The wiring in my only reserve .. I was looking today .. the light bar is cut and gone .. no motors .. I'm going to make a set of fixed head light covers for the head ligths and do the same as you .. romve the front support and cut in to my metal hood and lay down the radiator.. I was a Xmas party tonoght with felow Pantera members and I think I filled the gap .. there was acouple engineers there .. LOL there designing stuff for the war so I think I have nothing to worry about with the electronics.
The fuel cell I want in the front and the battery submerged ..or in the fender well like the cobra .. lets see how motoivated I get ... I got the HALL cage .. and I woudl love to get rid of the consol and mount all the gauges in the dash ..
Ron
Ron
Ron what kind of time frame are you looking at for your restoration. I work slow like a turtle but I never stop. I expect to have metal work and mods done by the fall. Painting fall-next winder and assembly the folloing spring. This would be the earliest. Probably another 1-1/2 to 2 years at my pace.
It will be intersting to follow what we are doing simultainiously.
Gary
It will be intersting to follow what we are doing simultainiously.
Gary
Well I have to say I havent put much thought into time ... my business take priority .. but one of my helpers has expressed much interest in this project and he is helping me for 10.00 per hr.
So I think we are going to try to Media blast it our selves. I can borrow a big compressor and just have to rent the blaster .. got look into if its cost effective this week ..
Oh time ... hey no sooner then a year .. probably as you say spring 2008 is a fair estimate.
It would be cool to follow along with idea's.
Thanks Ron
So I think we are going to try to Media blast it our selves. I can borrow a big compressor and just have to rent the blaster .. got look into if its cost effective this week ..
Oh time ... hey no sooner then a year .. probably as you say spring 2008 is a fair estimate.
It would be cool to follow along with idea's.
Thanks Ron
Ron the sand blaster i am using is from HF:
I watch these guys blast and they have much larger nozzles and move a lot more volume in air and sand. They can blast like thay are hosing something down. I blast like I am trying to clean with a small marker. If some one else han not already knocked off the paint I don't think I could do it with what I have.
I watch these guys blast and they have much larger nozzles and move a lot more volume in air and sand. They can blast like thay are hosing something down. I blast like I am trying to clean with a small marker. If some one else han not already knocked off the paint I don't think I could do it with what I have.
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
My plan is to borrow a trailer rotary compressor and buy an enlcosed bead blaster for small stuff,.
heres where I'm at today
Ron
I look forward to seeing that outfit. I am putting off more blasting till the weather improves. I don't want to blast in the cold then bring it in the warm as the humidity would play havoc. The barn is well insulated, dry with a small dehumid. It is keeping it around 28% at 70 degrees which is not too bad. I will do as much metal and fab work till the weather is better.
Ron how does your car rotate? I calculated and rewelded to the center point and it will rotate freely to any position.
Our Pivot prety close:
All 4 flairs now welded. I have a sun tan on my face now!
More Photos:
Nose was patched over top of steel and bent in more then the photo shows:
Panel shapped on english wheel. Still need a little more welding but shapped better then it looks in photo:
Nose was patched over top of steel and bent in more then the photo shows:
Panel shapped on english wheel. Still need a little more welding but shapped better then it looks in photo:
Valance on order from PrecisionProformance. I am going to replace the hole thing and make the screen removable by welding in nuts and washers to the new screen.
Great work man ..... ok today I spoke to the soda man and he says I should bring the car to his blast shop.. he cant guarrantee the paint and bondo will come off .. he says 150 per hr .. I'm a little sceptical .. so I called the local renta place they have the whole set up for 175 day ... media ?? what do you think about sand .. they say too much dust sillica ??? or maybe I chemical strip and then bring it to soda man.
Ron
Ron
Ron I would love to know how it works out. I would like to know if the unit works better then the small blaster I have been using. Deffinantly worth a rental to see.
