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From the beginning there’s been a number of conversations on how good is this system compared to others and I don’t know. If it doesn’t compare exactly as a 996, I would like to know why. Understand a Porsche 996 is a beautiful engineered piece of machinery and can’t be compared to a Pantera of any year. Only way to compare brake systems is place them on a brake dyno. I live in Southern California and StopTech has three brake dynos. Chief engineer there (if he’s still there) used to be a Pantera owner. I’ll look into settings up a test if someone with a different system shares the same interest. Note: Testing to failure normally sacrifices test items.

Front and rear Brackets, hats, related cap screws with stainless washers. Everything except rotors and bolts that secure hats to rotors. Hats have 8 bolt (clearance for 5/16 bolts) pattern on 7.625 diameter. Thanks for responding. Been looking for your experience and expertise. Please keep me informed of how your braking system works. Doesn’t matter if you buy the parts.

Happy to contribute. It's nice when someone puts together a partially DIY solution vs the default "call the vendors" I have 4 "fun" cars all in various stages of build and modification. My 1972  2002"M2" Street/Tarmac rally/hill climb project (E30 M3 S14 Motorsport engine, Ground control double adjustable suspension, BBK (to be purchased) and huge other list of mods has turned into an expensive project. The Pantera needs paint and bodywork from some vandalism, The '77 Carrera (well the Porsche tax) and the Turbo...all ads up. Fortunately, I don't have any kids.

So yes...Don't go out of business in the next 3-6 mos. I will be buying some parts!

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Last edited by pantera2040
@brother-bee posted:

From the beginning there’s been a number of conversations on how good is this system compared to others and I don’t know. If it doesn’t compare exactly as a 996, I would like to know why. Understand a Porsche 996 is a beautiful engineered piece of machinery and can’t be compared to a Pantera of any year. Only way to compare brake systems is place them on a brake dyno. I live in Southern California and StopTech has three brake dynos. Chief engineer there (if he’s still there) used to be a Pantera owner. I’ll look into settings up a test if someone with a different system shares the same interest. Note: Testing to failure normally sacrifices test items.

It's interesting to hear you mention StopTech because I'm using their calipers on my Pantera. Before Wilwood manufactured street versions of their calipers, the main reason to use Porsche, Brembo, Baer, StopTech, etc. calipers was, they had the "DOT required" dust and dirt seals around the pistons, so you could drive the car through a big puddle of muddy, salty water and after years of doing so, the calipers would stand up to it. Now that Wilwood makes weatherproof, "street" calipers, there isn't as much of a benefit to the more expensive Brembo style calipers. That being said, I've never heard of a failure of a Wilwood racing caliper, without dust and dirt seals, even after decades of them being used on daily driven Panteras.

Unfortunately, even with 996TT calipers and rotors, a Pantera won't stop as well as a 996TT.  The reasons are: lack of ABS and lack of anti-dive geometry in the front suspension. When you brake hard in a Pantera, the nose drops and the rear rises, which induces weight transfer and reduces traction (and braking potential) at the rear. This effect can be minimized through the careful selection of coil spring rates and shock absorber tuning, but it's nearly impossible to match the Porsche without some anti-dive in the suspension. Then there's the ABS...

I drive with the PASM off most of the time unless I'm in the wet where it has saved my ass more that a few times. The rest of my cars you threshold brake. My Pantera has been in storage a long time and  I've clocked a lot of seat time on wet weather rallies in 911s since, but you only have to pirouette once in a Pantera to learn to avoid the wet or getting on the power in the wet.

Honestly I’m not trying to make a statement like I’m a bad ass and I’m sure you have a lot more experience in high performance driving (I normally ride the bus). Don’t know about other Panteras but after heating EBC blue pads for testing. My Pantera bottomed out the front suspension. There’s obviously a number of factors involved in effective braking. What I hope get better informed about  is a braking systems ability to stop rotors from turning multiple times, even under extreme heat. Please forgive if you feel it’s directed towards you personally. My question has been if a braking system is better, what’s involved to make it better?

I didn't take it that way at all...my apologies if that was how I came across. George Pence for instance has forgotten more things about the Pantera and general automotive than I'll probably ever know.

I'm in the hamfisted "hare" group but I'm no badass...always someone smoother and faster. I'm just a hoon and a shade-tree mechanic and excited to collaborate and provide feedback on build vs buy performance upgrades and learn from the group.

Last edited by pantera2040
@brother-bee posted:

I’m also considering using SACC’s CV axle kit (on sale for 2K) along with their air shocks. SACC’s not far from where I live so I’ll just drive down to discuss. Who makes the R compound tires you plan to use.

Ike, I purchased my Koni adjustable coil overs from Dennis at Pantera Performance.  Dennis also had a few different offerings for CV axles.  I was going to put them on my car to fit the 3” exhaust pipes, but my friend was able to get the exhaust to fit with the factory axles.

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