My amp meter is constantly bouncing between 0 and +75. Does it about 1.5x per second. Only time it settles down is after it has been running for a while.
Does this mean there is a new alternater in my future?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Hi QuickKitty,
Check out the forums for the help but here is the scoop. IMHO If everything is tight in the circuit like mine is... the battery needs charging it is not up to full charge... mine does the same thing. Now here is how you fix it first remove the terminals from your battery remove the amp meter and check the connections to insure they are not loose. While you are at it clean the ground connections under the dash. While you have the amp gauge out span the two connections with a brass shim. All of the current of the alternator goes thru the amp meter and if the connections get loose the needle shakes. Check out the Pantera Place website. Now the last bit of info I have is Where in Fl are you? My toys are on the east coast and I work on the west. Maybe we could meet and do a tech session.
Check out the forums for the help but here is the scoop. IMHO If everything is tight in the circuit like mine is... the battery needs charging it is not up to full charge... mine does the same thing. Now here is how you fix it first remove the terminals from your battery remove the amp meter and check the connections to insure they are not loose. While you are at it clean the ground connections under the dash. While you have the amp gauge out span the two connections with a brass shim. All of the current of the alternator goes thru the amp meter and if the connections get loose the needle shakes. Check out the Pantera Place website. Now the last bit of info I have is Where in Fl are you? My toys are on the east coast and I work on the west. Maybe we could meet and do a tech session.
one more thing with a volt meter and the car off check the voltage at the battery terminals (about 12.2 VDC.. mine is when I don't slow charge the battery by the time I get home to play with my toys), then with the volt meter still hooked up watch the voltage drop when you hit the key to crank the car ( volt drop should not go below 9.5 to 10 volts depending on the speed of the meter you use. A fully charged battery should not drop more than 1 volt from 12.5 VDC to 11.5) and start it.
Then with the car running the two schools of thought are 13.7 -14.5 VDC if the battery is fully charged
or
The one I use is 1 volt over the at rest voltage of the battery which should come up to the 13.7-14.5 volts after it is driven for a while to bring the battery up to charge. I do a before and after I get back meter check if I have driven the car for a couple of hours.
PS if the voltage drop is large and the battery is good add a second ground strap from the trans to the frame in the back it helped mine.
Then with the car running the two schools of thought are 13.7 -14.5 VDC if the battery is fully charged
or
The one I use is 1 volt over the at rest voltage of the battery which should come up to the 13.7-14.5 volts after it is driven for a while to bring the battery up to charge. I do a before and after I get back meter check if I have driven the car for a couple of hours.
PS if the voltage drop is large and the battery is good add a second ground strap from the trans to the frame in the back it helped mine.
Hi Joe
Thanks for the info. saved me a alternator.
I am in Cape Coral, near Ft. Myers.
Coming to find there are a few panteras in our area.
Jay
Thanks for the info. saved me a alternator.
I am in Cape Coral, near Ft. Myers.
Coming to find there are a few panteras in our area.
Jay
I second what Joe said to check, I would also check or even replace the external regulator if you are still using one. The old coil/points inside the older style units were known to be quite erratic at times.
The ammeter wiring mentioned above is a known trouble point.
Have fun,
Angelo
The ammeter wiring mentioned above is a known trouble point.
Have fun,
Angelo
Most likely you have an original charging system 60 amp with an external regulator. There is not a fix using the stock system. If you change to a new internal regulated alternator (I ran GM on all of the GT5-S AmeriSport cars and still run GM style with the bulkhead reduction kits) your amp gauge bounce will disappear as well as excessive battery draw at idle.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Kirk,
Will the GM alternators tie into the "gen" idiot light on the dash? Is there a rewiring diagram available?
Will the GM alternators tie into the "gen" idiot light on the dash? Is there a rewiring diagram available?
Yes it will but you need the right one---This would be considered a 2 wire. I have them built with a low voltage electric choke pin along with the dash light. Remember if you're using a GM style case, you'll have to add a 1" spacer on the back side of the mount bolt. If you need more info, drop me a note a kre@adelphia.net I'm not on line that much---that is a better address for a faster answer. Good luck
Kirk
Kirk