So, if i cant find a way to eliminate my big crank end play, i could end up putting in a new crank. Already took one Service able crank out of another engine. So now my question is: Will i be able to put it in from the bottom, without removing the top of engine at all. Cam is still in, lifters, intake, carburator also. (Engine is not in car, so dont worry
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Br, Henrik
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...Would an 'Over-Thick', 3rd Main 'Thrust Bearing', Tighten Up the End-Play?? About Installing the Crank...I guess if it Could Clear the Con Rods!? Being Careful Not to Knick the Journals!
MJ
Maybe. The complete engine is about 550 lbs so you'll need a secure engine stand that rotates so the block is upside-down. You'll need to slowly lower the crank while playing with each rod to maintain alignment as the crank is lowered, all without the rod bolts touching the rod journals and scarring them up. It'll be tricky. The bare crank weighs 53 lbs- I would use an engine hoist on the crank and pieces of plastic tubing on the rod bolts. Don't forget the crank seal halves. Good luck-
@marlinjack posted:...Would an 'Over-Thick', 3rd Main 'Thrust Bearing', Tighten Up the End-Play?? About Installing the Crank...I guess if it Could Clear the Con Rods!? Being Careful Not to Knick the Journals!
MJ
Yes it would, but i cant find one.
This is partially taken from 'Don Terrill's Speed Talk' online:
Moderator: Team
Also try Summit Racing!!
Call them Up and have a Talk! They might surprise You!
Good-Luck!!
It is going to be much easier to change the crank out of the engine if you remove it and put it on an engine stand. It is possible to do it in the car but with the amount of disassembly necessary, it is going to take a thousand times longer to do then just pulling it out and doing it the sane way.
For one thing, engine oil is going to be constantly dripping on your face and the bigger issue is that in order to drop the crank down, you need to disconnect the transmission from it.
Additionally, you are going to need to know the amount of thickness you need added to the bearing. To do that you need to pry the crank to measure the clearance that you have. Better to do that on the stand. I see it as likely you are going to need a custom thickness bearing and here's the issue, you can't know if for some reason, the thrust face of the crank is worn unevenly?
But even determining that, it is doing the entire thing backwards. Those bearings are likely to be made in some kind of standard oversizes which means that the crank is the thing that gets refinished, even on the thrust face.
Frankly, I think that it is all better to pull the engine and count on replacing the crankshaft.
Crank refinishers here only get like $150 on an exchange basis. If everything is stock, you won't even need to have the assembly rebalanced. Just change it out with new bearings that likely will be undersized.
In my racing days, no one wanted to use a crank with more then .020 over sized bearings. (If the crank is undersized then the bearing is oversized)
Correctly or incorrectly, the feeling was that because there was more metal in the bearings themselves, they were thicker, that it gave more possibility of essentially "squashing" the bearing. It is important to remember though that those engines were being turned at excessive rpm's so normally a .030 under crank with .030 over bearings, would never be an issue in street car. In a race engine, it might be.
I personally never saw that happen but who knows for sure? Maybe just racers paranoia?
I think that in the case of a Cleveland, fully grooved main bearings is an excellent precaution to build into the engine.
...(Engine is not in car, so don't worry))
