351C valve train components to spin at 7000 rpm

It depends on the camshaft. Email the cam maker and ask for a recommendation.

I personally am using EPN parts throughout. Springs are triple.

Some racers don't use stem seals, those guides run tight and don't need them I use Teflon seals.

I have a no-name camshaft and a 282 Solid comp cam, I haven't decided yet which one to use … maybe I should run something stronger.

I'm using this one.

http://www.compperformancegrou...egory_Code=F351MFTCM

Good to know, have you got a video ? In it timed straight up ?

I am talking a hydraulic roller. All or any reputable cam company will have a matching valve spring recommendation including seals, as far as roller rockers I like the crane fat boy rockers and have used them on at least 3 different cam combos. Lifters are also a preference part, I use Lunati lifters. I use Moroso hardened push rods.The advances in distributor gears has brought about a new gear of metal that matches your cam, bronze gears wear out the new metal gears will last for a extended period like 50,000 miles, and then you check them. another part you should consider is a stud girdle.. This is on C-302-B heads and a Comp cam.
7000 no problem, but not all day at 7000, for that you will have to spend more money.

quote:

Originally posted by Jérémie:
Good to know, have you got a video ? In it timed straight up ?

No videos. This is all stealth stuff. Videos are suicidal proof to the Police.

The valve train will safely go over 7000 but to run all day long at 7000 is really a different engine.

Road race Clevelands are really an engine that tops out power wise around 6700 or 6800 rpm.

That really is their forte. The 4500 to high 6000's. By today's standards they are an ancient design. However for something out of almost the stone age, or is that the stoned age, they still hold their own.

This engine will run to about 7500 but you are going to find that really isn't necessary generally speaking.

Drag race is a different engine as is a NASCAR race engine.
Those are engines that regularly run to 8500 rpm.

8,200 is all that Curt Voght will admit to in his 66 GT350 but the engine needs a rebuild after every race and it is a 30 to 40 thousand dollar engine.

Wanna' play with those guys? Bring lots of money.

Everything here is used straight up.

quote:

I'm using this one.

http://www.compperformancegrou...egory_Code=F351MFTCM

I have to think about the cam, I am wondering if the 282S I have today will be a good thing with a set of ported heads (exhaust) pressed bronze guides etc .. also I have a torker 4V intake.
I’ll check the recommended spring for this cam and the 282S and see the stiffer one.

quote:

I am talking a hydraulic roller. All or any reputable cam company will have a matching valve spring recommendation including seals, as far as roller rockers I like the crane fat boy rockers and have used them on at least 3 different cam combos. Lifters are also a preference part, I use Lunati lifters. I use Moroso hardened push rods.The advances in distributor gears has brought about a new gear of metal that matches your cam, bronze gears wear out the new metal gears will last for a extended period like 50,000 miles, and then you check them. another part you should consider is a stud girdle.. This is on C-302-B heads and a Comp cam.
7000 no problem, but not all day at 7000, for that you will have to spend more money.

For the lifter I have these ones : http://paceperformance.com/i-6...ratio-7-16-stud.html
I’ll call comp-cam for the spring spec and see how much it costs, should I put a washer under the spring ? (@Doug, I remember that you told me to cut the head to accept triple spring ? and use a hard steel cup under the spring ?)
My car will be a road car, should I really go for a girdle ? If yes I’ll be definitely not possible to run the stock cover …
Have you got a recommendation (part number)for the distributor sprocket ?

quote:

quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
Good to know, have you got a video ? In it timed straight up ?

No videos. This is all stealth stuff. Videos are suicidal proof to the Police.
The valve train will safely go over 7000 but to run all day long at 7000 is really a different engine.
Road race Clevelands are really an engine that tops out power wise around 6700 or 6800 rpm.
That really is their forte. The 4500 to high 6000's. By today's standards they are an ancient design. However for something out of almost the stone age, or is that the stoned age, they still hold their own.
This engine will run to about 7500 but you are going to find that really isn't necessary generally speaking.
Drag race is a different engine as is a NASCAR race engine.
Those are engines that regularly run to 8500 rpm.
8,200 is all that Curt Voght will admit to in his 66 GT350 but the engine needs a rebuild after every race and it is a 30 to 40 thousand dollar engine.

Wanna' play with those guys? Bring lots of money.

Everything here is used straight up.

I do not intend to race this engine, my car will be a week end road car and I have a top loader behind, as said in another post I run a diesel in the week and my last American V8 was athmatic, so, I want this Cleveland to pull and screm, I don't want another disel like my last GM engine, I searched a lot for this 4V + toploader to do this kind of prep, scream like an excited small engine and pull like a big block, that’s the idea. And if if could overlap at idle it would be just perfect even if it is a bit superficial, It's so cool to hear...

Top power above 6500 would be just great, If I could have a strong mid rand that would be fantastic.

