Best Plugs and Wires for a Stock Pantera?

I've always used Autolite #25 plugs. With my Duraspark ignition, I would gap them to .035. I think you can just ask for wires for a 351c Mustang at just about any Auto Parts store?

I'm running MSD 3138 Helicore 8mm Spark Plug Wires and NGK V-Power Sparkplugs (6630 UR4). Folks on this board have recommended gapping the plugs at .050 if you're running an electronic ignition. I have a Mallory Unilite so that's the plug gap I used.
http://www.banzairunnerpantera.com/updates_tuneup.htm

One more thing - These plug wires are not long enough to be used with one of those wire looms that route the wires along the lower outside edge of the valve covers. If you're using that type of wire loom, you might want to order the MSD trim to fit kit.

quote:

Originally posted by garth66:
I'm running MSD 3138 Helicore 8mm Spark Plug Wires and NGK V-Power Sparkplugs (6630 UR4). Folks on this board have recommended gapping the plugs at .050 if you're running an electronic ignition. I have a Mallory Unilite so that's the plug gap I used.
http://www.banzairunnerpantera.com/updates_tuneup.htm

Hey Brother Garth, thanks for that. I just pulled my first two plugs which were Champion RV17YC gapped about about .20.

My 'old' wires were a CarQuest special, 7mm.

Since I'm running Duraspark and Blaster, should I be at .50? I just purchased the Taylor 8mm wires and AutoLite 25s. Let me know... I'm in mid-project!

Thanks to all, please comment openly.

Remarkable.

I pulled all the plugs, all the gaps WAY too tight. Two are gas fouled, soaked and black. A couple of the cap leads aren't buried to the metal, making poor if any connection.

I get "personal" with my engine comparment to get all the plugs out. I've decided I hate cylinder #1, since while extracting that plug, the dipstick goes up my nose. All the new plugs gapped at .38 go in.

I spent half the day cutting the wires to the exact length. The coil wire had been part of the loom for a long time. Don't know if that was original or not, but it was inside a black sheath, taped on each end. The tape is brittle as bug wings and just falls apart.

Once installed and all tidy, I fire it up. Nothing catches on fire. Good. Actually, it started beautifully, idled smoother, revs smoother... could it be? Test drive.

WOW! A transformation has taken place for $80 in plugs and wires. The car - I'm convinced - was running on 6 cylinders. The exhaust note is different, pulls like a train, and is a BLAST to drive. Honestly, this test drive was the most rewarding since I've had it.

It's a zillion degrees in Alabama, my air doesn't work, but a simple 'fix' is like a cool breeze now - - I'm loving this car.

Now, to the clunk in the front end...

Photo of the minor cleaning done to my 'stock' engine compartment. Quality photography not my strong suit...

> Folks on this board have recommended gapping the plugs at .050 if
> you're running an electronic ignition. I have a Mallory Unilite so
> that's the plug gap I used.

That's really bad advice. The Mallory Unilite and others modules like
Pertonix are just points eliminators. They do not increase spark energy
to any great degree. If you want a high energy spark, you'll need to
add a capacitive discharge box of some sort (MSD-6AL, Mallory HyFire,
Crane, etc.). You can test the spark with one of those inexpensive
spark testers that look like a a spark plug with a clear glass body and
a grounding clip. Compare it against an igntion with a known high energy
output. If you are getting a stronger than stock spark out of a Unilite
then I'd wager it has more than the Mallory specified 7 to 9 volts at
the photoelectric eye. Running 12 volts there will make more spark but
the module won't last.

Dan Jones

Nice work on the engine bay!

quote:

Originally posted by A Hudson:
Photo of the minor cleaning done to my 'stock' engine compartment. Quality photography not my strong suit...

Your eyesight must be like mine! Thanks Art, I actually had fun doing that, and for some reason I'm all excited about the 'stock' look though I have a very few nonstandard things done.

If you can believe it, I have a Blue Thunder intake that I MAY PAINT BLUE to hide it. Let the hate mail begin.

Aside from that, I have tons to do under there, and this bulletin board has set a VERY HIGH BAR for a sanitary engine room. Sheesh. But it's fun to do, therapeutic, and I get encouraging words like yours. Thanks again,

quote:

Originally posted by Daniel_Jones:
> Folks on this board have recommended gapping the plugs at .050 if
> you're running an electronic ignition. I have a Mallory Unilite so
> that's the plug gap I used.

That's really bad advice. The Mallory Unilite and others modules like
Pertonix are just points eliminators. They do not increase spark energy
to any great degree. If you want a high energy spark, you'll need to
add a capacitive discharge box of some sort (MSD-6AL, Mallory HyFire,
Crane, etc.). You can test the spark with one of those inexpensive
spark testers that look like a a spark plug with a clear glass body and
a grounding clip. Compare it against an igntion with a known high energy
output. If you are getting a stronger than stock spark out of a Unilite
then I'd wager it has more than the Mallory specified 7 to 9 volts at
the photoelectric eye. Running 12 volts there will make more spark but
the module won't last.

Dan Jones

Dan,
What about Ford Edis, is that a high energy spark system?

Some intimacy with your engine compartment can be avoided by getting your car onto stands and accessing your spark plugs, coil, duraspark box and such, etc. by removing the rear wheels and their splash shields. Only three screws retain the splash shields on each side.
What a difference! I'll never try to work from the top anymore.

> What about Ford Edis, is that a high energy spark system?

Yes, most modern ignition systems are high energy. Not MSD-7 type
high energy but strong enough for most purposes.

Dan Jones

quote:

Originally posted by larryw:
Some intimacy with your engine compartment can be avoided by getting your car onto stands and accessing your spark plugs, coil, duraspark box and such, etc. by removing the rear wheels and their splash shields. Only three screws retain the splash shields on each side.
What a difference! I'll never try to work from the top anymore.

NOW YOU TELL ME! Kidding - I almost can't wait to get in there again... oh, maybe I can. But next time I'll know. Thanks for that. I just looked at the plugs, thought, "I can get to them" and went direct. Didn't think that through.