Axle problem?

quote:

---

Originally posted by David:
While checking for play in the rear wheel bearings I noted some play which I think I have narrowed down to the splined portion between the axle shaft and the flange. I checked the u joints and can't detect play there. If I rotate the half shaft back and forth while holding the outer u joint firmly I will feel some free play when the car is on the ground on the drivers side. I feel no play at the passenger side. Is this sign of impending failure? The car seems to ride fine and doesn't make noise. Is this a normal amount of freeplay?

---

The big axle nut has to be thigtened. Remove the 4 bolts that holds the shaft, and you can see the nut that holds the stubaxle yoke. Thighten the nut to 700 fp.
This takes the proper tools. You can see the tool at my site. http://hem.passagen.se/hemipanter/
Under "rollbars"
Goran Malmberg

Coincidently, I am just now in the midst of replacing my axles, (or 1/2 shafts), for what sounds like the same problems. The splines in the axles were worn and allowed the two halves to rotate and make a 'clunk' noise. Eventually they began to flex and vibrate at mid-high speeds. So it IS possible you've got the same problem going on.

Thank you. I had a feeling this could be the problem but probably not common. I am planning a suspension update anyway with the new poly bushings this summer. My neighbors always kid me. They ask if I've got it apart again. Some people have hobbies and mine is tinkering and making it "better".

FWIW, I've never seen the splined end of the stub axles wear enough to see movementunless the retaining nut is loose. Incidently, the nut takes a special pin-spanner-wrench to tighten or loosen properly, and your axle may be right or left-hand thread.
There is sometimes a little play in the spider gears inside the differential, or in the inboard stub-axle where it splines into the side gear. Another place is the lower cross-shaft thrugh the lower a-arm & carrier. At that point, there are a pair of thin-wall bronze bushings that likely have not been greased since the car was built in Italy, since one must disassemble the a-arm from the carrier & hand-grease this area.
Finally, although I doubt anyone is strong enough to detect it by hand, the outer stub axle often wears against its bearings, to produce a deep 'wagon-track' in the axle surface. Under power, this acxtually changes rear wheel alignment & accelerates tire wear.
All this stuff requires an experienced eye to determine what if anything should be done. There are the normal Pantera parts vendors scattered across the country that could inspect this condition. Long-distance trouble-shooting is tricky & often unsuccessful.

Today I disconnected the half shaft from the axle flange. The axle flange nut is left handed thread. The assemlbly looks solid enough and has surface rust on the end. It doesn't look like it's ever been disassembled and that funky nut won't spin at all. But, the axle and the flange have a bit of play within the splines, just ever so slight. When the nut is torqued to specs is that a solid assembly with absolutely no movement? And finally where can I rent that special spanner wrench?

quote:

---

But, the axle and the flange have a bit of play within the splines, just ever so slight. When the nut is torqued to specs is that a solid assembly with absolutely no movement? And finally where can I rent that special spanner wrench?[/B]

---

The splines is not a playfree fit. The spline engagement should take a seat to the "driveside" of the spline. Then the flange should remain in this location due to the pressure load of the nut. The nut is of a locking type, so you can not turne it without tools even if loose. If you can move the flange on the axle, the nut does NOT have the proper torque. A loose nut also speeds up the axle wear against the bearing race. Chack that the weel does not bave any radial play in the outer bearing.
Regards
Goran Malmberg

No I cant detect any radial play in the bearing. I'll need to contact a vendor to hopefully rent the tool from them. Hey Goran, don't ya hate it when your at a stop light and some redneck says to you "hey, does that thing have a Hemi?". Thanks for your help everyone.

Yup- Goran's 700 ft-lbs is higher than POCA recommended 300-320 ft-lbs, but trust us. If the nut is tightened to either level, nothing under it will move! Note also that home-garage torque wrenches only go to 150 ft-lbs, so you'll need to rent/buy or borrow either a BIG torque wrench (next size is 0-600 ft-lbs) or a torque multiplier to go along with that socket. This can be a home-fabricated arm as long as your wrench to effectively double the scale reading, or a geared device. The socket is also designed for a 3/4" drive, so you'll probably also need a 3/4-to-1/2" adapter.

< And finally where can I rent that special spanner wrench?
The spanner-socket is over $100 from all Pantera parts suppliers, but many owners buy their own and such are lent out to others at POCA chapter tech sessions or club meetings. What chapter do you belong to? Or failing that, what area of the country do you live in?