Pantera Electronics has a brake light switch replacement that is similar to the mechanical switch discussed in this thread but uses a proximity sensor to detect the driver pressing the brake pedal. It also leaves the brake lights on for 2 seconds after the brake pedal has been released.
I did the same conversion on my Deauville with the exact same switch. The Napa switch as an OE replacement for any of the follwing cars.
Almost all Volvo 240s from the 80s and pretty much any BMW from the 70s, 80s and 90s, suchs as E21, E30, E28, E34. The partsnumber from Hella is
| 6DF003263001 |
Chiel
I just completed this swap the other day and it went fairly well! Biggest challenge was selecting the two (smaller) red red/black stripe wires and pulling them back....they were stuck to the other wires..... but the WD 40 thing in the sheathing worked....put a small hole in the sheathing at the top where it enters the car, and sprayed it in both directions.....eventually after pulling with a "smooth" needle nose, no teeth! The wires popped loose and pulled easily while lubed up!
Just a note, in the drawing for the switch bracket, the smaller hole was referenced for a letter drill "O" which many won't have access to, but a 21/64" drill bit from my cheapo Harbor Freight drill selection had one that worked great! Slipped right over the stud!
One last note is that if you needed to have your switch just a little further from the brake pedal arm, you can leave the nut on the rubber stop shaft and the slip the new bracket in place and then add a new nut on top.... I found one off of perhaps an old ball joint bolt for the Mangusta......that went on.....but in the end, I didn't need to do that. Just throwing this out there.
To those that wonder, you do not need to disturb the adjustment for the pedal stop at all doing this job. No need to. The nut, once loosened should spin right off, put your new bracket in place (I added a thin lock nut) and spin the nut back down....done!
Cheers!
Steve
...The Thread is a 1/8" NPT Tapered Thread. If You wish to stay 'Hydraulic', NAPA Auto Parts has a Variety of Them.
MJ
This brake light switch modification was done on my car and I undid it… the wire was cut inside in the footwell… soldering them back together was a real p.i.A!
The Wilwood part did replace the shuttle valve block with the brake light switch and the brake proportioning valve
Attachments
Images (1)
Yours looks neat, and very professional. Looks completely "factory." But I have not had luck with those type of mechanical brake switches at all. As you know, those mechanical switches that operate on brake fluid pressure eventually fail and make a mess of things. At least that's what I have experienced twice, and once with a brand new one I bought from one of our more reputable vendors we all use, which led to the replacement of all my carpeting because I simply could not get that much brake fluid out of them no matter how hard I tried to clean them. I had installed it and within a week it leaked and made a mess of things, as it spurted brake fluid. That's why I eventually switched to the electric one installed behind the brake pedal. At least if that one fails, it is a simple replacement without a mess. I wish you luck and hope yours never fails. I truly mean that.
Yes, you are so right… once there is any leak or spillage of brake fluid it’s a permanent mess if it still has the carpet flooring! When I got my car I pulled the carpet out and found that the paint got eaten away… and surface rust.. (on the battery side)
cleaned everything out, primer, painted then glued 1/16” closed cell foam down and then glued black vinyl on top! No way any liquid can reach the metal and it’s easy to spot if there is a drip… with carpet you never spot it! Easy to wipe off and neutralize it! 
Attachments
Images (1)
What a brilliant idea. Wish I knew about that. Would have saved myself the money for new carpets and paying an automotive upholstery shop to install it. If I ever have to replace my carpets...I won't. 
I'll do what you did. Thank you for the tip.