#1905 Part Duex

Headers done, off to Jethot:

nice job gary ... whats the mufflers of choice ???

Ron

Thinking about making my own from scratch!

Very impressive Gary! show us a picture of your pipe bender would you.

Johnny

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny Woods:
Very impressive Gary! show us a picture of your pipe bender would you.

Johnny

For the exhaust or the roll bar? The exhaust is pre-bent then welded. You just cut section by section like a jig saw puzzle:


The roll bar was bent with Harbor Freight pipe bender. Did a darn good job too!:



Remember to put plates under the rollers to keep it from denting the tubing:

AH .... I bought that one too and it didnt work ... but I see you made sleeves to protect it. they also say you have to fill it with sand...but I like your idea. I;m going to try again.

Ron

Ron I was real pleased with my bends. Just scared every time I pulled on the lever. Lot of pressure on those Chinese welds!

There is a limit to the size exhaust I can get through the suspension. The tubes that were on their was a single 1-7/8 and they were bent from suspension contact. I can get 2 much larger tubes over the top. I really did not want to go with 180's through the back.

Gary

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
Gary,

Not trying to be an a** but why are you changing the exhust from running under the car?

Soon to be engine test stand:

Looks great around...question about the engine. What are the bungs on the collectors for.. Fuel injection? Carb, Webbers?

I have a couple bungs further down for O2 sensors but the bungs closer to the heads are for EGT. I am going to run the engine on the test stand with both the Demon 750 and the Webers but if all works well, the Webers are going in the car.

Gary,

What's that funky ZF bellhousing a few pictures up?

Michael

Nice work Gary.
Here is a pic of the engine test stand I am building.
I have had one in the shop for years that I bought comercially but I have not been very happy with it. They made too many design consessions to be able to fit it in a box.
The new one is heavier materials and the engine is better supported. I have had to make it universal because of all the different brands of engines I run on it.
Of course I made sure the Pantera engine fit on it first

Michael, the 400 has the 460 bellhousing bolt pattern. That is a 460 bell housing. Don't ask me where it came from because it does not exist

Brooke, that looks cool! Any pointers?

Pretty basic stuff.
Make sure the mounting structures clear whatever kind of headers you will be running.

Give your self plenty of room at the front of the engine to get to the dist and check timing etc.
The commercial unit I bought was bad for this, the gauge panel sits right on top of the dist and waterpump pulley.

Make sure your engine hoist legs fit under it for positioning the engine. I had to weld riser blocks on the commercial unit.

I made the sections all removable so if I have to tear into a timing set,cam or whatever, the front of the stand can be removed for access to the front of the engine.

I am also welding tie downs on it so it can be transported with a engine on it.

I am setting the fuel system up to be able to use the mech pump on the engine or feed it with a electric pump. Give yourself enough room on the gauge panel for additional gauges if you need them such as egt, boost etc.

I use a Edelbrock AFR meter that I mount in a set of removeable collector adapters. I believe you use a LM-1 so you should be good. I have adapters to bolt on a set of mufflers so I can hear for noises in the engine.

Thats pretty much it. Good luck in your fabbing.

Thanks Brooke. I will try to keep those in mind. I did find the frame is in the way of the hoist but I don't really want to change the layout. I think I will just block it up.

Are you running a radiator?

Brook forgot to tell you my car came from Utah.

Here is a pic of a AMC 401 that a customer brought in mounted on the commercial stand.

I use tap water in a continuous flow to cool the engine. This is done without a thermostat in the engine. I have a shut off valve to meter the volume of water to stabilize the engine temp. I usually run them in at 180 degrees. After running the engine I pull the block plugs to drain the block and fill it with 50/50 antifreeze so no rust forms.

There are + and - to this system. The good is you dont have the bulk of a radiator in the way and have to worry about air locks and trying to maintain temp. The bad is it uses a lot of water in a 30min run in, the possibility of rust and re-removing the water neck to install a stat.

You can see the extensions I made at the rear of the stand to get the motor out of the dash area. You can also see the riser blocks to pick it up for the engine hoist clearance.

Im sure you will come up with something very cool as usual.

What part of Utah did your car come out of?

Salt Lake City.

Here is a before photo:

One more question. Does it move around much on the stand when you run it?