Clutch effort reduction linkage kit

Ben,

I installed the clutch pedal effort reduction kit in my car earlier this year as part of my car's restoration. Unfortunately, it has been over 25 years since I had driven the car so I don't remember what the pedal effort was like before I installed the kit. I had talked to a few people before purchasing the kit and they all recommended the kit.

I'm not sure, but I don't think that you can install the kit with the pedal support in the car. Ask Steve Wilkinson. I removed my pedal support from the car as I had a broken pedal return spring and the spring cannot be installed without removing the pedal support from the car. I would recommend replacing both springs. Removing the pedal assembly from the car will allow you to remove the clutch pedal shaft for cleaning and greasing the shaft pivots.

One of the items in the kit is a shorter push rod for the clutch master cylinder. It would be a good idea to replace the push rod dust boot with the shorter boot. I don't believe that the dust boot is included in the kit. BTW, replacing this push rod from inside the car may not be possible. This might be a good time to rebuild the master cylinders.

The only adjustment that you will need to make when installing this kit is to the clutch master cylinder push rod. If you adjust this rod too long, then you may not be able to depress the clutch pedal, or it may be harder to depress for the first 1/2 inch or so and then it will be ok. What happens if the push rod is too long is that the pivot on the clutch pedal shaft arm will be in line with the connecting link (connects pedal arm to bell crank) pivot and the bell crank pivot. With all three of these pivots in line with each other, nothing moves. This may sound complicated, but once you see it assembled, it will be easy.

I have driven my car 1200+ miles since installing the kit and it seems fine. Even in severe stop and crawl traffic, my leg hasn't complained, and believe me, it would.

John

Here's a pic of the parts. I don't remember if the dust boot was included with the kit.

As assembled, but out of the car. Dust boot is not installed. This allows you to adjust the push rod length.

Details for this kit can be found at www.ProvaMo.com:
http://www.provamo.com/Members...o/ClutchOverview.asp

There is even a video clip of it in action (pressed by my hand, it becomes that easy.)

Chuck

fyi, The clutch return spring can be replaced in the car in about 5 minutes. That includes removing the remenants of the old spring. My buddy Gil did mine. Mind you he's an expert on working on office equipement so he knows how to work in tight spaces!

quote:

The clutch return spring can be replaced in the car in about 5 minutes.

Yes, the clutch return spring at the slave cylinder can be changed in a matter of minutes once the tub is removed.

The spring that I referred to above is the clutch pedal return spring. You have to disconnect the link (or clutch master cylinder push rod) from the clutch pedal shaft, drive the roll pin out of the pedal and pedal shaft, and slide the pedal shaft towards the center of the car (no room unless a large hole is cut in the pedal support box). Then the pedal return spring can be replaced. The spring goes between the clutch pedal and the adjacent clutch pedal shaft support (casting).

John

And that's the same spring I'm referring to. Under the dash, laying on his back, used wire snips to remove the old one, then somehow screwed on the new spring. All done in place in the car. I know he's repeated this little trick on a couple of other cars in the club too. End result is the stock clutch pedal return spring replaced and looking like new again in just a few minutes.

I doubt the slave return spring has any effect on the clutch pedal position. Like you said, that one’s easy. Even amateurs like me can handle it.

Rick,

I guess we are on the same "spring" page. I figured out how it's done, although it seems a little hard on the spring. But I guess it works! Thanks for the tip.

John

It doesn't matter how you do it; it will break again anyway.

Thank you all for the help. Ben

Newsflash! Ben, I just pulled my dash1. It has a set of springs on the crosshaft that holds the throw out bearing. I'm installing the dash2 and inquired about the springs because they are not on it. S Wilkinson said they don't use the springs on the dash2 and Ford sent out a TSO to remove then from the dash1 because of pedal effort. I ad libbed the last part, but I can see how they would increase pedal effort. Too bad the tranny has to come out to remove them.This pic dash 1 with springs

Dash 2 without springs

Should I remove these springs from a dash-1 in a Mangusta?

Jay

Steve told me that I do not need them on the dash2. He said Ford sent out a TSB back in the day. The concern was pedal effort. They seem redudant to me too. Don't do anything just 'cause I said so. Tell you what else. I can press back the clutch lever on my dash1 with the springs with 1 hand. They don't make a whole lot of resistance. Bill

On my Mangusta ZF, which will hopefully be going in soon, the springs are actually pretty stiff.

