Has anyone had any luck reversing the fan direction on the condensor from sucking to pushing the air out of the rear of the car?
I just reversed the motor by swapping the wires, but it doesn't seem to improve the A/c temperature.
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That's a tough battle that little fan is fighting back there.
Michael
Michael
Thanks Ron!
Good reading. I changed mine back to sucking air in today.
Emery
Good reading. I changed mine back to sucking air in today.
Emery
My fans blow out the back. The 134 work great. I better not brag too much about how well it works... I hate to tell you all that about 2 weeks ago, I noticed a little dirt near a fitting. I realized it was a small leak..when I tightened it up, I twisted the aluminum and it blew. I was jumping up and down and my freind asked if I was OK and, I was unhurt phisicly but sick inside. I have since replaced the hose, gotten rid of the fitting and put 2 cans of 134 back in and it works great again. I ordered the condenser from ackits.com to fit the Mitsubishi fans and shroud. It utilizes a Sandeen comp. At one time I had a high pressure switch to cycle the comp, but it opened up to early at 250 psi. I belive the system needs at least 320 psi to work properly with 134. It still uses the freeze sensor to cycle.
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Nice set up! what did the parts cost you? I do think the stock condensor is the weak link.
The fans and shrowd are Mitsubisi salvage yard cheap. The condenser was less than a $100 from ackits.com in Arozona. It is called double cross flow, high efficent. The hose ends were NAPA from their cooling cataloge. I never vaccumed it.... I have the fill port under the car at the compressor. When you can run a water hose on the condenser and the system begins to cool you can bet that the condenser is the weak link. This was one of my firt modifications to my car. COLD air was a priority and I am very happy with the results. I don't think you can have too big a condenser in our cars. The condenser measures 22x13 inches. If it works in the HotLanta south it will work anywhere.!
Thanks for the info. What is your temerature spread...say if it's 90 degrees outside what is it blowing inside??? 30-40 temp spread? More?
Emery, I recall reading years back that the besttempature difference you can hope for is 20 degrees. This is due to the heat exchange limit of current technology.
I get 30 degrees spread in the Helicopter at work on a good day at sea level! Hee hee!
Anybody else getting more than 20 degree spread in their cars? I'm only getting 20-23 degrees spread.
Anybody else getting more than 20 degree spread in their cars? I'm only getting 20-23 degrees spread.
Humidity will impact an a/c system's ability to cool the air. Given everything else is equal, such as the ambient air temp, the condition of the a/c system, etc, a Pantera in Hawaii, Georgia or Texas will not cool the air as much as a Pantera in Las Vegas, New Mexico, Arizona. (Ahhhh, but it's a dry heat!)
I have lost my notes from the spring when I serviced the a/c in my Pantera, all I can remember is that it was blowing air in the 40s with the ambient air temp in the 80s. My system is stock with the exception of a rotary compressor.
Your cool headed friend on the PIBB, George
I have lost my notes from the spring when I serviced the a/c in my Pantera, all I can remember is that it was blowing air in the 40s with the ambient air temp in the 80s. My system is stock with the exception of a rotary compressor.
Your cool headed friend on the PIBB, George
quote:Originally posted by george pence:
Given everything else is equal, such as the ambient air temp, the condition of the a/c system, etc, a Pantera in Hawaii, Georgia or Texas will not cool the air as much as a Pantera in Las Vegas, New Mexico, Arizona.
It's been a long time since college physics but it would seem to me that the opposite may be true. Any engineers care to comment because I could be dead wrong.
The specific density of dry air is less than humid air, so, as a result there is less mass to transfer the heat to. That's one of the reasons why water works better than air to cool an engine.
Jeff
6559
Jeff,
its not density or mass, it's BTUs! Water's latent heat of condensation is 970 btu's per pound. The a/c system is cooling the water vapor in the air at the same time it is cooling the air. A big portion of the capacity of the a/c system is being used to remove heat from the water vapor.
