#7024 Pending Electrical Problems

Joules,

The jumping ammeter is normal when a Pantera is first started, it should stop jumping when the battery is fully charged. You'll need to drive tha car for a while. All of the Pantera gages are "undampened", which means the needles will move as quickly as their inputs change.

A lose or dirty wiring connection would make the oil pressure gage read low, so you might check the wiring behind the gage and at the sender first. If cleaning & tightening all the wiring connections fails to improve the reading then the oil pressure sender is probably responsible for your low pressure reading, and a new sender "should" fix that problem. Its a cylindrical unit on the rear of the motor with a wring connection on the top (see tha attached picture). They're normally a gold color, the one in the picture is black.

The a/c stopped working shortly after I purchased my car, wiggling the proper fuse fixed that problem and it's been OK ever since.

In general I haven't had to deal with much in the way of wiring problems with my car, so I'm not going to be much help, but I'll make these suggestions:

Print out copies of Bill Taylor's electrical schematics, you'll find them on Mike Dailey's web site, the Pantera Place:

http://www.panteraplace.com

Clean all of the fuse tips and fuse holder connections with a contact cleaner / restorer.

Clean and retighten all of your ground connections, there are some key grounds under the dashboard that cause headaches for many owners.

The dashboard switches and the key switch are also prone to getting dirty, burned or oxidized contacts, which creates an excessive voltage drop across the switch and results in things failing to operate.

Beyond that I'll leave further advice to others on the bulletin board.

Your friend on the DTBB, George

Mark, George,

Thanks for the advice.

I had already renewed the oil pressure sender unit as previously I had no oil pressure indication and with the car being relatively new to me I had no idea whether the motor was good or bad. That is why I had installed the mechanical gauge to give some idea. Unfortunately I have no history of the car and what modifications have been done to the motor, as I said someone installed big bore headers, but the intake manifold was original cast iron, so your guess is as good as mine.

I tackled number 5. the headlights last night after posting and stripped out the lift motor and gearbox to find the motor in poor condiion and the primary lift gear disintegrated. I will pick up a gear from Larry Stock and have already cleaned up the motor and it runs fine now.

Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how I get on with the rest of the issues.

Julian

Joules -
You might want to replace your voltage regulator. My system voltage was jumping and swinging all over the place. I took the original voltage regulator to Autozone for an electrical test. They said it was ok. I decided to buy a new solid state regulator anyway. The voltage is rock steady now. A new regulator is only about $15 as I recall.
BD

As always, thanks to all for the advice;

The headlight lift motor gearbox got a new bronze gear and is fine now. One headlight not lighting was due to a bad connection at the fuse.

Funnily enough after I repaired the headlight lift, the turn signals all worked okay.

The wiper motor and gearbox were truly gummed up with dirt. Cleaned them all out and the drive gear is a little damaged, but I might get away with it for now (not expecting to use the wipers too much anyway, right!). The wiper motor ran on the bench okay. Bad news is that the wiring loom was all fused together in the wiring block that goes into the motor, had to just cut it away, which was probably thanks to someone previously running high amperage fuses throughout i.e. 16 and 25 amps used throughout. I have now changed back to recommended fuse ratings, but can anyone tell me which wires go to where in the wiper motor plug in block, I'm going to have to put terminals on and plug them indiviually and its not clear from the wiring diagram I have what's what?

Better news is with most of the work done, I actually got to drive teh car round the block today, but can't select 2nd or 4th gear when warm. I was expectig 2nd gear syncro to be bad as I had been informed at purchase. However, standing still in the garage gear selection is not too much of an issue, so first of all I'm going to try adjusting the selector rod a little. I seem to recall reading that it should be done with rear wheels off the ground, is that correct? What does one adjust it up to as a measure, central movement of the shifter?

Julian

Julian,
First make sure the gear shift lever is center in the gate. Sitting between 3rd & 4th & center. If it's not, there is a turn buckle on the shift rod on the rear side of the Trunion bearing. Loosen it and center the shifter rod. If it's needs to go back or forward, loosen the turn buckle in front of the shifter box at the ZF and move the rod forward or back until it is center. This adjustment can also be done by the turn buckle under the console. But the one at the shifter box on the ZF is easier to get to.

Once this is done, check the separation on the clutch disc to the flywheel. You want at least .40 clearance when the clutch peddle is depressed to the floor. Have someone hold the clutch pedal to the floor and through the sight hole on the ZF, put a feeler gauge between the clutch disc and the flywheel and check the gap measurement. If it is not at least .40, then try bleeding the clutch. If it is, your cool.

Also check your slave for the right adjustments and check the throw your getting from the slave piston. Measure the travel distance for the piston. Use a ruler and measure the travel distance when someone depresses the clutch in which casues the slave piston to move out. It's easiest to measure this by measuring by the slave stop arm movement You should be getting 3/4" or more with a long throw. Keep in mind you also need a little freeplay when adjusting the slave stop so the T/O bearing is released when the clutch is out.

Adjusting the shift rod linkage that travels through the Trunion bearing is easy.
Jack up the drivers side of the car enough to get under it. Just a JACK STAND !
Loosen the top nut on the Trunion bearing so that it is a little loose. Position it center in the mount and as high as it will go. Have someone sit in the car and put it in First, Reverse, 4th & 5th while you're watching the turn buckle travel from underneath. Make sure the turn buckle clears the bell housing and fender well when going from these gears back and forth, side to side. If it's hitting or too close to either side, reposition the Trunion bearing until you clear both sides. Many have had to bend in the inter fender well a little for the clearance they needed.
Once you have it set, tighten it back up. That should do it.

I just installed Pantera performances Spiracle Trunion bearing and shifter rod in my car and it made a world of difference. Well worth the $90.00 I spent.

As for synchro's...well....that a whole another story.....Second gear is the weakest link in the ZF and it seems always the first to go....


[QUOTE] I'm going to try adjusting the selector rod a little. I seem to recall reading that it should be done with rear wheels off the ground, is that correct? What does one adjust it up to as a measure, central movement of the shifter?

...Hey Coz!? Shouldn't that measurement be .040" (40 Thousandths Inch) Minimum clearance between the Clutch Disk and Flywheel, OR Disk and Pressure Plate; OR Total of the two? .40 is .100 from 1/2"...

LOL...yes Marlin.....
Glad your paying attention.....

quote:

Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
...Hey Coz!? Shouldn't that measurement be .040" (40 Thousandths Inch) Minimum clearance between the Clutch Disk and Flywheel, OR Disk and Pressure Plate; OR Total of the two? .40 is .100 from 1/2"...