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I did have a Teksid DOHC 4.6 with the ZF in my car when I purchased it. It was a dog in the power department. It was beautiful to look at, started every time, had power steering -- but man, that engine did not have the power I was looking for.

If you want to do a mod motor and not expect serious horsepower, then fine, I understand. Just do not expect the 4.6L motor to make more horsepower than the 351 motors. I remember my uncle saying something a long time ago when I broached the subject of my 16 valve 2.0L inline 4 cylinder Triumph Dolomite Sprint engine -- ".... there is no replacement for displacement...." I hated to admit it at the time, but now I can honestly say that he was right, and I was not. It is a lesson that I will never forget.

So again, it depends what you want to do with your car but do not let anyone tell you that the mod motor is this huge horsepower hi torque thing, because you will be disappointed. Now if you add a supercharger or turbos to a mod motor that is something different too, but we are definitely moving into a different price range with that stuff too.

Mark
Here is the dyno printout. The guy that did the dyno and final tuning for me said it probably has about 660/670 HP at the crank and it has 532 lbs of torque.
While I had the car apart I rewired it completly, changed the gas tank to two 12 gallon tanks, one on each side, HID headlights and so many other mods I cant remember. It's not original anymore but I am very happy with the finished project (assuming they are ever really finished).

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Rick,

Do you have any issues with pulling in a lot of brake dust or dust into the air filter and plugging it in the wheel well, or do you have cool air routed from another location off camera?

Beautiful car -- love all of the modifications that you have done to it.

As I am thinking about this, I thought I would ask what you did to strengthen the car too? With all of that horsepower, did you do anything special to stiffen the car so it would not twist and crack the paint (or worse, misalign the doors and rear decklid)?

Again, great work; beautiful car and some great solutions.

Mark
I put an aluminum shield above the rear tire to keep all road grime out of the filter. I removed the aluminum fins behind the rear window and made them active to bring in fresh air directly to the air filter. The car is very strong. When I origionaly put it together I welded all the seams and panels completly. I got it as a basket case with NONE of the body panels, roof or rear framing behind the firewall.

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VERY neat installation, Rick. FWIW, Sean Hyland and a very few others now offer a bored & stroked 5.4 DOHC that in final form displaces 358 cubic inches, taking care of the lack-of-low-end-torque complaints with modular motors. A member of Nor-Cal Panteras has one in his pushbutton and the engine looks like a Hemi from the sheer size of the thing! The long-stroke 5.4 positions the huge heads above the inner fender panels, saving all that notching stuff to make the thing fit. Still, its not an easy installation, especially with a detailed engine bay. For illustrated installation details, POCA published an installation of a DOHC with aftermarket blower, in the Sept, Oct and Nov 07 POCA News. Better own a TIG welder, or win the lottery!
I'll check out that info on POCA. These DOHC engins do look as big as a hemi. I love thier looks. The engine I got from Sean has alot of low end torque though. You can see from the dyno sheet that at about 2500 rpm it has over 450 lbs of torque. for an engine that has 572 rwhp and gets 15 mpg city and 20 highway AND is still as drivable as a production car, i'm really sold on these engines. Still the idea of 358 cubic inches is very compelling.
Rick,

Your installation "looks" about as simple as one could get...you really only notice the lone PCV valve hanging out on the valve cover!!!! Nicely done!

All,
I posted in the Pantera Parts For Sale Forum, the Ford shop manuals (PCED) to use when chasing ECM codes or "check engine light" codes when chasing problems in Mod motors or any others for that matter. They are chocked FULL of diagnosis info that will help one install one of these engines in a car. They have schematics, trouble shooting flow charts, and you can take a stock harness and "reduce component counts" by using this book to figure out when you can remove a component and jump out the connection with a short, or a xxxOhm resistor! ie EGR valves....

If you are thinking about it, check out my ad and go from there. You can always use the manuals for your F150 too!!!
Ciao!
Steve
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