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13 replies

CHROME SWITCH BEZEL For interior rocker switches

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jtpanterajtpanteraMember
Yes, I have rebuilt the switches. Eventually, I will photo document the the approach that I use as I am tackling about 20 of them currently.

Removal of the bezel is more complicated than it looks and will require some care as you will be removing 3 rivets, not only the obvious one, and risk the entire switch coming apart. Whether or not the entire switch coming apart is an problem for you will depend on your mechanical acumen and attention to dis assembly. It is not rocket science.

First, you will need supplies. Two 1/2" long #2 56 thread socket head screws with small diameter stainless nuts. The reason for stainless is that they are manufactured smaller and clearance is an issue. The socket heads fit the case perfectly. I source the nuts from my local Ace and the bolts from a local RC/railroad hobby shop.

Second, you will need a #2 56 tap and a 1/4 inch long #2 56 threaded bolt with a flat seat and rounded head. I get the tap from the hobby shop.

Here are the steps.

Use a drill bit of larger diameter than the long rivet to remove one of the press fit sides of the long rivet. The rivet will then slide out and the button is now removable.

This will expose two additional rivets. Drill them out as well. You can now remove the bezel. However, be careful to hold the base plate, upon which the bezel sits, together with the case or a larger project is in store for you.

Holding the new bezel in place, install the two 1/2 long bolts from the bottom and add the nuts to hold the bezel in place. Yes, it is a dexterity test.

Place the long rivet that you first removed in a vice and thread the side that you removed with the tap. Chamfer the end of the rivet that you just tapped to aid its insertion through the bezel and button. Don't forget the side prongs that hold the switch in place in the console. Then use the short screw to complete the rivet.

We have been investigating how to rechrome the bezels as we were unaware that they were available. Please share where you sourced them and how much they are.
jtpanterajtpanteraMember
I was rebuilding today another set of switches that had been sent to me for repair. These were unusual in that the bezel was not attached to the case with the two case rivets. First I had come across this assembly method.. I bring this to your attention as I had prescribed the necessity of removing three rivets to replace the bezel and that may not be necessary. I believe that these switches were not original but a replacement.
panteradougpanteradougMember
quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
Yes, I have rebuilt the switches. Eventually, I will photo document the the approach that I use as I am tackling about 20 of them currently.

Removal of the bezel is more complicated than it looks and will require some care as you will be removing 3 rivets, not only the obvious one, and risk the entire switch coming apart. Whether or not the entire switch coming apart is an problem for you will depend on your mechanical acumen and attention to dis assembly. It is not rocket science.

First, you will need supplies. Two 1/2" long #2 56 thread socket head screws with small diameter stainless nuts. The reason for stainless is that they are manufactured smaller and clearance is an issue. The socket heads fit the case perfectly. I source the nuts from my local Ace and the bolts from a local RC/railroad hobby shop.

Second, you will need a #2 56 tap and a 1/4 inch long #2 56 threaded bolt with a flat seat and rounded head. I get the tap from the hobby shop.

Here are the steps.

Use a drill bit of larger diameter than the long rivet to remove one of the press fit sides of the long rivet. The rivet will then slide out and the button is now removable.

This will expose two additional rivets. Drill them out as well. You can now remove the bezel. However, be careful to hold the base plate, upon which the bezel sits, together with the case or a larger project is in store for you.

Holding the new bezel in place, install the two 1/2 long bolts from the bottom and add the nuts to hold the bezel in place. Yes, it is a dexterity test.

Place the long rivet that you first removed in a vice and thread the side that you removed with the tap. Chamfer the end of the rivet that you just tapped to aid its insertion through the bezel and button. Don't forget the side prongs that hold the switch in place in the console. Then use the short screw to complete the rivet.

We have been investigating how to rechrome the bezels as we were unaware that they were available. Please share where you sourced them and how much they are.


I think you need to post pictures of completed switches for these instructions to make sense. At least to me? Roll Eyes

I've rebuilt about a dozen of the Pantera switches and never thought of going this way with reusing the drilled out rivets.

Agreed with stainless socket screws but better are stainless button heads. Also 6-32 are the sizes I use but then again I don't reuse the rivets.

I'd love to see what yours looks like. I'm always willing to learn from others and borrow, yea that's the term...borrow their best ideas! Big Grin

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