Clutch effort reduction kit.

Bought mine from Mike Mayberry who lists Pantera parts on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/barbaram442

It's a nice kit that uses needle bearings.

Hi Ron,

thanks for the info, I go order this kit.

regards

Simon

Hi Simon, I just put the above effort reduction pieces  with complete rebuild of the pedal box,  etc.  But, I also have a long throw slave which increases the pedal effort so kind of offsets the "advantage". My set up is perfectly adjusted with correct clearance and correct EVERYTHING and as many have said, the original system was very much at the limit for nice release. So, after going back and forth with experiments on the stock and then the long throw slave, I played it safe and kept the long throw.  But you probably know this stuff already!!

Hi Dan,

thanks for  the advice and sugestions.

Think I found the problem, the pivot shat turns not smootly, think I drill a hole on each side on the place of the bearing and screw in a grese nipple for a smoother  turn of the pivot shaft.

Hope it will work this way and take out the transaxle is not needed.

Simon

When you say pivot shaft, are you talking about the cross shaft for the clutch fork?

I believe those are sealed bearings on each end of the cross shaft and adding a grease nipple will be of no value

Larry

i have the Mccloud hydraulic throw out bearing and the pedal effort reductions deal and i can't imagine what a stock clutch felt like, thank god i fly a plane, both legs will be the same size from right rudder.

I am working on pulling my pedal assembly out, and will be machining the four main cast pedestals for 20 mm ID needle bearings.

I also have needle bearings for the clutch effort reduction kit linkage, and for the accelerator pedals.

I’m doing this as a project through my community college, so I’m getting access to the mill that I need to machine out the bearing pockets.

I would assume the cross shaft is this main shaft that transfers the clutch pedal across the top of the pedal box to the effort reduction linkage..  I would assume a judiciously drilled hole in four locations might help the shaft move more smoothly…

Rocky

No, this is not my pedal assembly, but a representative one that I’m using to evaluate the amount of work to be done…. I still have to pull mine out of the car…

After take out the ZF I found the main problem, a stupid mechanic has mounting the new clutch, T/O bearing and brass pilot bush without grease.

The T/O bearing was scraped on the inputshaft bush.

Simon

Is any of this needed when using a diaphragm style pressure plate?

@1770 posted:

Is any of this needed when using a diaphragm style pressure plate?

Not sure what you are asking…

if you need a clutch effort, reduction kit?

If that’s the question… It depends on you.

in my case… Driving in a lot of traffic (stop and go) … Yes, definitely!

I ended removing the clutch effort reduction on my 74 Euro Pantera.  It has a Centerforce diaphragm clutch and the effort reduction kit tended to make the clutch on/off.  This was especially the case when I first got the car and the pivot points in the kit were worn out and elongated.  I got new parts for the kit with roller bearings from Wilkinson and it was better but I ended up pulling it.  

The kit ended up going into another Pantera with a McCloud 3 finger clutch.  Before the kit was installed, the amount of leg force needed to press the clutch was absurd.  After the kit was installed, it was just right.

I left the kit, after repairing it with needle bearings, with a diaphragm clutch and the effort is very reasonable. I checked with the help of my wife that the slave cylinder starts to react as soon as I touch the pedal, without any delay.

Since there is no space to put the foot next to the pedal, it is very often left on it and I have adjusted the length of the push rod so that there is a very slight hard point before the pedal depresses, like this I am sure not to exert pressure involuntarily on the clutch release bearing.

I should have noted that my car with the Centerforce diaphragm clutch also has a McCleod hydraulic throwout bearing in lieu of the Pantera clutch slave cylinder.  This probably contributed to the on/off feel of the clutch pedal.

I just installed this on Rich Papworth's car this past summer, and the effort reduction kit is great with a clutch kit. It does one more thing: if you have a lot of slop in the existing master cylinder linkage due to wear, the new kit will correct it with new parts. I think that is the main reason I went to the newer effort reduction kit for my car and Rich's car.

Simon, I read your post again. One thing to note is that recent throwout bearings have been known to be too tight on the ZF bearing nose and have resulted in many transaxles being pulled back out and the assembly redone. I know of three or four people who have experienced this recently.

@coreyprice posted:

It does one more thing: if you have a lot of slop in the existing master cylinder linkage due to wear, the new kit will correct it with new parts.

After 50 years, there is also slop in the slave cylinder linkage.  There is now a fix for that.  New push rods are available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29692...tkp%3ABk9SR7qQruyeZQ

Thanks for the info. I’m doing a complete overhaul of the car as I received it as a shell and a lot of boxes so I’m going through everything and since It’s apart I better address it now so I just want to get the combo right. I’m familiar with the on/off feeling and would like to avoid that. My plan is; diaphragm style clutch,stock style T.O. Bearing, std slave cylinder and a clutch effort reduction kit. I like the lighter side when it comes to clutch feel.

I am not sure that the wear of this rod is very annoying because the clearance is automatically caught up by the piston which comes out a little more from the slave cylinder at rest.
It is totally different for all the mechanical control between the pedal and the master cylinder because the pedal stroke is fixed and the slightest clearance results in a weaker piston stroke and therefore a less good clutch release. A new effort reduction kit with needle bearings is therefore particularly recommended.

IIRC, King (Mike Mayberry) on this forum had some new build effort reduction kits (and perhaps (likely) other vendors do too).

They were a little spendy for me, and as  was in the process of updating my original parts to needle bearings, I didn’t use one, but they looked like they were top quality!

Rocky

I purchased and installed an ERK from Mike Mayberry a few years ago. VERY nice piece of work...

That is the kit that Wilkinson manufactures.  I have seen him making the extended shaft that is shared with the gas pedal.  He was cutting them out of stainless rod on his lathe.

I looked at Wilkinson's site this AM, a couple questions hopefully someone can clarify for my future reference.  (1) In the "Clutch" section he lists 2 clutch masters, 1 WITH effort reduction, another WITHOUT.  How much difference could that make either alone or in conjunction with also the ERK and why (bore I guess)?  and (2) In the "Pedals" section he lists 2 Effort Reduction Kits (respectively Part numbers "A" and "B"), the 1st of which is considerably more expensive than the pictured "B" one that I "think" seems to match the pictures here.  What's the difference?  Thanks in advance for any insight.

Lee

Panteras without the ERK use a clutch master with a long push rod. Panteras with the ERK use a clucth master with a short push rod. That's all the difference, I imagine.

Regarding the ERK, Part #: 04028B looks like what I installed and pictured above. I have no idea what Part #: 04028A could be for that price difference. Gold-plating comes to mind...

The more expensive one includes the cross shat that the pedal is attached to.

Okay, that helps, thanks guys!