8500 I think I’ll throw the rods somewhere and cry for 1 year of lost work.

I picked that cam for a reason. For what you want I think it is fine. For everyday, you will hate it.

It positively screams. With the 180's and Webers at idle if you blip the throttle it whines like an Indy car.

You have an aluminium / light flywheel ?

quote:

Originally posted by Jérémie:
You have an aluminium / light flywheel ?

Not me. I don't care for them.

For a heavier car, a car driven in traffic, a lumpy cam or stumble at low revs, the heavy flywheel might be better and feel smoother. It is personal choice sometimes.
If you are considering replacing your cam have a look at roller cams as Chris mentioned. A lot of plus's over flat tappets but higher price. Have a search or call a few shops, cam manufacturers, see what they say. A couple of links..
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/e...crp-0403-roller-cam/
http://www.lunatipower.com/Tec...tTappetOrRoller.aspx

If you're building an engine for racing I'd recommend solid tappets.

I won't race this engine, considering that, It would be better for me to go with roller cam ?

Should I mill the spring seat to accommodate triple spring like boss heads ? If yes what should be the remaining outer diameter dimension ?

quote:

Originally posted by Jérémie:
Should I mill the spring seat to accommodate triple spring like boss heads ? If yes what should be the remaining outer diameter dimension ?

Cam is a personal choice. A solid lifter cam is a lot cheaper.

First you need to have the valve seats done. then you need to know what height the locks are set at.

Then you set the springs up to specs. You should use a hardened seat for the springs.

You might not need to cut the seats. The cutters only come in certain sizes.

Chevys would use 1-1/2". Ford Cleveland I believe is 1-3/4" od.

You should be able to install Teflon stem seals on those bronze guides just the way they are.

I’ll open a thread for the cam selection. In fact I realized that I was running a 505 hydraulic cam ! The reference is : RYB24 and it seems to be a vintage melling hydrau 505 cam.(it was not timed "noses up" on the car)

I’ve degree my 282S and seems fahr from the spec, I should have made a mistake somewhere. (camshaft spec at 0.05 are valve lift and not lifter.. lift ?)

I’ll cut the heads for triple spring compatibility but I have a problem, or two problems :
1. Should I cut to 1971 boss 351 dimension ? or a cam manufacturer’s ?
2. When cut, will I find the righ spring seat ? have you got some references ? (I remember you gave one to me a couple of month ago)
Jérémie.

I would like to extol the virtues of a hydrolic roller again. When I bought my first roller was in 1998, a Crane with 509 lift, Crane offers all their cams with the correct vale spring combo's and ALL the other matching components. I switched over to Lunati with a custom grind that would spin to 7,000 quick, I now have a Comp, the one consistent is they all made big power over a flat tappet hydrolic, they also do not require "break in", special oil additives and as all new push rod motors have hydrolic rollers you can run any of the synthetic lubricants. that said, they cost more, but not like 20years ago, the prices have come way down. The one thing that also separates the two cam types is the flat tappets loopy idle, rollers do not give you much indication of how powerful they are, their idle is much smoother and this goes to the point, if you want drive ability and big performance, longevity and less maintenance, get a hydrolic roller. On the tec questions, the forum is a great source, but did you know that all the cam companies have tec people who advise and solve cam question all day long? Your not the first nor will you be the last to build the the perfect engine, call the manufacture, let them know what your expectations and goals are, they have specific formulas that work.

Thank you for your post pantera Chris, I understood that any cam manufacturer has a tech guy for advices but I fear that people think Chevy when advising me for a Cleveland and I am French, written English is ok, but spoken, technical + accent is quite a big challenge !!!

quote:

Originally posted by Jérémie:
Thank you for your post pantera Chris, I understood that any cam manufacturer has a tech guy for advices but I fear that people think Chevy when advising me for a Cleveland and I am French, written English is ok, but spoken, technical + accent is quite a big challenge !!!

I like to send emails. Those guys in Tennessee don't understand my NY accent either.

They do actually know what a Cleveland is and believe it or not, there have been tech upgrades since the Boss 351 was built.

You are matching valve train components. You need to pick a system and stay with it with all of the components.

If you start to mix and match you will just confuse the matter.

The first thing I did is to mill the head arround the guide, I have found some spring seats compliant for double or tripple spring at comp cam.

I'll send a mail to the tech guys of the cam manufacturers I just need to find the time to write it !

I open a specific tread for the cam.

Jérémie - I run a Compcams 282S and really like it. It completely, completely changed the nature of the engine. I have a 6500rpm rev limiting chip in my MSD, and it would happily rev above that if I were to let it.

I've been running this engine since it was rebuilt in 2001 in Toulouse and have had zero problems since. I like the ability to rev and the sound of the solid-lifters.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but see you at Classic Le Mans in 2016?