charging problem

I would agree voltage regulator

I should also note that none of my gauges work execpt the tach. i do have mechAnical gauges for temp and oil pressure while im working on it.

Any relation to the alternator?

Did you check all of the fuses? If your windshield ever leaked then water may have corroded the fuse bus.

No, I didnt think to check the fuses yet.
As far as the voltage regulator goes, I suppose they are somewhat universal, in that i Just need to figure out my system requirements and purchase that one?

If you have a stock charging system then ask the auto parts for a regulator for a 72 ranchero with the 351C motor.

When you turn the key to the run position, does the "GEN" indicator light? If not, then you may not be getting power to the voltage regulator's "I" terminal. The "GEN" light receives it power (white wire) from the +12 volt feed to the tach, which is unfused. There should also be a large resistor attached across the light's two terminals.

John

... All the gauges run off the ACC. of the Ignition Switch.
The switch must be in the 'ACC' or 'RUN' position for the Gauges to receive 12 volts, from their Fuses.
Its the Green wire coming off the terminal block(on the steering column nearest the Ign. Switch). The Green wire terminates at one or two fuse registers at the fuse buss.

At the same term. block; the green wire gets power from the pink wire, AFTER going through the Ign Switch.

Fuses can be tricky!! They can look OK, but, are not. I would always do a Continuity Test.
And, the Copper contacts, usually are the problem..from 'Softening' spring tension, to corrosion.
I went to ALL Curcuit Breakers a long time ago..Along with a Keyless, Push To Start, Ignition.

Also, You have to CHECK All the Grounding wires under the dash. There is a Major grounding Stud, Way up under the dash under the Drivers' side A piller. You'll have to lay on your back and use a flashlight, in order to see it.
The last count I know of, was 9 or 10 wires are Grounded at that Single point! Sometimes the nut on that grounding stud..comes loose, can you imagine the intermittent problems THAT would cause?!
Since I'am on the subject of 'Groundings', I would like to add: There is only ONE means of the (originally installed) Engine Block receiving a Proper Ground. That would be the flimsie, thin, anemic, braided copper strap..at the tailend of the ZF. It links a Stud on the transaxle, to a stud on the rear chassis. (the motor mounts or TransAxle mounts; may Or may not provide a good grounding). They may be Isolated by the rubber.

What depends on this grounding to operate effectively?

StarterMotor
Starter Solenoid (if mounted on the Starter or block)
Distributor Points
Coil
Electronic Ignition Modual (unless there is a 'Floating' Ground wire)
Tach
SparkPlugs
Alternater
Voltage Regulater
Electric Choke
ALL ELECTRICAL Senders (of gauges)
Other Solenoids, such as a 'Idle Stand-Off'
Did I leave anything out?

I replaced the braided strap with a very Thick Battery Cable..bolted at the passenger side, Upper crossmember, mount; with the other end bolted Directly to the TOP Mounting Stud of the Startermotor. The Cable is then in Full Contact with Both the Starter Housing And the BellHousing to Block! Best of all, the Heavy Load Currant is No longer flowing through the Transaxle Case!

Most Starters draw well over 100 Amps. Some..Near 200. It ALL has to Flow through that little strap! Most of It..Simultaneously!!...

Check the amp meter does it move are the nuts tight?

Download and print at Kinko's the wiring diagram if you pm me I will send it to you but you can get it at panteraplace.com then just follow with a meter or light.

Thanks for the tips guys.
It was either the ground strap or the regulator, replaced both.

I still dont have power to any gauges other than the tach and the amp meter.

Confused about the "GEN" light, what does this mean? its on when the key is turned to run, but not after the car is fired.

Thanks!

quote:

Confused about the "GEN" light, what does this mean? its on when the key is turned to run, but not after the car is fired.

That's the way it's supposed to work.

John

The console gauges (fuel, temp, & oil) are fed with a pink wire from fuse #12. There is a nylon connector that all of the gauge wiring is connected to. It is located just above the kick panel by the accelerator pedal. Check for +12 volts on the pink wire at this connector. Check both sides of the connector.

There could also be a bad ground to the gauges. Try a temporary jumper from the black gauge ground wire to a good ground.

John