I will push on the T/O bearing later on, and let you know how many seconds the red marks stay on my thumbs.

Then we will have a true criteria to measure with.

I pushed mine with the tranny on the table and did not have to disengauge the clutch too. You won't be moving anything with it installed. That's why I think It may not be a big diff. Anything would help. When I bought the first Centerforce I was expecting a big diff but My leg still cramps in traffic.

I don't think that the springs in the bellhousing make a lot of difference. You can compress them with a single finger, surely not a big deal for a hydraulic cylinder. I left them in the Mangusta to ensure that the T/O bearing backed completely away from the pressure plate. I have been told that the effort reduction kit only helps with the initial movement of the pedal and does not help the overall pressure.

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
I pushed mine with the tranny on the table and did not have to disengauge the clutch too. You won't be moving anything with it installed. That's why I think It may not be a big diff. Anything would help. When I bought the first Centerforce I was expecting a big diff but My leg still cramps in traffic.

I actually think that those springs are to make sure that the throwout bearing fully returns to the home position.

The Center Force is lighter then what was in my car when I got it. It would be interesting to read pedal pressure differences from car to car and clutch to clutch.

I think in one of the Ford shop manuals, maybe the Lincoln Versalles, the brake pedal pressure gets measured in order to verify it is within design specs.

I know that from working on a lot of Ford Power brake systems from the '70s that the brake pedal was considered correct if you could put your other foot under it while applying the brakes.

I don't remember seeing a number on any clutches , ever, but that is an interesting thought.

I'd bet you a bright shinny nickel Billy that the Center Force is something like 30% lighter then the original Long three finger in the car?

No one ever said that would be as light as a VW Beetle. Bill. Your leg doesn't cramp with that one too does it?

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
When I bought the first Centerforce I was expecting a big diff but My leg still cramps in traffic.

There are (at least) two Centerforce clutch covers that fit Pantera or Goose, and one is pretty soft while the second is competition- grade stiff; stiffer than a std. Long clutch. This one I would not recommend in anything less than a pumped-up big block. Do you know for sure which clutch cover you have in there? 'Cause if its that stiff, you don't need it unless you're racing for money with a highly pumped engine.

The new one for the dash2 is DF021057S 10.5 I doubt it is high performance. I was suprised how many hot spots were on the flywheel after only 5000 miles on a very mild engine.

The dual friction disc doesn't like steel flywheels. I think it is formulated for iron.

That is in fact one of the problems that I had with the dual friction.

The problem was in my Taurus SHO that I installed the center force dual friction in.

1)the throwout bearing wore into the diaphragm fingers on the clutch. I would say about .030" on something like a .080" thick finger.

2)The disc embedded itself into the flywheel surface about .040". The clutch material on the flywheel side was almost on the rivets. The pressure plate side was as it should have been.

3)this was with 8,000 miles of street usage.

On the Pantera I simply do not use the car enough to give any reports. It seems to be fine BUT my thought is simply that this all has to do with the "break in warning" that comes with the clutch. I think it said 500 to 1,500 mile break in?

What I interpret that to mean now after looking at these issues is the mating of the disc friction materials to the flywheel and the pressure plate. I think you have simply not mated or "broken in" the flywheel side Bill? That seems to be the hard side and it needs more mileage to mate to that flywheel.

Of course knowing what I know now it also may be that it will never mate to it and just wear that side of the disc down to the rivets prematurely.

I would tell you to talk to Gene, the tech guy at Centerforce but the fact is that I think he has developed this major ass hole itis and would rather be playing golf. Sorry Gene, but facts are facts. I know. You got the job and it's just a job and you don't give a f u c k? Sorry everyone but fore warned is fore armed. Centerforce just doesn't care what your problems with the clutch are. It's always someone else's problem...and it isn't theirs.

The clutch effort reduction kit is in and it has reduced the pressure by about half. It is still firm but manageable. Before it took one strong leg or two weak legs to depress it. Now one average leg should be able to depress the clutch. Noted was that I purchased new clutch master and slave cylinder for the 71 pantera from Wilkinson and the slave cylinder diameter is larger and the clutch fittings did not fit so I had to use the original slave. Would a larger slave help or worsen the pedal pressure? Ben

quote:

Would a larger slave help or worsen the pedal pressure?

Ben,

A larger slave piston will reduce the pedal pressure, but the slave piston will travel less.

John