You should see the chart on the 90W gear oil.
At cold it took about 150 sec, and at hot it was very close to the 2 second viscosity level of the other oils.
George - I will sit down with my daughter and go over the oiling information as soon as she finishes watching "American Idol"... gag.
Rocky
quote:Originally posted by Rocky:
You should see the chart on the 90W gear oil.
At cold it took about 150 sec, and at hot it was very close to the 2 second viscosity level of the other oils..
That is because gear oil and crankcase oil are on two different grade designation scales. SAE 90 gear oil is about equivalent to SAE 40 - 50 crankcase oil. Here is a link to a chart.
http://www.synlube.com/images/viscosity_table_2.jpg
quote:SAE 90 gear oil is about equivalent to SAE 40 - 50 crankcase oil
My daughter will definately use this info in her poster board. It is also nice to know that the experimental results make sense!
Thanks, Dave!
Rocky
quote:Originally posted by Rocky:
My daughter will definately use this info in her poster board. It is also nice to know that the experimental results make sense!
Thanks, Dave!
Rocky
As your budding tribologist becomes more versed in the science of Newtonian fluids, she may want to become familiar with "true" viscosity units of measure (SUS, cSt). SAE 10W-40 is not a viscosity. It is a label that defines the performance of a fluid that behaves like an SAE 10 at low temperature, and an SAE 40 at high temperature.
Each of these grades (10 and 40) has a viscosity index on how they perform at certain low and high temperatures, measured on a logarithmic scale.
More reading here:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox....viscosity-d_397.html
quote:Originally posted by bdud:
"Oil serves new purposes, we are using oil to cool and dampen parts where back in the day it was only used for lubrication". "Oil fills the insides of the valve covers, completely submerging the valve springs. The crew must drain this oil before removing the valve covers". They take 6 gallons of oil though, it is dry sumped.
My information shows right or wrong, that when the 351c first came into use in NASCAR after the 429 Shotgun (Boss 429) was eliminated by the rules, that initially there was an issue with valve spring failure.
Granted there has been a drastic improvement of technology in valve springs which let them last at higher lifts, higher rpm's for seemingly forever.
It was the lack of valve spring technology which limited the 427 Fords at LeMans to 6,000rpm's in the GT40's.
I know in the 351C's one of the solutions was to cool the springs by submerging them in about 1-1/2" of oil. At least according to the Woods Brothers.
They told me that fixed the problem.
Solutions often cross from one team to another (stealing others good ideas) and where that idea originated (Ford or Chevy camp) really doesn't matter except to the historians.
I personally can tell you that the location of the oil drainback holes in my A3 Motorsport heads positively creates a reservoir of oil which keeps the base of the springs permanently submerged in oil. Roughly a quart between the two heads.
Something else that I haven't seen mentioned in about 35 or 40 years which some think is very significant, the original Ford Boss 302/351 valve covers had drip tabs that fastened with screws to the insides of the valve covers.
The Detomaso script covers do not. They seem to be fashioned from the original molds of the Boss covers?
Just the fact that the Ford engineers thought them important enough to include at extra effort on their parts, makes them significant to me too.
Just food for thought here.
Biggest problem with drip-fingers and baffles in OEM rocker covers is, nearly all interfere with more desirable full-roller rockers. Triple springs all rub each other to dampen their harmonics, and drying up the top-of-the-motor oil supply can quickly turn the valve springs blue.... which happens around 550F I think. 'Drying up the heads' with restrictors is an example of something that works in ultra-high-rpm drag racing but not on the street. Some WFO-Cleveland fans add pressurized lube-bars in their rocker covers that sprays on the springs. Short AN lines from a tee at the stock oil gauge supplies plenty of oil.
quote:Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Biggest problem with drip-fingers and baffles in OEM rocker covers is, nearly all interfere with more desirable full-roller rockers. Triple springs all rub each other to dampen their harmonics, and drying up the top-of-the-motor oil supply can quickly turn the valve springs blue.... which happens around 550F I think. 'Drying up the heads' with restrictors is an example of something that works in ultra-high-rpm drag racing but not on the street. Some WFO-Cleveland fans add pressurized lube-bars in their rocker covers that sprays on the springs. Short AN lines from a tee at the stock oil gauge supplies plenty of oil.
The baffles need to be pinched together and welded in that position then they stay out of the way of aluminum roller rockers. The drip fingers can be trimmed in length.
The aluminum roller rockers are bulkier than the Comp Cams stainless for sure. The stainless rollers are smaller and offer more clearance.
I'm using the Ford Racing aluminum roller rockers with Detomaso covers. It's tight in there but they do clear. No cover gaskets. Just siliconed to the heads.
There's a little work involved in clearancing everything but it's very doable.
using double springs with dampeners so yes there is a little friction there. The oil bath is a good thing.
quote:can quickly turn the valve springs blue.... which happens around 550F I think.
From my experience non-ferrous materials can start turning blue at around 400 degrees F. When we sweat parts together we try to keep the temps at or below 350 degrees F. Above 400 degrees you are tempering the parts and the metallurgical changes to the pieces can be destructive depending on the application.
Jeff