Hi All.

I would like to start a thread about swapping to a new generation Ford 5.0

There seems to be a lot of discussion about it on this web site but not a lot of technical info shared. Soooo I would like to start openly sharing what I have found and ask others if they could also share their info.

I AM POSTING INFORMATION AS I DISCOVER IT. PLEASE TAKE IT WITH A GRAIN OF SALT. I HAVE NOT FINISHED THE INSTALL YET AND SOME INFO MAY NOT PLAY OUT AS I GET DEEPER INTO THE SWAP.

ENJOY! Thumbs Up!



Thanks To All.
Evan

Last edited by George P
Original Post
Bought a bare block to start a mock up.

The new block is a full 3 in. shorter than the 351C block. The dimensions on the PDF file shows that the engine length to the end of the crank pulley is also a full 3 in shorter.
This is ignoring the A/C I have no idea how the A/C fits into a mustang.

The new block shares the pattern of some bell-housing bolts.
Here I have it bolted up just for kicks.
quote:
Originally posted by agustaboy:
Bought a bare block to start a mock up.

The new block is a full 3 in. shorter than the 351C block. The dimensions on the PDF file shows that the engine length to the end of the crank pulley is also a full 3 in shorter.
This is ignoring the A/C I have no idea how the A/C fits into a mustang.

The new block shares the pattern of some bell-housing bolts.
Here I have it bolted up just for kicks.

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well looks like the bell housing is on back order. Lakewood is awful about this. They will push it back again and again for months on end.

Does any one here have one to loan out? I've got time and money to get this done but the bell housing will grind me to a halt.
It's been leaked that the next generation of 5.0L V8 (in the Shelby GT350), called the "Voodoo engine", will put out 550 Hp, have a redline of 8,000 rpm and have a flat plane crankshaft like Ferrari uses.
Bell Housing.

talked to Steve @ Panteras By Wilkinson

He sells Bell housings. Stock Modified Aluminum bell housings.

So moving forward again.
UPDATE. ALTHOUGH USING A STOCK BELLHOUSING (WITH MODIFICATION) IS AN OPTION I'VE DECIDED TO GO BACK TO MY INITIAL PLAN TO USE THE QUICK TIME / LAKEWOOD HOUSING. MOUNTING OF THE STARTER IS MUCH LESS TROUBLE THAT WAY.
Last edited by agustaboy
Sorry Evan. I must have got the last adapter bellhousing. Be aware that fully dressed the coyote is longer where the least clearance is available which is the phaser section of the heads. The rear of the heads is also flush with the bellhousing mounting face. This creates heavy interference both the inner fenders and the upper firewall. That being said, if you trim the inner fenders enough to mate the engine to the trans with it in the stock location there is tons of room between the balancer and the firewall. It would be tough to trim the inner fenders that far as you would be cutting directly into the control arm support brace. I would rather shift the whole works forward and just modify the firewall and axle openings.
Blaine Great info.

How far forward (Aprox) do you think you will go to create a comfortable clearance from the inner fender? 1, 2, 3 inches?

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quote:
Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
if you trim the inner fenders enough to mate the engine to the trans with it in the stock location there is tons of room between the balancer and the firewall. It would be tough to trim the inner fenders that far as you would be cutting directly into the control arm support brace. I would rather shift the whole works forward and just modify the firewall and axle openings.

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A previous owner pounded down the inner fender flange on my car. Looks like there's about 3/8s to 1/2 to be had if you want to do some old fashioned metal working.

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I figure around 2 inches forward would provide adequate clearance to the inner fenders. I am hoping to set the engine into the bay on Monday to get an idea what kind of space I we are working with.

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