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Dear Friends, long time I was not writing anything here, because my Pantera works well, and we have plenty of work in the workshop. On our drift engine LS7 Customers, we usually install the davis craig water pump. So I have one left over and want to built it in the pantera as its main pump. I also want to relocate the generator, so that we are able to mount a flat panel in the middle beteen the seats , because my girl friend have those nice long legs , and she have no space for sitting in the car.  Actually I cunsturcted a 3D print , wich is looking like an edelbrock water pump , but without turbine impeller and the hose connector is changed to 32mm diameter. It have a bypass to the third hole at the termostat. The question is : will it work ? Or will it burn the valves ?



PS : I will try to upload some pics in the nex few days

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Peter, I'm all in favor of keeping long-legged passengers comfortable!  If you relocate the stock alternator to the area above and back 1" from its usual place ala' the GT-5 and later cars bracket, the alt' can be driven by the unused second crank pulley groove. That move can allow a MUCH smaller custom firewall blister around the water pump only, and the passenger seat will then adjust all the way back to the firewall. She will be happy.

If you find or duplicate a stock post-1980 engine bracket for the alt, smog pump and A/C, your stock alternator will bolt on in place of the seldom used smog pump, with 1" cut off the front of the alt's casting mount and the cut aluminum piece used as a spacer on the stock bolt. There's an illustrated article on this in the POCA Newsletter Archives some 30 years ago. My wife used to drive our Pantera about 50% of the time so the 'long-legged passenger' was often me!

Happy cruising!

I relocated the alternator as described and went with a custom water pump pulley that moved that drive belt back. I was almost able to eliminate the bubble completely and I removed the stock bubble and used 3/4" thick plywood for the bulkhead.

That with lowering the floor pans 2" and going to the electric parking brake and removing the original parking brake handle and mounting brackets completely changed the nature of the cabin.

I am 6'2" as well and no, I am not going to post a picture of my legs.

Thanks for the bracket solution for the alternator, but what about the electric water Pump?  It only use 10 A and works better than any mechanical water Pump. Above 3500 rpm a mechanical water Pump is ineffizient. What Happens when we remove our Robert Shaw Thermostat and mount a restrictor Plate with a small hole ?  Davis Craig have a Waterpump replacement Kit for the Windsor, and I think the Bolt patern sheme is the same than on the Cleveland.

Most if not all known electric water pumps simply don't deliver enough flow. A stock 375-bhp 351-C takes a minimum of 50 cubic ft/min of coolant flow to stay cool and I don't know of any electrics that pump that much. Most are around 30-35 cfm- good for dyno tests and drag racing but not road work. A large aluminum radiator will help by noticeably increasing water flow.

If you drive slowly and sedately- like around town, an electric pump will work, but on the open road where a Pantera excels, the engine will get hotter and hotter, until you're forced to slow down. And if you have a modified engine, the overheating happens quicker. On a 150 mile trip to another city, one e-pump user could not exceed a steady 70 mph. And his e-pump needed firewall mods to fit. If you're driving in a pack of friends, they will get tired of waiting for you.

A stock iron pump weighs 16 lbs while an aluminum aftermarket one that pumps the same volume weighs 8 lbs. The stock cast iron pump pulley weighs 3 lbs while an aluminum one weighs less than a pound. Pulleys are easy to make on a small lathe, in any ratio you like to tune pump cavitation out.

One person has an issue with an electric water pump and it becomes folklore!

50 cubic feet/min = 375 gal/min, unless you are towing a water bowser no pump you can fit in your Pantera will deliver that!

Overheating is typically in traffic with low to no flow over the radiator and engine idling i.e. mechanical pump at slow rpm. This is where an electric booster pump coupled with a PWM controller is a real benefit. At highway speeds the combination of higher RPM and airflow over the radiator should not lead to overheating, or you have other issues.

I did exactly what Peter is proposing on a GT40 stripped out the guts of a mechanical water pump welded over the shaft hole and installed an electric pump to eliminate the engine intrusion into the cabin. But personally I prefer the combination of mechanical with an electric booster and Davies Craig booster is a flow through pump so ideal for that application.

First of all , thanks for the answers and of course the sexy legs 😃

About the gallons of water with a mechanical Pump:

You do Not need this!

We have Drift Cars and street  Cars ( Most of them with whipple charged Ls7 engineer) with only one Davis Craig Pumps and this works perfect.

Even I think that  Georg Pence have written in a old thread that the Waterpump is inefficient abouve 3500rpm because the water pass to fast the Radiator. The only Point is : how could this thing works in a Cleveland?  Normaly I would say : Close the Bypass and it should Work?! 

But I know some Mustang drivers smoked theire exhaust valves , so I am a little bit affraid to try it.

Joules : yes it works perfect in combination!

I did exactly what Joules just mentioned; an electric booster at the outlet of the rad., combined with a mechanical pump. I used a Stewart electric pump because if they fail, they fail "open". I never thought it was possible for a Pantera's cooling system to work so well. I did this on the advice of Stewart Components, who make very high performance mechanical water pumps for NASCAR, etc. They thought, pumping coolant through the Pantera's 20' of tubing was too much to ask of any mechanical water pump. They thought it must cavitate badly at higher RPMs. Their suggested solution was an electric booster pump. They also said to remove as much restriction to flow as possible. Interestingly, they advised against multi-pass radiators, as they created too much restriction.   

Peter, if you are determined to go the electric pump route, you might consider using two of them. One at the motor and a second at the outlet of the rad. Speak to the manufacturer first. A second pump might be completely unnecessary. I have heard it's best to remove the thermostat when using an electric water pump. The PWM controller simply runs the pump at it's slowest speed until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. From there, it speeds up or slows down the pump to maintain a stable coolant temperature. That's the theory anyway! If you were to do that, with a 351C, you'd need to block off the bypass. 

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