#7041 GTS

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Sorry for the small pics...please bear with me as I try to get a couple larger ones loaded!

Better!

Another

And...

Last one.

That really looks good.

Aren't you glad I talked you into buying those girdled valve covers!

Those are way better than the fake Hall "Dual Overhead Cam" valve covers that were going around.

Can't wait to see your car on the road.

Very cool carb setup, as well.

Rocky

PS. What did you decide to do with those twin turbos?

I'm blind! I can't see a thing with all that polish! How can you work on that thing? You need welding googles to see any detail...or is that the plan?

Yes, glad I listened to you Chuck! Turbos sold and going into a Ford truck up north. Doug...maybe I should have used flat black paint on the block to temper the polish?

quote:

Originally posted by d8omaso:
Yes, glad I listened to you Chuck! Turbos sold and going into a Ford truck up north. Doug...maybe I should have used flat black paint on the block to temper the polish?

Definitely not!!!!

that is a marvel to see!

took me a while to catch the GTS on top of the air cleaners.

is the step in heights to enhance the lettering or for any other purpose

quote:

Originally posted by d8omaso:
Yes, glad I listened to you Chuck! Turbos sold and going into a Ford truck up north. Doug...maybe I should have used flat black paint on the block to temper the polish?

Hum?

I put the shorter filter on the S and will place engine in car to check clearance from deck lid...really don’t want to cut original. If I have to cut, will go carbon fiber. Though the staggered filter heights would show off the GTS a little better from the rear view!

Beautiful!

Wow!

OK so I'm drooling! Beautiful. Give us some detail on where you got some of the parts: Valve covers, intake, etc. Sweet setup.

Dude, you got the same valve cover set up as mine below! You don't see that too often, as I was told those are hard to find now. You will do 6,000 RPM all day with that girdle set up...Tight! Do you happen to know the torque recommended on the acorn nuts? I noticed a couple of mine got loose, and I just snugged them down a bit with a wrench not knowing the torque. In looking at your photos it seems like the acorns just hold the cover onto the main bolts and therefore I just assume minimal torque on those acorns.

A3 Aluminum Heads by JanDaMan, on Flickr

I am interested in the "Trick Flow" head performance, with the right cam H.R. made 575h.p.
The try-power is also a interesting approach, I rode in a car with it in 1977, it worked! NICE JOB!!!

Jan, those original design rocker-stud-mount Ford covers are supposed to seal oil seepage with dead-soft copper washers, so more than what it takes to seal them is unnecessary- dunno what that might be. Where the studs go into the heads should be torqued to rocker-stud tightness, probably with a deep-point socket.

Tom...been slowly acquiring the parts over the last couple of years. I found the valve covers here on this forum! They were new in the box with all hardware and I powder coated them to match the body color of car. The tri-power intake was also new with the Holley carbs. Been sitting on a shelf in Michigan since the owner who used to work at the Dyno lab @ Ford brought them home. Ford ordered the destruction of the 500 they made after they were denied use by NASCAR. I purchased this at the estate auction. Supposedly there are only a handful of these that survived. Robert Richards also has a tri-power in his Pantera, so there are at least 2 of the eight or so in a deTomaso. The late Ed Nauman did the CNC “GTS” on the air filter covers...he did a great job and I would have liked to have had the chance to meet him in person!

Jan...been admiring your cars for a couple of years! Hope I get the chance to see them in person one day! It was actually your car that set me on the quest to search for them! I’ve seen you posts and replies that torque should be about 5-6ft.pd. Very light. I did place a thin layer of sealer around the tapered aluminum washer that sits below brass. If I find a definitive torque, I will be sure to pass it on.

Chris...my goal with the motor build is to be around 550lb.ft. Torque @ the low/mid range. Not too concerned about top speed, just want it to be “head-snapping” quick! Hence, parts were chosen for that goal. Will hopefully get dyno’d in the next month or so. I’ll post results.

I am sure you will achieve you h.p. goals, beautiful job. I would be a buyer on a set of those valve covers if anyone has a set laying around. hey does 200 where does your rear oil port A.N. hose go? and what about the carb p.c.v. hose?

Been doing a little powder coating and experimenting with some decals for my brake calipers. Thought I'd make them match my valve covers. Got them all stripped and polished the "faces".

Primed. When the primer just started to flow out, I removed the decal.

Carefully applied another decal and as color coat started to flow out, removed decal.

Ready to reassemble the calipers. Red metallic is difficult to photograph, but the polished detomaso shows off well.

last one.

That looks sweet.

You must be almost ready to drive!

Chuck, just trying to catch up to you! Will dyno motor in January. We will compare motor notes then.

