Months ago I asked how one removes and replaces the clutch master cylinder single-handed.  I've discovered you can't .. you can barely do it with two people.  But it's done .. the slave was a piece of cake.  Naturally I didn't measure the threaded lengths of the old master and slave piston operating rods. Where they are set now  ..  on the master the clevis is screwed down to the nut on the rubber boot.  The slave is set about where I remember the original one was .. slight clearance from the TO bearing when the TO bearing arm is pushed on.

I suspect that with a totally bled system I need to screw the clevis out .. reconnect the pin .. and test to see if the slave moves enough to disengage.

But I'll take advice from this learned forum.  Thanks.

Last edited by George P
Original Post

Here are the adjustments for the slave as shown in the Ford TSB.

I don't have measurements for the clutch master's pushrod.  


Clutch slave adjustments



Images (1)

I was interested to see what the answers would be, as I don't "Know".

some thoughts I have though,

the stock clutch stroke is marginal.  Thus I would think you would want to set full down with the MC on its internal stop with the pedal pressed.   I have looked with no luck if there was a dimesision for how far from the carpet the pedal should stop.

with the effort redudtion, besides the pedal stop to get full desingament, another concern is the intial orination of the linkage when pedal is up

Last edited by jfb05177

I suspect trial and error is the solution.  I have the MC clevis screwed all the way in which is the shortest stroke of the MC.  I'm going to back it out 1/2 way and test the engagement .. if no go then I'll proceed to full out (and pray that is enough stroke.  This is a rebuilt original MC (and slave) so it should work somewhere.  

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