If it were me I would start with the underbelly first and not the body. I use plain old sand from the hardware store at $2.50 to $3.50 a bad. One store I use play sand because it's dry. In the other store I get general purpose sand because it's dry. I don't recover the sand because basically I have not been set up to so so. I just shovel it into the rocks and let it sink in. I can use it there anyway.
In the future I would like to catch it with a tarp but I will need to run it through a screen other wise it will clog the tip.
You might do everything except the body and let them soda blast the body (since sand is cheap). I use a paint suit WITH HOOD. I don't have a blasting helmet. You will be shampooing your hair for an hour to get the sand out. I need to try a blasting helmet because I need the layerd screen where you sand a while and pull off a layer. I have been using a clear shield but I found goggles cheaper. ($2.50 at HF) Use for a while then pitch.It odoesn't take long before you cannot see out of them.
don't forget to wear a mask. That stuff is bad for you to breath. The constant iritation in your lungs can cause cancer.
Sure you don't want some one else to do it? Got your tylenol? I ran out of mask. Here I am holding an old aircraft window in fron of my face:
If it were me I would start with the underbelly first and not the body. I use plain old sand from the hardware store at $2.50 to $3.50 a bad. One store I use play sand because it's dry. In the other store I get general purpose sand because it's dry. I don't recover the sand because basically I have not been set up to so so. I just shovel it into the rocks and let it sink in. I can use it there anyway.
In the future I would like to catch it with a tarp but I will need to run it through a screen other wise it will clog the tip.
You might do everything except the body and let them soda blast the body (since sand is cheap). I use a paint suit WITH HOOD. I don't have a blasting helmet. You will be shampooing your hair for an hour to get the sand out. I need to try a blasting helmet because I need the layerd screen where you sand a while and pull off a layer. I have been using a clear shield but I found goggles cheaper. ($2.50 at HF) Use for a while then pitch.It odoesn't take long before you cannot see out of them.
don't forget to wear a mask. That stuff is bad for you to breath. The constant iritation in your lungs can cause cancer.
Sure you don't want some one else to do it? Got your tylenol? I ran out of mask. Here I am holding an old aircraft window in fron of my face:
Well tonight I resorted to using up an old gallon of paint stripper and the doors came down like a dream. I think I'm going to have my 10 perhr helper and I strip it with chemicals the body ... then get into the sand blasting... I think your right ... at the house on the rotissere sand blasting will work best with the big rental compressor and commercial set up then I'm going to buy the glass or soda media and finsh off what the chemical didnt do on the body. I have to say compared to what remember the stripper did a good job. years a go the factory baked emanmel was a bitch to get off ..this took about 3 coats and came down to bare metal.
Yoru right plain old play sand does the trick .. i used to recylce the sand and it cloggs the gun causing more aggrivation then its worth.
R
Yoru right plain old play sand does the trick .. i used to recylce the sand and it cloggs the gun causing more aggrivation then its worth.
R
I thought sandbox sand was not good to use. Also, all the professional places I visited used a pressurized ventilation breathing system, not a mask. That stuff is dangerous and doesn't come out of your lungs.
They used sand on mine and if done properly there is no warping. I seem to remember that the sand won't cut through the undercoating under the car very well. It needed to be rough stripped first. Getting the sand out of the nooks and crannies isn't that bad if the car is on a rotisseri.
They used sand on mine and if done properly there is no warping. I seem to remember that the sand won't cut through the undercoating under the car very well. It needed to be rough stripped first. Getting the sand out of the nooks and crannies isn't that bad if the car is on a rotisseri.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jeff6559:
I thought sandbox sand was not good to use. Also, all the professional places I visited used a pressurized ventilation breathing system, not a mask. That stuff is dangerous and doesn't come out of your lungs.
QUOTE]
I am using a charcole mask. I don't see how that could not be adequate one time use. I think the poeple who do it for a living have to go overboard. OSHA has some real stringent regs n that. If they do it all day long every day they have to have a fresh air supply. Helps geep it out of their eyes as well.