George
its not density or mass, it's BTUs! Water's latent heat of condensation is 970 btu's per pound. The a/c system is cooling the water vapor in the air at the same time it is cooling the air. A big portion of the capacity of the a/c system is being used to remove heat from the water vapor.
George
I don't know about all the BTU conversion factors and the like...but I do know what 38 degree air feels like when it blows on my face. It is only about 70 ambeient right now. I belive even when it is 90 I can still get 40 degree A/C. I owe it all to my oversize condenser and fans blowing ouy the back of the car.
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I also upgraded to what appears to be the same parallel flow condenser as lastpushbutton when I went to a 134a rotary compressor. I fabricated the shroud for the larger conderser and mounted a 1000cfm fan that pulls air from the outside. I got 38 degrees out of the vent in the shaded garage on a 70-something day when I first installed. I typically can get 30-40 degree less than ambient even during humid 90 degree weather here in the Dayton OH area. I have never tried blowing air through the condenser. Seems to me that the air at the back of the beast is much cooler than the air in the engine compartment.
Ron
Ron
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Thats right Ron,.You know..the condenser is why it works. It would be easy to change the fan direction, I have not been using my luggage tray with it operating yet, I know the car sucks the ground and I'm shure it pulls air in to my intake side of the fans. I may consider a reversing switch that could be selected IN/OUT depending on conditions. Interstate VS low speed cruising.
Nice set up also. How much fabrication did you have to do to get teh shroud to bolt on and fit?
It seems if you super enlarge the rear condensor, you will get decent cold air like a regular car.
Anybody else got a great shot & component list/cost of your modification? Let's see Em!
It seems if you super enlarge the rear condensor, you will get decent cold air like a regular car.
Anybody else got a great shot & component list/cost of your modification? Let's see Em!
My plans are to relocate the condenser to the front of the car, in front of the radiator. I will install as big a condenser as will fit. I'm planning this to enable the installation of the aftermarket trunk tub that has a flat bottom, for more luggage capacity.
But I agree with all of you, a larger condenser & more fan (more cfm) should make a world of difference in the oem location. That little oem condnser & "weezer" of a fan is definitely a limitation.
Your cool friend on the PIBB, George
But I agree with all of you, a larger condenser & more fan (more cfm) should make a world of difference in the oem location. That little oem condnser & "weezer" of a fan is definitely a limitation.
Your cool friend on the PIBB, George
"I may consider a reversing switch that could be selected IN/OUT depending on conditions. Interstate VS low speed cruising"
Now that reversing switch sounds like a great idea!
Now that reversing switch sounds like a great idea!
quote:Originally posted by hawaii:
Nice set up also. How much fabrication did you have to do to get teh shroud to bolt on and fit?
The condenser is actually not that much bigger than the original but is much more efficient. I fabricated the shroud by first building a mockup out of cardboard. Then I laid it out flat onto some 18-gauge body metal, cut and bent to shape, and tack welded it up. I welded tabs to the shroud that capture the lower mounting holes of the original shroud and bumper bolts at the top. The shroud is rubber mounted to the condenser. I used nutserts in the shround for bolting on the fan. Here's a shot that better shows the mounting tabs.
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quote:Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
My fans blow out the back. The 134 work great. I better not brag too much about how well it works... I hate to tell you all that about 2 weeks ago, I noticed a little dirt near a fitting. I realized it was a small leak..when I tightened it up, I twisted the aluminum and it blew. I was jumping up and down and my freind asked if I was OK and, I was unhurt phisicly but sick inside. I have since replaced the hose, gotten rid of the fitting and put 2 cans of 134 back in and it works great again. I ordered the condenser from ackits.com to fit the Mitsubishi fans and shroud. It utilizes a Sandeen comp. At one time I had a high pressure switch to cycle the comp, but it opened up to early at 250 psi. I belive the system needs at least 320 psi to work properly with 134. It still uses the freeze sensor to cycle.
Lastpushbutton
Can you tell me what model and year Mitsubishi this came out of? Also, what was needed to fabricate to mount this to the car?
Please post more photos or send to emery@hawaii.rr.com if possible.
Thanks!