Any ideas on how to better align seat, steering wheel and pedals? Body is stripped. Thanks
I seem to remember this was addressed during this build: https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/new-pantera-project.
Dr E, about 30 years ago, one of our U.S club racers found that a stock early driver's seat and its rails could be pushed about 2" further toward the console. The passenger seat is hopeless unless the entire e-brake system is redone like on the post-'80s cars, or a custom seat base is crafted around the e-brake lever weldment. After a time, he found an aftermarket driver's seat that was narrower and could go even further towards the console. He stopped there.
The steering wheel ass'y is held to the lower dash frame with a simple clamp so if really necessary, modifying the clamp could shift the wheel inboard on its existing u-joints. But then of course the speedo & tach would be offset outboard relative to the driver, perhaps in an unpleasant way for visibility while driving. A whole custom dash would be necessary to restore stock visibilty.
As far as the pedals, that would probably require a complete new pedal plate with everything on the plate offset inboard. Depending on what size your feet are, the front end of the welded console structure (which is structural) might need to be severely modified for gas pedal foot-clearance.
Or you could get more used to the stock position and avoid most of this effort. It certainly didn't hamper successful Pantera racers, back in the day. Good luck.
Thanks Husker and thanks Boss for your valuable inputs. I’m going to go as far as shifting the seat towards the console. The rest is way over my head.
Looking at those pics of the interior stripped out, it occurs to me that the handbrake mounting boss might be able to be moved forward enough to put it in front of the passenger seat?
If you are going to lower your floor pans, my recommendation would be to put in power seats. You can tie that in with Corvette seats using a 'vette power seat platform.
I built in a Honda Civic adjustable height devise for the steering column and pushed the steering wheel as far forward as the directional switch operation would allow.
I also moved the pedals forward 1-1/2".
One thing that I did find is that you need to retain the original throttle pedal because of the strange twist they put in it. Current replacement pedals that don't have that twist will not work.
Also the adjustable column in this car is a bit redundant once you put the wheel where you want it, unless there are going to be multiple drivers. The pedals may also be too far forward for shorter people.
Dr E, be sure to use the 4 stock seat rail shims under the rails when you move the seat(s) sideways. They are used to give a firm surface, to be sure you don't tighten down on the compressible carpet. This will bow the seat rails and cause them to NOT move back & forth freely to adjust for your comfort. Some omit them to lower the seats a bit, then find they need a pry-bar to adjust the seats!
I recently reworked my seat rails. Are the shims you mention thick black oval-shaped washers? I only found them under the passenger seat, which was a b***h to get out as it didn't want to move at all. To avoid any chance of the rails bending, I cut lengths of 1/4' thick steel and installed them between the rails and the floor, and between the rails and the holes in the seat. I may have lost a bit of headroom but figure the carpet will compress further in the coming months. I also put in new wheels cut from Delrin plastic, per the advice of this great forum. The seats glide now!
No- they were aluminum discs about 1" OD x 1/2" thick with a single hole thru them. Your black plastic ones sound like substitutes, which is fine as long as they are rigid enough to keep the rails up off the soft carpeting.
Its possible to use wide, flat metal spacers such as yours to shift the passenger seat and its rails towards the door, which along with some fiddling with the steel firewall door blister, can allow the right seat to move much further back for more (skewed) leg room.
One problem seen with seat customization is, the metric seat bolts may extend further thru the welded nuts in the floor, such that the exposed ends get banged up and won't thread back thru the nuts. Trying with a bigger wrench sometimes breaks the nut-welds free, causing much effort to fix. Loose seats aren't safe nor comfortable.