BLEEDING CLUTCH SYSTEM

Dick,

Sounds like your master cyl may have died, or the speed bleeder is bad.

John

I had another experience, not sure it'll help you. I changed the fluid using a Summit one man bleeder, first pressure air to get the very nasty fluid out, then new brake fluid in. What I found was that I could get a decent pedal but I could still push it more than 1" before there was resistance. Later I had someone help me bleed the old fashioned two man way, and now it's perfect.

My conclusion is that these pressure bleeders can't always get an air pocket pushed through, they might push fluid past it. Only actually using the pedal gets the air pocket pushed through.

Don't know if this helps...

Crap. I just bought a "Motive" pressure bleeder system last night.
Will

Dick, sorry if this is getting off topic, I've seen mixed reviews of the speed bleeders, so I'm following this thread with interest.

Since the topic of pressure bleeders has come into it, does anyone have any thoughts or experience on pressure bleeding vs. vacuum bleeding, and whether one or the other is able to handle them? I was thinking the vacuum bleeder would be a good choice as you don't have to worry about getting a specific cap for each of your vehicles, or having brake fluid under pressure near the car - just a gravity feed bottle to add fluid at one end (looks like a large gerbil's water bottle) and the vacuum unit pulling the old fluid out at the bleeder valve.

And, while it is probably redundant, is there any reason either of the above wouldn't work with speed bleeders?

I've used the Motive pressure bleeder on my Porsche 968 and the Pantera clutch. Even used it on the Pantera brake hardlines after replacing lines and calipers.

Works fabulously on everything. I would recommend a pressure system. Just keep the hoses well connected and in good shape.

Dick, I recently had a problem bleeding my hydraulic clutch in a recently purchased Toyota T100 truck. After changing my clutch disc, pressure plate and T/O bearing, my clutch refused to release. I tried the gravity bleed followed by the 2 man pump and hold method which didn't work after many attempts, still leaving a dead pedal. I purchased a new clutch master and slave and the problem still persisted. Eliminating a bad clutch or master, I purchased a Mity Vac vacuum bleeder. This also didn't work and the same problem persisted. A friend of mine came over to help. He loosened the stop bolts (there were two of them, an upper one for the clutch pedal height and a lower one for floor stop). Sure enough after the first attempt at the bleed, it worked! My friend said that the 1/4 to 1/2 inch of restriction from the lower stop bolt kept the piston from it's full stroke in the bore and allowed air to remain there. I forget if there were any stop screws in the Mangusta, if there are it may be your problem.

Hi everyone, Thanks for all the input.

This message is to let you know the result of my search for a solution to my clutch problem:

After sitting for five months I went to change the fluid in my clutch system and opened the bleeder valve to get about two teaspoons of fluid. The pedal was then completely dead, no resistance.
Using a vacuum pump I tried to get fluid out, nothing happened, the fluid stayed in the reservoir.

Here is what I found,
There were two blockages, one at the bleeder valve in the slave cylinder and one at the end of the tube where fluid from the reservoir enters the master, apparently from age. J DeRyke says that he has seen this often on brake bleeders.

With the master out of the car I decided to rebuild it but Ben Chu suggested replacing it with a new Wilwood that is a direct replacement part from:

SUMMIT RACING, 1-800-230-3030 / TECH INFO, 330-630-0240.
The fittings are 3/8 X 24 and 7/16 X 20, same as in the car.

>MASTER CYLINDER, PART # 260-6087 / COST $47.94 + $10.00 SHIPPING

The fluid in the reservoir is a gravity feed system so the slightest impediment turns into a blockage as the openings are very small.
This means that you really should bleed your brakes and clutch every couple of years at least.
All you need to do is open the bleeder valve with a piece of plastic tubing attached with the other end in a container and have someone pump the pedal until the fluid in the reservoir is down but still above the fluid pick-up. Fill the reservoir and do that until the fluid runs clear at the bleeder valve. Close it and you are done.

________________________________________________________________________
>UPPER BALL JOINT GREASE, VERY IMPORTANT
Also,
Do not forget to grease the top front ball joints. To do that you have to take the front wheels off, remove the three 10mm bolts from the top A-arm, lift the arm and screw a grease fitting into the small hole on the top of the upper ball joint and grease it.

Herb Grass bought a Mangusta, the steering felt a little hard and he had it for three days when the right front ball joint broke. He had it picked up by a car hauler and since he lived only three blocks away they did not tie it down. On the first corner it slid off of the truck as Herb followed. he was horrified.
So, grease your upper ball joints.
DICK RUZZIN