but there really was no need for all the fill..??? Anyway, as mentioned, I'll take dents any day of the week over rust. All is good!
quote:
Originally posted by Rob Borruso:
Hi Speed,
Yes, it is a 69 Mach (no shaker thought). That one they will have to bury me in.. Big Grin You can see the full restoration here Link: 69 Mach build

Hi Doug,
I know...crazy...right. The funny thing was I had to grind out another 1/8" of body filler too. Unreal. I put a straight edge up to the door afterwards. I can see there is a low spot just ahead of the door handle...but don't get why they would have loaded it down the way it was done. I'll spend some time with hammer/dolly and see what I can achieve, but there really was no need for all the fill..??? Anyway, as mentioned, I'll take dents any day of the week over rust. All is good!
Hello Rob; Always was a BIG fan of the 1969/70 Mach 1s with/without the shaker hood.

I was bidding on this example...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-F...rksid=p2047675.l2557

But the winning bid was well beyond what I thought the value was.

I own a 1973 Mach 1 CJ, Q code, factory 4 speed, highly optioned that is "1" of "1" according to the Marti report.

Thanks for the link to the 69 Mach 1 rebuild, look forward to reading it in it's entirety!
My, be mindful of the DA, keep it moving.
Strip it all to bare metal, it's the only way.
Be prepared for the next step applying a good epoxy sealer over the metal to prevent surface rust as you move to the next step, getting it straight. How far or how much do you want to spend and what is your finish vision?
quote:
Be prepared for the next step applying a good epoxy sealer over the metal to prevent surface rust as you move to the next step

A simple rub down with phosphoric acid will prevent flash/surface rust for months.

Add Reply

Likes (0)
Post
×
×
×
×