Choke or No Choke

If you have a Holley 4bbl, there is an electric choke assembly available from any speed shop in the universe, for less than $50. It replaces the manual unit with a series of small castings and the choke heater. It needs one hot wire to the choke assembly to work. Do NOT use the ignition coil as the source of 12VDC power, though. Doing this will limit the engine to about 4500 rpms tops as the choke sucks electrons from the ignition. Find another source of 12VDC, prefereably ignition-switch controlled so the choke is not on constantly. Holley includes explicit directions with the assembly and only a screwdriver is needed to install & adjust.

Wellis,

You don't mention which type of carb you are running presently...

It may be that you have a manual choke, as the electric version may have interfered with the jackshaft center bearing holder.

This is an issue that I have been working on...and now since my engine project is finally underway, will be dealing with it first hand shortly!

What I can tell you, is that mounting a Holley carb in the normal config, throttle linkage on the LH side of the engine, results in issues with too much metal.... The choke housing on a Holley hits the bracket, and I am hesitant to cut the (NEW!) bracket up too much. Other carbs may not have this issue.... "Your mileage may vary" seems to be the mantra!

Carb base spacers will help this out, but then you may run into height issues if you are running a stock air cleaner, which is one of my "must have" requirements of the new engine config. (See my other thread under "Ooops...."

I do agree that the electric choke is handy, but the manual choke would be fine for me now if it means less cutting. Beats having nothing, which is how my car came!

Ciao!
Steve