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29 replies

1972 European GTS - Chassis 2609- Gr4 conversion project

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noquarternoquarterMember
Hi Philippe
I don't know if anybody have any special advice for this exact intake on this exact block. My experience with Chevys and Fords and Marine engines is that if you use the end seals and on top of them give a thick line of RTV, it never leaks again. How thick must be dermined by trial fit of intake manifold. Good luck
G 72gts 2Member
quote:
Originally posted by No Quarter:
Hi Philippe
I don't know if anybody have any special advice for this exact intake on this exact block. My experience with Chevys and Fords and Marine engines is that if you use the end seals and on top of them give a thick line of RTV, it never leaks again. How thick must be dermined by trial fit of intake manifold. Good luck


Hello Mikael,
Thanks, That's what I read too ... some say with, some without ...
I'll do a "try" fit.
Regards
Philippe
marlinjackmarlinjackThe Machinist #5723 AMARGOSA MACHINE 'Running on Empty- Middle of Nowhere'
...My Opinion is, NEVER Mill the Top, unless You Want to Destroy the Value of a Rare Manifold, also make it useless for any Car other than the Pantera. I Use a 'Angle Plate Spacer'!

About Sealing? I am Talking about the 2 Front and Rear, END SEALS ONLY. I Clean BOTH sides of the Contact areas with a Degreaser, and Apply RTV on Both Sides(Manifold and Block) of each end, Lay it on THICK and smash them together when the RTV starts to get tacky. NO Leaks for Me. The best thing about using RTV Instead Of The 'End Seals', is the RTV can squeeze into All the Nooks and Crannies, Especially in the Corners and in blending into the 'Port Gaskets'!! The End Seals Cannot do this! And if You Cover the End Seals with RTV....Think About this!! You are trying to SEAL the SEAL!! And RTV does Not stick so well to Rubber, I've tried it, Once....Decades ago.
I still use Composite Gaskets to Seal the Intake PORTS.
Last edited by marlinjack
noquarternoquarterMember
Marlin, it's just a test fit, no bolts in. But on that topic, I had a problem with my CHI manifold that leaned forwards, engine could stall due to spill over when braking hard, but only forwards, not reversing. I milled the manifold horizontal in the Pantera setup with a grinder and a file and a lot of patience. No more stalling.

That said, it is a higher manifold, so the risk of messing up flow was less.

Regardless, don't fix a fuel spill over problem when braking by lowering the secondary float/fuel level, that will make your secondaries too lean and might if unlucky put a hole in your pistons.
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
72GT, what you have is a front-engine intake manifold on the engine as shown. Front engine cars have their engines mounted on a slant for various reasons. Pantera engines are mounted horizontal and use an intake cast that way. You can run a tilted intake in your street Pantera, but you will have to carefully adjust the front & rear carb floats for proper mixture. If you have the carb pad milled flat, float adjustment is simpler but you will also have to redrill the 4 mounting screws to the new carb angle or they may loosen, bend, or break over time.

A cheaper alternative is an angled spacer rather than milling, but the redrilling still needs to be done relative to the new angle of the carb on top. And it increases the height of the carb by the spacer thickness, which will interrupt rearward vision a bit more, which some find objectionable. Finally, on an open plenum intake as shown, the engine may actually run a little stronger with such a spacer.... or not. It depends on your cam and a host of other things. Spacers are cheap and they need not be metal- try one and see how the engine acts. A spacer can also be run on a flat intake. Good luck.
G 72gts 2Member
quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
72GT, what you have is a front-engine intake manifold on the engine as shown. Front engine cars have their engines mounted on a slant for various reasons. Pantera engines are mounted horizontal and use an intake cast that way. You can run a tilted intake in your street Pantera, but you will have to carefully adjust the front & rear carb floats for proper mixture. If you have the carb pad milled flat, float adjustment is simpler but you will also have to redrill the 4 mounting screws to the new carb angle or they may loosen, bend, or break over time.

A cheaper alternative is an angled spacer rather than milling, but the redrilling still needs to be done relative to the new angle of the carb on top. And it increases the height of the carb by the spacer thickness, which will interrupt rearward vision a bit more, which some find objectionable. Finally, on an open plenum intake as shown, the engine may actually run a little stronger with such a spacer.... or not. It depends on your cam and a host of other things. Spacers are cheap and they need not be metal- try one and see how the engine acts. A spacer can also be run on a flat intake. Good luck.


Thanks for the tips
Shall I really have the carb flat to run the car ?

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