I have used play sand and don't see anything wrong with it.
Ron looks like you know what is available to you and what will work for you.
Gary
I thought sandbox sand was not good to use. Also, all the professional places I visited used a pressurized ventilation breathing system, not a mask. That stuff is dangerous and doesn't come out of your lungs.
QUOTE]
I am using a charcole mask. I don't see how that could not be adequate one time use. I think the poeple who do it for a living have to go overboard. OSHA has some real stringent regs n that. If they do it all day long every day they have to have a fresh air supply. Helps geep it out of their eyes as well.
I have used play sand and don't see anything wrong with it.
Ron looks like you know what is available to you and what will work for you.
Gary
Gary, I've been following your thread and progress on your car. I'm amazed at the time frame and progress that you've been operating within. What amazes me more is the depth of your talent in medal work....outstanding.
I spent 3 months with a heat gun, WD40 and wax/grease remover removing every spec of undercoating from the WHOLE underneath chassis.I do mean every speck. Along the way I was also chemically etching each section with Pickle X 20.Then applied Zero Rust in 3 coats.The same stuff they use in barges and oil rigs.My reasoning was if it could hold up to salt water 24/7 it would suffice in my under carriage.
I too wore a disposiable charcoal mask every step of the way. I changed out the filters very often when I was applying the organic paint of Zero Rust. It worked well for the hobbiest.I agree if its something that you did for a living I would invest in a full suit and hood.
Sand blasting. When it came down to the surface exterior of the body I was a little shocked when the person told me he was going to use a mixture of media and sand.He gave me a small demonstration of his talent.He used pure plastic media on the side of one fender. After a few minutes of off and on usage the media hardly made a dent in the removal of the old enamel.The original paint was like rock. He then mixed up the sand and media.What a diffence.It came off in no time at all. I told him I was really leary of warping the panels with the heat the sand generates.Another demonstration.I'm a doubting Thomas. He took a large sheet of metal blasted half of it with sand for a few minutes. Warped the panel.I was like WTF.He then did the other side in a different technique.Still using all sand. Smooth as can be.Its all about the person holding that gun, how they use it and most of all experience. He said he liked the mixture of media and sand because it removed All rust and the media allowed him a safety net of making sure no panels ever warped.He used fine play ground sand.Gotta say the final results said a lot about him.
Keep up the great work and the pictures coming.
Dan
I spent 3 months with a heat gun, WD40 and wax/grease remover removing every spec of undercoating from the WHOLE underneath chassis.I do mean every speck. Along the way I was also chemically etching each section with Pickle X 20.Then applied Zero Rust in 3 coats.The same stuff they use in barges and oil rigs.My reasoning was if it could hold up to salt water 24/7 it would suffice in my under carriage.
I too wore a disposiable charcoal mask every step of the way. I changed out the filters very often when I was applying the organic paint of Zero Rust. It worked well for the hobbiest.I agree if its something that you did for a living I would invest in a full suit and hood.
Sand blasting. When it came down to the surface exterior of the body I was a little shocked when the person told me he was going to use a mixture of media and sand.He gave me a small demonstration of his talent.He used pure plastic media on the side of one fender. After a few minutes of off and on usage the media hardly made a dent in the removal of the old enamel.The original paint was like rock. He then mixed up the sand and media.What a diffence.It came off in no time at all. I told him I was really leary of warping the panels with the heat the sand generates.Another demonstration.I'm a doubting Thomas. He took a large sheet of metal blasted half of it with sand for a few minutes. Warped the panel.I was like WTF.He then did the other side in a different technique.Still using all sand. Smooth as can be.Its all about the person holding that gun, how they use it and most of all experience. He said he liked the mixture of media and sand because it removed All rust and the media allowed him a safety net of making sure no panels ever warped.He used fine play ground sand.Gotta say the final results said a lot about him.
Keep up the great work and the pictures coming.
Dan