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quote:
Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
quote:
Bore the hole out and machine a bronze bushing to press in. Machine a new pin out of tool steel. End of Story...

Marlin, you left out:
buy a drill press, buy a lathe and get machining experience.
I think it would be more practical for most to buy the new piece for $67.
Will


I was thinking the same thing. Sorry, but most of us don't have access to the same machinery that Marlin Jack has. Machining a bushing seems to be a little out of my league.

I second the idea to find the cause of the problem. It looks like there may be something else going on.
Thanks all, did not know the piece was available separately, thought (was told) it was only sold as a kit for @ 200., should have done my research first.

I DID think about the machine and bush route .... for about 3 seconds. Nixed that route due to the reduced meat that would be left over only to be filled with a softer metal, not a good long term fix and I don't want to revisit this pedal assy EVER again. Even thought about fabing up a new piece from steel stock, but I have other repairs to do with the time, gettin to be a longer list day by day, why keep reinventing the wheel?

Gonna go with new piece and bearing. The cars mileage is only around 40k and the bearings were pretty much caked up, probably the culprit. Just another thing to fix.

Thanks again,

Angelo
Why did such wear happen? Because when the car was originally built, someone MAY have oiled the steel-on-steel pins vs link. Or not.... And certainly not since, given the difficulty to access it. When I began looking at clutch motion compared to pedal motion, I found three (3) links and pins badly worn in our L's linkage. Bushing all the link holes and using hardened steel pins fixes the wear.
I'm thinking I found the culpret for the wear. Evidently when the clutch master was installed the master pushrod seen in the opposing hole was screwed in tight against the pin boss. That pretty much locked that arm and pin in place putting more stress in the worn hole. Note to self... make any clutch adjustments elsewhere if possible, or at least don't lock shaft to bellcrank

Angelo
Hi there Angelo
I'm installing a used effort reduction kit in my early car for the first time. There is some question as to whether the clutch pedal cross shaft I have is the correct one. I wonder if you might have a photo of your shaft you could send me or post here? I need to be able to see the relationship between the angle of the clutch pedal and the arm at the other end of the shaft. I'm loading a photo f mine to give you an idea of what I mean. Thanks in advance.

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  • ER_kit
John
Steve also told me I don't need to change the shaft. He may be right, but I am puzzled by the two different part numbers and other people who say the shafts are different. I am certain it works with the early shaft or Steve wouldn't say so. I just want to know if it works better with the kit shaft and how different they are, if at all.
Barry
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