CenterForce Clutch

The Centerforce DF021048-S is a bolt-on 11" dia diaphragm clutch cover and your stock flywheel will accept the assembly without redrilling. The 10-1/2" Centerforce clutch & disc will hold at least 450 horces; the 11" stock unit was probably overkill originally but thats what we got. You'll be pleased by the reduction in pedal pressure with either of these clutches. I ALWAYS advise using a long-throw slave cylinder for a reasonable increase in disengagement at the clutch. This saves your priceless ZF synchronizers (or whats left of them, anyway...) The crowned or radiused-face throwout bearing recommendation for flat-finger diaphragm clutches comes not from me but from Mac Tilton, who knows a thing or two about clutches. He says that due to the angle made between the face of a flat-face throwout bearing and the diaphragm clutch fingers, clutch action is non-linear and abrupt. A crowned face makes the car more controllable. Note also there is a bent-finger diaphragm clutch for Chevys that works with flat-face throwouts, just to confuse things (not offered by Centerforce though). Don't know anything the McLeod unit- sorry.

Which hydruilic throwout bearing should I use in the zf. PAW sells the unit for all major tranmissions. Such at toploader, t-5, t-10 etc.

Thanks

I have a resurfaced flywheel for the centerforce bolt circle. $100

Wldkty: hydraulic throwouts are a whole other subject! The current units work very well once installed correctly but require extremely critical (and touchy!) free-play adjustment to work very long. The throwout piston seal is designed to work back-&-forth at a slow rate rather than spinning at high rpm. The free-play adjustment changes with engine temperature, and there isn't much clearance in a Pantera bellhousing. I use a Tilton race unit which requires a separate threaded nose section (replacing the ZF part) for your tranny of choice. Of course, no one makes such a thing for the ZF, so I had to build one. PPC/Colorado sells a slightly different unit that uses internal jam-nuts to hold the adjustment. Several vendors used to sell these but warrantee problems with the early designs forced the majority to drop the item. Figure on paying maybe $300. They'll work off a stock clutch master cylinder.