Ball Joint Interchange

If true, that would be great. Let us know what you find. I thought I had an interchange for the tie rods as they look the same as Triumph TR7/TR8 parts but upon closer inspection the threads are different (one's is fine, the other coarse).

Dan Jones

That would be a GREAT find if it pans out to be true. Keep us posted.

Bob Eaton

If I'm not mistaken, I concluded that a 62-ish Jag Mark II front upper would also work--may very well be same as Jensens. But I needed only lowers (typical I think for P-cars), so I never followed up on it.

Keep in mind that with proper greasing, stock parts will last a very long time. It is entirely possible to add tall zerk fittings to stock ball joints, right-angle zerks to the tie rod ends and the lower pivot shafts in the rear suspension. The zerks can be added with the parts on the car and takes a Saturday to do at a cost of maybe $20. Total replacement with stock parts exceeds $1000.... The Pantera is not the first production car in which no grease fittings were included, probably for cost reasons. Early-'70s Pintos had none either, so the aftermarket (and Ford) began offering a "kit" for $25 to add them later.

Jack,

I want to add the zerk fittings, but am not sure how to do it without messing up the joints. Is there a reference on how to do this properly?

which zerk fittings?
drill size?
best way to limit depth?
best way to keep metal shavings out of joint?
use lock tight?

anything else?

I looked for the topic in Pantera Place, but didn't see a heading unless it's a subtopic within a broader topic. Is it covered somewhere else?

Ken

Ken, to add zerk fittings, you drill & tap the center of the balljoint or tie-rod end for a 1/4-28 thread. The drill will bit into the nylon below the steel, but will do no harm beyond making a small grease-reservoir. Blow or pick out the shavings- there won't be many as the steel cover is thin. You'll only get about two threads with the tap, but thats really all thats needed as forces are very low on the fittings. No Lock-tite is needed. You need a 'tall' zerk or an extension for the zerk because of the depressed center in the ball joints. Tie-rod ends take std right-angle zerk fittings. All this stuff is available at a good auto parts store (not Kragens or Pep Boys). I wrote this up in the POCA News, I think in '97 when I did my car, but can't find the article. Sorry.