I'll have to say the 351c is a engine that does not need much internal work to make frightening power (unlike other engines).
Good selection of external parts (intake manifolds, carburetors/injection, headers, exhaust, ignition ect) can make a pretty standard 351c very powerful.
Thanks Aus Ford, In fact changing the pistons is also a matter of reliability. As I read thinks about cylinder cracks. Don't want to spin past 6000 rpm and risk breaking everything.
I really need to look to my cam what it was.
I took the comp cam it was new, and Philippe (from the forum) sold it to me shipped for 100 euros. So I'll try it see what it gives. Cames lifts higher than my actuel cam, I guess It'll breath better.
In addition I'll looking for an adjustable timing drive It'll be the opportunity to learn a bit.
I really need to look to my cam what it was.
I took the comp cam it was new, and Philippe (from the forum) sold it to me shipped for 100 euros. So I'll try it see what it gives. Cames lifts higher than my actuel cam, I guess It'll breath better.
In addition I'll looking for an adjustable timing drive It'll be the opportunity to learn a bit.
And also about external part, in fact I have flowmaster exhaust lines. And a holley 600cfm reference 80457 (not the best one I heard) and stock intake (for the moment 
)
)
One warning, whereas the "forged" TRW pistons I recommended are tough enough to endure installation in old/worn bores, hyper-eutectic pistons such as the KB 108 should not be installed in old/worn bores.
Good luck with the path you've chosen.
-G
Good luck with the path you've chosen.
-G
Ok so would it be finally better to stick with the stock pistons ? any risks ? In fact I'm nearly coming to keep all as It was. And my cylinders have really no wear.
Concerning the camshaft I heard your recommendation(s) and did not choose another path, I heard what you said and will have a closer look to the cam see if it's an after market one. I will try both (the comp cam, just to see) and get the timing systeme you advised to have the cams "up".
Concerning the camshaft I heard your recommendation(s) and did not choose another path, I heard what you said and will have a closer look to the cam see if it's an after market one. I will try both (the comp cam, just to see) and get the timing systeme you advised to have the cams "up".
quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
... Ok so would it be finally better to stick with the stock pistons ...
In my opinion no. It would be best to raise the static compression to 10:1. If you perform no other modification, you should at least do that. You can accomplish that with the stock pistons if you swap the heads (Australian 302C heads), or keep the D0AE heads and install flat top pistons with approximately 1.65" pin height. The Australian 302C heads are small port heads and shall require a small port intake manifold such as the Edelbrock Performer 2V.
quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
Concerning the camshaft ... will have a closer look to the cam see if it's an after market one ...
Based on your cam measurement the cam is an aftermarket copy of the original 1972 - 1974 Cobra Jet/GT/Q code camshaft. The only difference being 115 degree LSA, the original was 117 degree LSA.
quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
... I will try both (the comp cam, just to see) ...
The Comp Cams "282S" camshaft is a solid tappet cam. It shall require adjustable valve train, there are two ways to accomplish this without modifying the heads, (1) adjustable push rods, or (2) pedestal mounted adjustable rocker arms such as the Yella Terra YT6015. The Yella Terra rocker arms are expensive, but good parts usually are. Both of these choices give you the option to go back to "stock" if you decide to do so.
quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
... get the timing systeme you advised to have the cams "up" ...
The recommendation to time the camshaft "straight-up" applies ONLY to the Cobra Jet camshaft.
-G
Hi Jérémie,
My overall recommendations would be:
1: if the bores have little wear, hone them and replace your dish top pistons with flat top pistons and new rings.
2: don't bother to deck the block, clean it and use as is. Don't clean it with any harsh chemicals (acids or caustic) as these will eat up the cam bearings.
3: polish the crankshaft journals and fit the appropriate size new bearings.
4: if you have the original ford valves (with 4 grooves for the collets) replace all the valves with single groove valves (the ford ones can fail). Obviously you will have to change the collets, you may have to change the spring retainers as well ???
5: get the valve seats recut and if not already done install hardened valve seats on the exhaust.
6: Get the valve guides redone.
7: machine .010" off the cylinder head deck surface.
8: get a set of the pedestal mounted adjustable rocker arms (Yella Terra YT6015) as George suggested they will work with whatever cam you decide to use.
9: get new pushrods.
10: get a new standard oil pump
11: get a new timing chain and sprockets with multiple key ways to enable you to retime for different cams.
12: if you use the cam that was in it, time it straight up. Time any other cams as per recommendations.
13: replace the connecting rod nuts, the bolts are ok but the nuts are weak. ARP makes replacement nuts. Or buy a set of nuts and bolts and just use the nuts from the set.
Later on you can think about intake manifolds, carbs, ignitions ect.
Good luck.
.
My overall recommendations would be:
1: if the bores have little wear, hone them and replace your dish top pistons with flat top pistons and new rings.
2: don't bother to deck the block, clean it and use as is. Don't clean it with any harsh chemicals (acids or caustic) as these will eat up the cam bearings.
3: polish the crankshaft journals and fit the appropriate size new bearings.
4: if you have the original ford valves (with 4 grooves for the collets) replace all the valves with single groove valves (the ford ones can fail). Obviously you will have to change the collets, you may have to change the spring retainers as well ???
5: get the valve seats recut and if not already done install hardened valve seats on the exhaust.
6: Get the valve guides redone.
7: machine .010" off the cylinder head deck surface.
8: get a set of the pedestal mounted adjustable rocker arms (Yella Terra YT6015) as George suggested they will work with whatever cam you decide to use.
9: get new pushrods.
10: get a new standard oil pump
11: get a new timing chain and sprockets with multiple key ways to enable you to retime for different cams.
12: if you use the cam that was in it, time it straight up. Time any other cams as per recommendations.
13: replace the connecting rod nuts, the bolts are ok but the nuts are weak. ARP makes replacement nuts. Or buy a set of nuts and bolts and just use the nuts from the set.
Later on you can think about intake manifolds, carbs, ignitions ect.
Good luck.
.
Thanks Ausford, this is nearly exactly what I'm going to do except the pistons. I was wondering about keeping old ones, and find better rings.
Since the engine is out and disassembled I would change the pistons to flat tops.
You're right but the euro collapsed so dramatically ... that budget for the whole car is increasing ...
2 shock towers for the mustang ... 140 $ each ... 450 euros arrived here.
Do you have some links where I can have a look in Australia for engine parts ? Rate may be much more interesting.
2 shock towers for the mustang ... 140 $ each ... 450 euros arrived here.
Do you have some links where I can have a look in Australia for engine parts ? Rate may be much more interesting.
Have a look at ebay Australia. Search for "Cleveland" or "351c".
From time to time there are some good items that go pretty cheap.
I've picked up a few things on there. There is some trash also, Chinese stuff, so be wary, but worth a look.
Aus dollar is not worth much at the moment.
From time to time there are some good items that go pretty cheap.
I've picked up a few things on there. There is some trash also, Chinese stuff, so be wary, but worth a look.
Aus dollar is not worth much at the moment.