How do you bleed the front brakes on a stock system?
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bdress,
The first thing you do is open the master cylinder and make sure it is full, then close it. Place many rags under and around the master as you are going to bleed the fluid from it and it has to go somewhere! If you can manage to get some kind of plastic catch basin on the rags, that would be good (cutting a 20 oz. soda bottle in half lengthwise may do the trick). Then you 'break' (loosen it from being securely tightened, then 'snug' it back up) the lines that go out of the master cylinder.
BRAKE FLUID IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE AND WILL EAT RIGHT THROUGH PAINT !!! Be careful to well protect painted areas.
Have someone sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm and doesn't get any firmer. On the last pump they should keep pressure on the pedal. When he says, "OK", loosen one of the lines going into the master until the fluid starts to somewhat gush out (maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 turn). The person in the car will feel the pedal start to sink and they should keep pressure on the pedal until it bottoms out. When you see the fluid surge slowing down, tighten the nut up to stop the 'leak'. Have him pump up the pedal again and repeat this cycle about three times for each line going into the master. This will assure that there is no air in the master. Whenever bleeding brake lines, the master should always be bled first!
With no pressure on the brake pedal, open the master and top off the fluid level.
After the master, take off the driver's side front wheel and 'break' the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper. It may help to turn the wheel so that the bleeder screw is easier to work with. Get a small jar and a length of rubber hose that will fit snuggly over the nipple and drape down into the jar (vacuum hose has worked for me). Fill the jar with about an inch or two of brake fluid and make sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid. This is done so that in the event of reversion, the bleeder will suck back fluid instead of air. (Or, you can always just cracked the bleeder and let the fluid fly, but it will be messy!) With the bleeder snug, you and your buddy follow the same procedure as with the master. If you feel you need more than three cycles, do more, but don't forget to periodically check the fluid level!
Top off the fluid level.
Take off the other wheel, and repeat.
It won't take much longer to do the rears, so if you choose to, do the driver's side first, then the passenger's side. You should always start with the master, then do the corners in order from closest to the master, to the farthest. This holds true for any vehicle.
It is always a good idea to change the brake fluid once a year, so if you haven't, or are unsure how old it is, bleeding the entire system until you see clean fluid coming out of each bleeder is one way to do it.
Let us know how you fare.
Michael
The first thing you do is open the master cylinder and make sure it is full, then close it. Place many rags under and around the master as you are going to bleed the fluid from it and it has to go somewhere! If you can manage to get some kind of plastic catch basin on the rags, that would be good (cutting a 20 oz. soda bottle in half lengthwise may do the trick). Then you 'break' (loosen it from being securely tightened, then 'snug' it back up) the lines that go out of the master cylinder.
BRAKE FLUID IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE AND WILL EAT RIGHT THROUGH PAINT !!! Be careful to well protect painted areas.
Have someone sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm and doesn't get any firmer. On the last pump they should keep pressure on the pedal. When he says, "OK", loosen one of the lines going into the master until the fluid starts to somewhat gush out (maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 turn). The person in the car will feel the pedal start to sink and they should keep pressure on the pedal until it bottoms out. When you see the fluid surge slowing down, tighten the nut up to stop the 'leak'. Have him pump up the pedal again and repeat this cycle about three times for each line going into the master. This will assure that there is no air in the master. Whenever bleeding brake lines, the master should always be bled first!
With no pressure on the brake pedal, open the master and top off the fluid level.
After the master, take off the driver's side front wheel and 'break' the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper. It may help to turn the wheel so that the bleeder screw is easier to work with. Get a small jar and a length of rubber hose that will fit snuggly over the nipple and drape down into the jar (vacuum hose has worked for me). Fill the jar with about an inch or two of brake fluid and make sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid. This is done so that in the event of reversion, the bleeder will suck back fluid instead of air. (Or, you can always just cracked the bleeder and let the fluid fly, but it will be messy!) With the bleeder snug, you and your buddy follow the same procedure as with the master. If you feel you need more than three cycles, do more, but don't forget to periodically check the fluid level!
Top off the fluid level.
Take off the other wheel, and repeat.
It won't take much longer to do the rears, so if you choose to, do the driver's side first, then the passenger's side. You should always start with the master, then do the corners in order from closest to the master, to the farthest. This holds true for any vehicle.
It is always a good idea to change the brake fluid once a year, so if you haven't, or are unsure how old it is, bleeding the entire system until you see clean fluid coming out of each bleeder is one way to do it.
Let us know how you fare.
Michael
In the FWIF department.......if you're gonna do this alone, Motive has an outstanding pressure system you can get w/adapters. http://www.apexperformance.net/
We had one for my son's VW, and just got the rectangular adapter w/some ATE SuperBlue. (So I can flush the entire system from blue to their gold)
Bob
We had one for my son's VW, and just got the rectangular adapter w/some ATE SuperBlue. (So I can flush the entire system from blue to their gold)
Bob
Hey Bdress,
A bunch of us are meeting at the Barrington Show Thursday night about 6:00 or 6:30 and more of us are meeting at the Starbucks at the Streets of Woodfield at about 9:30 Sunday morning. We have our own yahoo group. It's the Northern Illinois Pantera group. It like the webring only local. Come by this weekend or sign up. We'll give you a hand with the brake bleeding. Vince
A bunch of us are meeting at the Barrington Show Thursday night about 6:00 or 6:30 and more of us are meeting at the Starbucks at the Streets of Woodfield at about 9:30 Sunday morning. We have our own yahoo group. It's the Northern Illinois Pantera group. It like the webring only local. Come by this weekend or sign up. We'll give you a hand with the brake bleeding. Vince
Hey Vince!