Hey John -

Does that McRobb fuel pump interfere with the Oil Filter?

I probably will get one of those. I went through 4 fuel pumps on Dyno Day, and they all couldn't keep up!

I heard that you can get the fittings coming out of the bottom... Necessary?

Thanks-

No, doesn’t interfere with oil filter. Also, you can adapt pump for higher hp motors if needed.

quote:

Originally posted by d8omaso:
No, doesn’t interfere with oil filter. Also, you can adapt pump for higher hp motors if needed.

John -

Knowing you, you already purchased the 1100 HP option for the pump, and it's at the powdercoaters with all the fuel lines and the engine mount bolts!



Chuck

No, started with the 550...should be enough! here is a pic of pump with oil filter. I went with a K&P and its a little smaller than a normal filter, but still enough room for standard filter. Merry Christmas!

I see that you still very often use mechanical fuel pumps, why do not you use electric one?

Rene,
The only reason on this build is I wanted the exterior of engine to be true to the era. The carbs, valve covers, etc were all available when car was originally built. If I was doing fuel injection, then would’ve gone electric.

How do the intake ports align on your engine? The reason that I ask is, with the Ford aluminum heads, the bottom of the intake ports are raised 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch from what the 4v iron heads use.

The only way one could use a high port intake with an original 4v iron head would be to use an aluminum plate to block the bottom of the open port.

The 3x2 intake is made for the iron 4v heads.

I have never used the TFS heads so I don't know if that was a problem for you or not? Did you need to make adapter plates?

Here is the difference in the ports. Top is the 4v.

Doug,
Don't know what the aluminum ford heads are like but when I lined the gaskets up to the head and intake they lined up well!

Beautiful engine! Nice touch on those calipers.

Bezels rechromed, lazered graphics on switch and plated bulb holders...reassembled and ready to install.

WOW, such detail, makes it nice!

quote:

lazered graphics on switch

Can you provide info/link about how this was done?

Larry

why did you chance the green lenses?

great lasered decals.
now it's a trick to mount them.
Simon

All my switches on central gauge panel have graphics on them and I wanted my dash switches to match...I removed the green lens and polished off the words wiper and wash. They will illuminate the graphics. The graphics are not decals...the switch is painted white and then painted black over that. A laser is then used to create the graphic by removing the black to show the white beneath. I played around with this using my dental laser, but if you have similar projects go to:
Stickyrxrs.com

Getting ready to reskin the interior and wanted to have a music option without having a traditional radio (reason why I don't want a radio below). These are the seats that will get recovered and have speakers in head rest.

Removed control panel from seat to modify blank switch.

Found this little circuit board that is a 15W amp for the head rest speakers and a bluetooth receiver. I removed the on/off/volume switch from the board and mounted into blank space.

I now have "zone audio"! Volume and power are now controlled by each seat occupant and they can listen to their individual desired source... and the circuit board fits nicely into the seat below the control panel.

The reason I don't want a traditional radio!

I will post a follow up picture of the recovered seat in a couple of months...and no Rocky, there wont be any of that beautiful orange on the seats!

I am very interested in your rework of the Recaro seats. I have been seeking information and sources of materials, but it seems to be scarce.

I have a set of the Recaro spectrums like yours, but even older, that do not have the electric controls or headrest speakers. Mine are all manual.

There is an eBay seller of the cloth material, but only in grey - silver - black; I wondered if it was decent quality.

Anyway, I will share whatever I can find out. Here is the only pic I have of mine:

UFO-LOW
It's difficult to source parts for these. I was lucky to find a few pieces on ebay...like the "star" adjusting knobs and the round covers for these. Switches come available on occasion and almost impossible to find the blank switch cover (had to make sure my mod was precise as I only had one shot at it!). Leather is of my own choice and not original Recaro.

Can you post some pics of the new seat tracks and mounting brakets

Working on that right now. should have fabbed in the next couple of weeks.

I really do think you need to consider keeping the orange inserts.

Those actually look really cool in s '70s kind of way...

(You would want to clean them up a little)....

Rocky

Hey John -

I found this for you. It doesn't mention the option for the candy apple red finish, but....

From: PI News Winter 1984 Vol 11 No 2

Adding a Thermotion electronic valve to 7041. I know this has been done, but I am doing the activation a little different.

I bought a 10kOhm slide potentiometer to control the valve.

I drilled 4 small holes for the potentiometer tabs to fit into.

I mounted the pot. into the holes on the inside of heater control box. I bent the 4 tabs to secure the pot.

Confirmed full slide of pot. with valve control arm.

drilled small notch in control arm to keep retaining spring from sliding. I can now have the valve in the engine bay (and remove the interior mechanical one) without changing the original appearance.