I do not think my alternator is generating enought power when I run with the lights on.
Can anyone tell me anything about this motocraft alternator? amp? internal or external regulator?
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The number on the regulator indicates that it is an internal regulator that is fitted to a 3G alternator. It has a set point of 14.6 volts.
The number (F7FU-AA) stamped on the bearing cover may only refer to that part, but it indicates that it is 1997, outside US (foreign) sales (Trans Am Racing), Special Vehicles Operation.
Output amperage is unknown, and there are several different 3G alternator cases.
Is this the alternator that you are using? Have someone test it for you.
John
The number (F7FU-AA) stamped on the bearing cover may only refer to that part, but it indicates that it is 1997, outside US (foreign) sales (Trans Am Racing), Special Vehicles Operation.
Output amperage is unknown, and there are several different 3G alternator cases.
Is this the alternator that you are using? Have someone test it for you.
John
Hi John thanks for the reply.
When I bought the pantera I got almost a complete engine with and it is from these parts I took the alternator, it looks like it has newer been used before.
Can you tell me how the install an alternator with internal regulator?
The alternator installed today has an orange, green and a big black wire. The O and G wire I think goes directly to the regulator. And out of the regulator goes a blue and yellow wire.
The new alternator has a green and yellow wire but I guess it should not be connected to the regulator maybe the blue and yellow wire?
Here I a pic of what I think is the regulator:
When I bought the pantera I got almost a complete engine with and it is from these parts I took the alternator, it looks like it has newer been used before.
Can you tell me how the install an alternator with internal regulator?
The alternator installed today has an orange, green and a big black wire. The O and G wire I think goes directly to the regulator. And out of the regulator goes a blue and yellow wire.
The new alternator has a green and yellow wire but I guess it should not be connected to the regulator maybe the blue and yellow wire?
Here I a pic of what I think is the regulator:
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Start with the obvious. Disconnect the battery and remove the old alternator. Then mount the new alternator. You need to get the two connectors that fit the new alternator (see pic).
The orange and green wires that were removed from the old alt will not be used. The heavy black wire will connect to the insulated stud of the new alt. The yellow wire from the 3-wire connector will also connect to the same insulated stud that the heavy black wire is connected to. The white/black wire will connect to the single connector that plugs into the alt. This is the stator terminal. The green/red wire from the 3-wire connector will connect to the blue wire that is on the old firewall mounted voltage regulator at the "I" terminal. Cut this blue wire at the old regulator connector and extend it with a piece of new wire, and connect it to the green/red wire of the new 3-wire alt connector. This is the wire for the "GEN" light in the tach. Disconnect the connector from the old voltage regulator and cap it. The yellow wire at this connector will still be hot.
More info to follow shortly.
John
Alternator connectors.
The orange and green wires that were removed from the old alt will not be used. The heavy black wire will connect to the insulated stud of the new alt. The yellow wire from the 3-wire connector will also connect to the same insulated stud that the heavy black wire is connected to. The white/black wire will connect to the single connector that plugs into the alt. This is the stator terminal. The green/red wire from the 3-wire connector will connect to the blue wire that is on the old firewall mounted voltage regulator at the "I" terminal. Cut this blue wire at the old regulator connector and extend it with a piece of new wire, and connect it to the green/red wire of the new 3-wire alt connector. This is the wire for the "GEN" light in the tach. Disconnect the connector from the old voltage regulator and cap it. The yellow wire at this connector will still be hot.
More info to follow shortly.
John
Alternator connectors.
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Installed
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I assume that the new alternator is also a pivot mount like your old one, as there is also a side mount alt. The pivot mount comes in two sizes, 7" an 8.25". This is the center to center distance of the two (top and bottom) mounting holes. Your old alt is 7". I haven't tried the 8.25" in the Pantera, so I don't know if it will clear.
The hole for the adjusting arm is not threaded. You can either use a longer bolt with a nut and washers, or install a heli-coil in the hole. The adjusting arm will hit the top of the alt, significantly limiting adjustment. You can either heat and reshape the adjusting arm, or remove some material from the bottom of the arm. The back of the alt will contact the dipstick tube when rotating the alt clockwise, as would be required when removing a belt.
Since the alt case is held together with three bolts, the regulator (back case half) can be installed (clocked) in three different positions, 8, 12, and 4 o'clock. You want the 4 o'clock position. 12 o'clock would be straight up into the heater hoses. In the pic above, the alt pivot bolt is at the lower left, barely visible in the pic.
The next area of concern would be the alternator's output. See if you can have it checked. If it's a 75 amp, you're OK. If it's a 95 amp, and you haven't added additional loads to the car, and you don't use it to charge a dead or drained battery, you should be OK. If it's a 130 amp (or higher), you really should increase the wire size from the alt to the ammeter, and from the ammeter back to either the starter solenoid (early cars), or the battery...however yours is wired. If you have a voltmeter installed instead of an ammeter, then a large wire directly to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid works.
John
The hole for the adjusting arm is not threaded. You can either use a longer bolt with a nut and washers, or install a heli-coil in the hole. The adjusting arm will hit the top of the alt, significantly limiting adjustment. You can either heat and reshape the adjusting arm, or remove some material from the bottom of the arm. The back of the alt will contact the dipstick tube when rotating the alt clockwise, as would be required when removing a belt.
Since the alt case is held together with three bolts, the regulator (back case half) can be installed (clocked) in three different positions, 8, 12, and 4 o'clock. You want the 4 o'clock position. 12 o'clock would be straight up into the heater hoses. In the pic above, the alt pivot bolt is at the lower left, barely visible in the pic.
The next area of concern would be the alternator's output. See if you can have it checked. If it's a 75 amp, you're OK. If it's a 95 amp, and you haven't added additional loads to the car, and you don't use it to charge a dead or drained battery, you should be OK. If it's a 130 amp (or higher), you really should increase the wire size from the alt to the ammeter, and from the ammeter back to either the starter solenoid (early cars), or the battery...however yours is wired. If you have a voltmeter installed instead of an ammeter, then a large wire directly to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid works.
John
The 3G alternator does not require an external fan like the original Pantera alternator. If transferring the alt's pulley, you will need a thin spacer between the pulley and the alt bearing. Without the spacer, the pulley will be pushed into the alt case.
John
John
Thank you John for your thorough guide it has helped alot. I'll report back as some as I can start the car (have the radiator out for rebuild)
Rolf
Rolf
Glad to be of assistance, Rolf. We're here to help. Don't hesitate to post more questions.
John
John