changing under dash interior fan

Not sure what Gary sold you. The replacement heater fan assy should plug into the std box, and yes, it CAN be swapped in the car without removing the dash, but you need small hands and an intimate knowlege of where the screws are that mount it. Note that this is a DC fan so its possible to install the assembly backwards, which really cuts down the airflow. Reversing the wires does little because the fan blades are directional. Don't ask how I know this..... Your car must be a '74 or newer since earlier ones didn't have the outside-air hose from cowl to heater box.

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Originally posted by jack deryke:
Not sure what Gary sold you. The replacement heater fan assy should plug into the std box, and yes, it CAN be swapped in the car without removing the dash, but you need small hands and an intimate knowlege of where the screws are that mount it. Note that this is a DC fan so its possible to install the assembly backwards, which really cuts down the airflow. Reversing the wires does little because the fan blades are directional. Don't ask how I know this..... Your car must be a '74 or newer since earlier ones didn't have the outside-air hose from cowl to heater box.

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Thanks very much for the input Jack I have read so much of you.
My car was made Nov. 74 ownership says it a 75 & I have owned it since 77
I took out the dash, center console and the fan assembly. The new fan requires
some modification to make it work, in doing this I�ll have to make up a offset bracketed air channel to try and reconnect that incoming air box. The unit I got from Gary has a � -�� clearance all around the squirrel cage. The original unit has maybe as much as �� clearance. So what do ya think does the new unit sound better suited to push the air because of the closer tolerance? ANOTHER THOUGHT I could take the fan blades out of the new unit and put them into the old one they�re the same dia.; just have to be adjusted along the shaft to fit. This makes it a snap to simply reconnect every thing. The question is what�s the best? Or is there such a thing.

I'd check the motor speed and amperage of the Hall and stock motor & use that which pulls more power. Be VERY careful if you patch-cord these motors to a 12v source: they have a surprising amount of torque for such a small package and dropping one while spinning will make the fan swap academic... Using the bigger fan on the more powerful motor will upgrade your defrosters, something the car badly needs in humid climates IMHO. Its well worth some effort to keep the outside-air intake, too.