aluminium heads

I have a friend who is using these from Edelbrock. With the stock hydraulic cam, they are as good as any.

http://www.edelbrock.com/autom...ormer-rpm-351c.shtml

They are not going to flow anywhere near what the Ford Motorsport A3 or C302 ported heads do, BUT if you are not going to run a complimentary camshaft with those heads, it won't matter.

The Edelbrocks will crispen up your street performance. They will be restrictive on a track though.

http://www.edelbrock.com/autom...ormer-rpm-351c.shtml

I'm using the Trick Flow with good results

Thanks Guys

Italford, what cam are you using with the Trickflows to get the good results and which size chamber did you go for, see they offer two different sizes for the 351C.

I am running big bore headers and want to keep them as is so did the Trickflow heads bolt straight on.

Cheers
Horace

Horace,

I went with the Edelbrock aluminum heads for the reasons you describe - I wasn't building a monster engine or track car, and the Edelbrocks were significantly less expensive than CHI's and didn't require the use of special intakes or exhaust, I wanted to reuse my Ansa GTS headers/mufflers, and the TrikFlow heads were not available when I bought mine.

FWIW, I did have my Edelbrock heads ported and installed larger valves (2.11 Int/1.65 Exh vs. Std. Edelbrock 2.05/1.60). Also, they have a nice 60cc combustion chamber, very similar to a late model LS head. I'm using forged dished (16cc) pistons for a 10.65:1 compression ratio, and run crappy California 91 octane gas without any pinging.

My Cam is a custom hydraulic roller with the following specs:
Duration @ .050: 226 int /233 exh
Lift: .576" int / .586" exh
LSA: 110

My cam grinder estimated the engine will make between 400-450 horsepower. Three different desktop dyno programs put my engine between 430-550hp (yeah, one was very optimistic). To be honest, I don't care about horsepower. My criteria when designing the cam was to have 390-420 ft.lbs. of torque from 1500-5500 rpm. This engine is a lot of fun to drive. And it really comes alive between 4000-6000 RPM.

As soon as I gut my Ansa mufflers I plan to dyno tune the engine. At that time I can post some actual horsepower and torque numbers.

Horace, if your current engine uses domed pistons with open chamber heads, those will need to be changed to fit any closed chamber heads. SVO heads or any with raised/relocated exhaust ports for better performance will not fit Pantera headers without a LOT of work. Been there and done that; not an easy mod. Finally, spend some time to get the pushrod geometry right with new heads, which will also need hardened pushrods to work with hardened guide plates. And please- change any multi-groove valves in your engine for single groove one-piece valves! Stock valves WILL break eventually, wrecking the motor beyond hope.

No its an old smog motor with dished pistons, very low compression, so will not be keeping hold of them either. Good news, the block is clean and its a 4 bolt main.

Read numerous articles and forums on these ally heads recently and the more you read the more confusing it gets. Plusses and minuses on all the heads whether Edelbrock and Trickflow from the USA or CHI and AFD from Aus. Getting very close to having to make a decision one way or the other

Could be wrong but it seems the early 351C 2v Trickflows were left behind a bit with performance and flow rates by the CHI and AFD. However the later Trickflows seem to be much improved with +300 flow rates similar to the AFD and CHI, would that be fair to say.

Whichever route I take I think I will stick with the 2v as opposed to the 4V as do not want to be messing around with intake spacers and the like.

I had a set of worked Aussie 2v quench on my first Pantera years ago with a 290 hyd flat tappet cam and the car was a pleasure to drive, but when you hit the pedal the low end torque was superb.

The car will never see a track only street so would not mind trying to replicate that performance. However I do like the idea of a roller hyd cam. Had a Ford Racing X303 on my 302 and again this worked superb with the Trickflows I had fitted.

Thanks for the info guys and happy thanksgiving over there today

Horace

AFD 4VS are bolted on my Fontana block and I think they work well. Headers are the europe GTS ones and they bolted right on. As mentioned above it is very important to do the push rod lenght job right- I had to cut and weld the guide plates for the right position.
I wonder if this is needed if you use shaft mounted roller rockers insted of the regular ones?!
Anders

quote:

Originally posted by SF:

... I had to cut and weld the guide plates for the right position ... I wonder if this is needed if you use shaft mounted roller rockers insted of the regular ones?!

Anders

No, not with the T&D Machine rockers or Yella Terra YT6321 rockers.

There are several advantage to using those rockers, the two main advantages being (1) the capability to adjust the rocker geometry with the heads sitting on the work bench and (2) rocker geometry is independent of push rod length. Once you use this style of rocker you'll never want to use a push rod guided rocker system again.