Thanks for your reply. I was travelling and was unable to make the gathering. Is there anything else planned for Sept/Oct, etc? Would you be kind enough to respond to bdress547@msn.com so I don't miss your reply?
Thanks and I look forward to meeting other Pantera owners in the Chicagoland area!
Bob
Thanks for your reply. I was travelling and was unable to make the gathering. Is there anything else planned for Sept/Oct, etc? Would you be kind enough to respond to bdress547@msn.com so I don't miss your reply?
Thanks and I look forward to meeting other Pantera owners in the Chicagoland area!
Bob
Cyboman,
Thanks for your advice on the brake bleeding. It was one of the most detailed and complete responses I've seen to date. Thanks again!
Do you have any guidance on how to replace the brake pads. I have tried to replace the rears and I can't seem to get enough clearance to get the new, thicker pads in. I could grind them down but that would defeat the purpose of putting new pads in. Any thoughts? Would you be kind enough to respond to bedress547@msn.com so I don't miss your response? Thanks again for the advice on the bleeding and any assistace you may offer on the replacement question!
Bob
Thanks for your advice on the brake bleeding. It was one of the most detailed and complete responses I've seen to date. Thanks again!
Do you have any guidance on how to replace the brake pads. I have tried to replace the rears and I can't seem to get enough clearance to get the new, thicker pads in. I could grind them down but that would defeat the purpose of putting new pads in. Any thoughts? Would you be kind enough to respond to bedress547@msn.com so I don't miss your response? Thanks again for the advice on the bleeding and any assistace you may offer on the replacement question!
Bob
quote:Originally posted by Cyboman:
bdress,
The first thing you do is open the master cylinder and make sure it is full, then close it. Place many rags under and around the master as you are going to bleed the fluid from it and it has to go somewhere! If you can manage to get some kind of plastic catch basin on the rags, that would be good (cutting a 20 oz. soda bottle in half lengthwise may do the trick). Then you 'break' (loosen it from being securely tightened, then 'snug' it back up) the lines that go out of the master cylinder.
BRAKE FLUID IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE AND WILL EAT RIGHT THROUGH PAINT !!! Be careful to well protect painted areas.
Have someone sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm and doesn't get any firmer. On the last pump they should keep pressure on the pedal. When he says, "OK", loosen one of the lines going into the master until the fluid starts to somewhat gush out (maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 turn). The person in the car will feel the pedal start to sink and they should keep pressure on the pedal until it bottoms out. When you see the fluid surge slowing down, tighten the nut up to stop the 'leak'. Have him pump up the pedal again and repeat this cycle about three times for each line going into the master. This will assure that there is no air in the master. Whenever bleeding brake lines, the master should always be bled first!
With no pressure on the brake pedal, open the master and top off the fluid level.
After the master, take off the driver's side front wheel and 'break' the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper. It may help to turn the wheel so that the bleeder screw is easier to work with. Get a small jar and a length of rubber hose that will fit snuggly over the nipple and drape down into the jar (vacuum hose has worked for me). Fill the jar with about an inch or two of brake fluid and make sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid. This is done so that in the event of reversion, the bleeder will suck back fluid instead of air. (Or, you can always just cracked the bleeder and let the fluid fly, but it will be messy!) With the bleeder snug, you and your buddy follow the same procedure as with the master. If you feel you need more than three cycles, do more, but don't forget to periodically check the fluid level!
Top off the fluid level.
Take off the other wheel, and repeat.
It won't take much longer to do the rears, so if you choose to, do the driver's side first, then the passenger's side. You should always start with the master, then do the corners in order from closest to the master, to the farthest. This holds true for any vehicle.
It is always a good idea to change the brake fluid once a year, so if you haven't, or are unsure how old it is, bleeding the entire system until you see clean fluid coming out of each bleeder is one way to do it.
Let us know how you fare.
Michael
Bob,
I sent this e-mail to your address listed above, but it came back as a failed delivery:
Bob,
How did you do with the brake bleeding? It's not really difficult at all.
I've owned two different Panteras for the past 7 years and have never changed the brakes on either of them! I haven't even had a reason to take the calipers off. So I'm afraid I can't help you with changing pads.
You'll get the help you need to get it done, just keep watching the responses.
Michael
I sent this e-mail to your address listed above, but it came back as a failed delivery:
Bob,
How did you do with the brake bleeding? It's not really difficult at all.
I've owned two different Panteras for the past 7 years and have never changed the brakes on either of them! I haven't even had a reason to take the calipers off. So I'm afraid I can't help you with changing pads.
You'll get the help you need to get it done, just keep watching the responses.
Michael
I'm a little puzzled about the bleeding at the master. I have been bleeding the system at the wheel cylinders and getting a solid pedal. What am I missing?
Jim, Possibly nothing. If your master was properly charged before and you didn't do anything to cause air to be introduced e.g. disconnecting the line or emptying it, I would think bleeding it wouldn't have any effect.