It does not move at all. I never lock the wheels. I think the stability is from using rubber mounts on the front and hanging the rear. This takes up a lot of the vibration.
It does rock when you throttle the engine though.
I bought my car just south of Salt Lake in Draper.
Just got the engine out of the car. The car has been off the dolly for the last couple months while I fab up a dozen different things. All the dust from cutting and grinding has been swept under the car. Now that the engine is out I can set it off the jack stands and back on the dolly; push it out and clean it up.
quote:Originally posted by comp2:
Michael, the 400 has the 460 bellhousing bolt pattern. That is a 460 bell housing. Don't ask me where it came from because it does not exist
Right! Now I remember the post a couple of years back when you were talking about using a 400.
Michael
Did your car at one time have a all aluminum big block in it?
I remember seeing a fancy red wide body Pantera at a show in Park City that had a all Aluminum bigblock in it. I think it also had wood inlays in the door panels.
I know I have either pics or video of the car somewhere. It was the wildest thing ever.
I remember seeing a fancy red wide body Pantera at a show in Park City that had a all Aluminum bigblock in it. I think it also had wood inlays in the door panels.
I know I have either pics or video of the car somewhere. It was the wildest thing ever.
Just a standard cleveland. I know it had webbers on it at one time but the guy kept the webbers on trade in. He made a funky air cleaner box which used the webber air cleaners.
Making the roll bar that extends into the engine bay removable:
Welded up:
Tubed through both, will weld on nuts latter:
1 down, 3 to go!
Welded up:
Tubed through both, will weld on nuts latter:
1 down, 3 to go!
That last application showing the tube notched and fitted to the mount. I was just wondering aren't the bolts in a sheer application??? Just me here thinking...would'nt taking a larger piece of tubing and sliding over the notched sections then passing the bolts through that outer piece be the strongest way to make that joint???
Jeff
Jeff
I have the tubing to do that. I don't know if I will. Once I get the webbers on their I am going to see if there is room for a cross brace.If so it will have plenty of attatch points.
So Gary what method have you fabricated to tie the Roof into the roll cage ... I did mone but have to take some pics.
Ron
Ron
3/16" plate and a short roll tube. It is part of the removable tube in the back. I am looking forward to seeing yours. I just sat down to write to see how yours was coming:
I have an interruption. I just got my dash back from just dashes for my Cutlass. I need to get it back together. Anyone want to help. It's not my favorite job!:
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/ohmy.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/jd.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/ohmy.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/jd.jpg
And there you have it my weak point .... electrical ... wow god bless you on putting the dash back ....
Ron
Ron
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
And there you have it my weak point .... electrical ... wow god bless you on putting the dash back ....
Ron
I am just not in the mood for late model dashes!
I will keep an eye out for your photos. I want to see them.
Posting them now.
Ron
Ron
Got the dash about done on the Oldsmobile so it's time to get back on the engine stand. Got the headers back from jet hot:
Hows it going ??? Havent heard from ya ??
Ron
Ron
Hey Ron,
Going slow right now with some diversions. Building a cam from scratch for a 1902 olds. Wrote a program to profile 2 cams at 10 degree segments.
Also working on a computer program for the engine test stand. I want to read and log a host of parameters including 8 individual O2 locations and 2 O2 locations to help tune the Webbers.
And some other stuff.
If there is one thing I know, time FLIES as you get older!
Going slow right now with some diversions. Building a cam from scratch for a 1902 olds. Wrote a program to profile 2 cams at 10 degree segments.
Also working on a computer program for the engine test stand. I want to read and log a host of parameters including 8 individual O2 locations and 2 O2 locations to help tune the Webbers.
And some other stuff.
If there is one thing I know, time FLIES as you get older!
"Going slow right now with some diversions. "
Wow making a cam ..sounds like high school mechanical drawing ..we did that.
I like the idea of the o2 sensors to tune webers.
ME ? well got a great deal on a Ingersol Rand 5hp compressor ... 1/2 price because I bought another one for a large project ....and finally completed my radiant garage heating piping and bought a instantaneous heater ..just got to install it ..it got too cold very fast here in NY to work and the garage seems colder then outside.
This is my new excuse ?? LOL
Ron
Wow making a cam ..sounds like high school mechanical drawing ..we did that.
I like the idea of the o2 sensors to tune webers.
ME ? well got a great deal on a Ingersol Rand 5hp compressor ... 1/2 price because I bought another one for a large project ....and finally completed my radiant garage heating piping and bought a instantaneous heater ..just got to install it ..it got too cold very fast here in NY to work and the garage seems colder then outside.
This is my new excuse ?? LOL
Ron
The O2 to tune in general, left bank and right bank but the program is displaying individual EGT's for each cylinder. This will be to balance the webbers.
I wish I had the patience when building my shop to have some one put in the radiant heat. I just did not want to wait to get it done.
I wish I had the patience when building my shop to have some one put in the radiant heat. I just did not want to wait to get it done.
Almost done with side trans mount conversion:
