1905 Photos

quote:

Originally posted by jeff6559:

They slapped metal patch panels all over the place and just sculpted the car out of filler.

Just like Coddington and the hot rod guys do.

This is why I like restoring my own cars doing 90% of the work.

Something that was interesting; I knew where all the filler was because of the cracks. There were a dozen areas with lead and not one of them showed any signs through the paint.

Gary,

Great job ... I'm stalled with my BODY at the moment and trying to gather parts, got the steel flairs and I'm planning Lead ( really its a 50/50 lead / Tin ) on the seams for exactly that reason it dont crack .. but mixing a little fiberglass resin in with the body filler help strenghten the filler.

My motor is well under way .. pics will be coming soon .. priority of finshing my shop has to happen before I dig into the car to deep.

I agree I just got wind of a PANTERA owner who spent in excess of 20k on his BODY and its still not done. WHATS DA F#$@ !! I think its time to go back in the BODY Business .LOL

Anyway keep up the good work ..

Ron

Ron, Eastwood has a lead filler and a non lead filler that works the same. Do you know if or how well the non lead filler they make works?

And yes...Photos would be good!

Thru experience the lead on a car is really a 50/50 solder sold in bars at a Plumbing or electrical supply, lead it self will not stick to steel, a little sodlering flux ( NOCORODE brand ) and a cloth made out of JEANS material with a little wax on the cloth .. you will soon be called George Barris ..LOL

Non lead filler I think will very hard to work with with a torch. It means it has less lead and I higher melting point ... the lead is flexible and dosent crack.

As long as you dont eat it ... its the best for long lasting body work ... LOL

Ron

This is their lead free:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.j...519&iProductID=14772

I know the leaded areas in my car showed no signs of paint cracking, shrinking or anything else (unlike the rest of it). Read where the lead free may not flex as well as lead. I am a little skeptical of the lead free.

My experience with lead work has been passed on the me from 3 generations ..thats why I'm CRAZY !! LOL no .. to get a Plumbing lisence in NYC and surrounding it was required 10 years ago.

Save your money : get a pair of jeans cut out a square 6x6 and fold the cut edge in so you have a 21/2 x 21/2 square pad ten drip wax all over both sides.. the wax from a candle on your finger side will prevent your fingers from burning. Next you need NOCORODE flux and an acid brush. Next you need LEAD BASED SOLDER 50/50 bar solder .. look on the NET you'll find it .. let me know if you cant I'll send it to you. Then a half round file. a course one .. we also have a product called SOIL .. its a black compund you paint the surface around the area you dont want solder to stick.

Thn you need a small propane tank ..propane is best because its not as hot as Acetylene. Yo want it cooler and a wide flame.

Heat the sheetmetal to warm and start .. Ive seen your welding .. you can do it ..easy.

If you want EASTWOODS kit buy it but use LEADED SOLDER.

Ron

Oh the wax jeans cloth is your paddle .. use the torch drip solder on the areas enough to fill the area .. then with the cloth and the torch heat and wipe ...heat and wipe .. a little flus on the entire area before you drip solder and sometimes a little as you go to make it stick.

Remember same as welding aluminum ... it has to be clean a virgin steel and the bar solder I file off the outside so there are no contaminents.

A little funny thing .. when wipping lead pipe joints .. you know the lead solder content is perfect when you pour a little circle about 1" and there will be 5 or 6 little dots created on top as it drys .. why I have no idea ..but My Pop taught me this and the TEST INSTRUCTOR looked for it .. LOL

Ron

Thanks Ron, When it comes time it is something I would like to do and probably will. I am going with the lay down radiator, removed the headlight bar. I would also like to fab an aluminum hood from scratch to duct the air from the radiator. I know the gt-40 hoods are not as nice looking but I want to get my air out from under the car.

I would like to see that .. I'm going to alter my steel hood to make a GT40 style .. I like the look and I will be cutting out the head light bar also but I would like to move the fuel tank up front also .. Hmmm speaking of head lights ??
LOL

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
I would like to see that .. I'm going to alter my steel hood to make a GT40 style .. I like the look and I will be cutting out the head light bar also but I would like to move the fuel tank up front also .. Hmmm speaking of head lights ??
LOL

Ron

I struggled with the idea of cutting out the headlight bar. In reality it would be easy to weld a new bar back in but I wanted it gone. I think for headlights I am going with individual electic motors; probably something simple to open and close thim. Still research to do there but it will probably be either an adaptation from another car or my own worm gear limit switch adaptation.

I am going to keep my fuel tank in the original location except I am moving it from the left side to the right side which means new fuel tank fabrication all together. Should be fun. I am doing it because the oil comes out the left side and I want to duct it straight into a fan/air oil cooler with ducting from the left window. The water tanks and oil acumilator will be on the left side as well.

Speaking of the Water tanks .. I seen a cool idea ... for a windsor .. they reversed the intake and maybe the heads .. cant remember but the water neck was in the back .. and the rad hose routed to the left side. I have to find the picture but it was agood idea.

Ron

Oh no Ron it has to be 100% stock. Actually I am always up for new ideas.

Stock whats that ??? 6476 is my black car ... I'm not worried about stock on that car... it seems the nicely done cars bring almost as much on the auction block as the 100% stock muscle cars.

I already came to terms that it is a bottomless pit and dont expect your money back..if you do your ahead of the game.



Ron

There will certainly be some money in it but I hope to do most of my own work. I hope it is more my time then anything.

Gary,

SO what media did they use and were you happy with the job .. did it bring it to bare metal ??

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
Gary,

SO what media did they use and were you happy with the job .. did it bring it to bare metal ??

Ron

Yes and no. Yes in that they removed all the paint and did so without any garnish to the metal. That is what soda is good for. No in that it left some rust. The place that did the MGB did so with glass then etch primmed it. I think I really like the glass as it does get into the metal which is essential to really getting rid of the rust. The glass roughs up the metal just a little which is great as long as you coat it right away.

On the flip side I am doing the final blasting myself which means I know every inch of the car and I don't have to wonder what the metal looked like before some one else primmed it. I could have never gotten the paint off so it served me well. Only problem is cold wet weather has moved in so I don't know when I will be able to resume. I will have to work on other parts till then. I have plenty to fab up anyway. We keep the humidity pretty low in the shop so I don't have to get in too much of a hury.

G

I understand ... I have a guy close to me that can soda blast mine .. so maybe I can aks him to glass bead the rust and welds ?? Or maybe glass only ??? I was also thinking of glass beading it myself .. but as you say the cold is upon us. Maybe it pays to shoot some primer on it quick and touch up the fab'd areas. But I have to say my engine compartment has been sitting bare and no rust has grown yet ... and thats 6 months.

Hey Man good luck and keep up the good work ..

Ron

That's been my mind delema too. These guys were the only blasters I knew so I really didn't have any decisions to make, I just had to deal with it.

If you or he can get it etch primed imediatly I would say glass. If you are going to tackle it a little at a time lime me I would say soda. Suposedly since the soda does not etch the metal the metal will resist rusting better.

My sand blaster could never have removed the paint as they did. I was glad I could find some one who could do it. As I did it I am going over every square inch myself which I like because I know the metal is 100% rust free. I am using por 15 on everything but the body. It says it needs something rough to adhere too. It gives you 3 options. One is brush the rust and go over the rust. I wanted the rust gone. Second option would be to treat it with metal ready acid then wash it off.....So you can wash it into vevery nook and crany and then begin the surface rust right away with etched metal and water? I don't think so. The third was to blast it or sand it. That''s what I did.

If you look here you can see the metal on the right was still shiny from the soda blast. A lot of what you see is some sort or glue or something. Where I sandblasted is lightly rough and clean. I believe being freshly blasted like that anything would stick well!

Like you said, my number one goal is to get it in primmer. I can clean off the primer latter for repairs. As far as what is the best way? Does anyone really know? I think this just worked for me.