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Hey guys.
Looking to complete a long awaited winter project soon. I want to install my a/c and mount the condenser in the front.
I want to retain the use of the original evaporator and I have a fairly new compressor.
The vendors offer a "kit". Are they any good?
Should I have new custom lines made?
Should I use the old style flair connection?I guess I have to with the compressor and original evap?
I have a lay down rad. I know it will be tight installing the condenser and dryer, so any pics might save me some time.
Thanks in advance.
Will
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If anyone could post pics of the condenser and drier mounted in the front, I would appreciate it.
Also, what size condenser would work in the front? Supplier/part #?
There is a condenser on ebay that is the exact replacement for a pantera. Im not putting it in the original spot, so should I look for a bigger/different one??
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DeTomas...1#ht_2364wt_1165Will
Never one to shy away from answering a question that wasn't asked, I don't see the need to move the condenser up front. My orig rear condenser A/C works well in French summer, most of the time with the AC knob not turned all the way (too cold). And if you move your condenser up front, I assume close to the radiator? If so, having the condenser up front can make the engine hotter. And the radiator can make the condenser hotter, it's just best to have them far from each other, right? A properly working rear A/C works best IMHO. Sorry Wink
You and every other car built in the world has the condenser in front of the rad.

I have a rear mounted condenser on one of my Panteras and it works fine. However, I have recently installed front mounted condensers on two cars I assisted restoring, and I am now doing a third on my second car. I have 180 degree exhaust that forces my hand.

Regardless, I would front mount anyway. The airflow is so superior. I would think the only cooling issue would be at idle. The two previous installations, I did, used two pusher and two sucker fans. Almost enough force to move the car forward w/o the engine :^). Perhaps a bit of overkill; but, we are talking Houston, TX. I am going with only two 14" suckers on my current install. We'll see how well that works.
Hi Will,

Vintage Air Receiver-Dryer w/pressure cutout switch. Part number 07323-VUC.

I did use O-ring fittings and had all the hoses made locally. The nice thing is the modern hoses are barrier hoses and are much smaller in OD... My system uses r134a and is as cold as the factory air!

Take care, Scott
quote:
Can the evaporator and fan be replaced without removing the dash? How much work is it to replace these?


The dash must be removed to replace the evaporator. It is a bit or work but a lot easier that some other cars. The dash is only held in by 6 screws (if I remember correctly). Basically, two main screws on either end and then 4 or so screws running upward along the foot-well edge.

Once the dash is out the evaporator is EASY to change. I would say it is a weekend job including beer breaks...
quote:
Im looking for a diagram of the routing of hoses and sizes between condenser, drier, compressor and evaporator.
I believe they are #6 and #8 fittings/hoses??


The #6 hose runs from the Receiver-Dryer to the Expansion Valve. The #8 hose goes from the Compressor to the Condenser. I ran a 5 foot #8 hard line under the car for most of this connection. The #10 hose runs from the Compressor to the Evaporator.

The obvious is dont use anything from the old system ... and be sure to mention R134a as the refrigerant your using. Because the hoses and gaskets / o rings are different because the chemical make up of the refrigerant is different.

The old system with R12 has ammonia and is compatible with mineral oil, while R134a is compatible with synthetic oil that contains alcohol.

The bad news they are talking about changing the refrigerant in autos AGAIN ...
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