custom ZF mounts

What grade material & matching process is being used?

Why countersink the mounting holes when a full thickness measurement would be stronger?...Mark

Billet 6061T-6 Aluminum
3 Axis CNC Machining Center

As for the counter sinks I copied the stock "Cast" unit.

I can make them without if you would prefer.

Evan

Looks Like I will be making Motor mounts too. 351C That will lower and or move the motor forward or aft. in .5in increments Price on the motor mounts
will be $750 per pair

Hello Evan; Appreciation your clarification!

As I readily admit I DIDN'T know the stock units were "cast" & countersunk making your custom pieces infinitely stronger, in addition your pricing is in my opinion...extremely competitive

On aside note...Have you considering custom mounts to LOWER the engine & transmission?

I would DEFINITELY be interested in that!!!...Mark

I have a frame stiffener under My ZF so I'm limited as to how much I could lower mine....But if some wanted a set to lower the ZF I could certainly design that in.
Evan

I've been asked about a 2.5 in offset. It would look something like this.

Everyone will need to do their own research about fitment. I think this much offset will interfere with the speedo cable.

Would there be any significant change in f/r weight distribution if the engine/transaxle assembly was moved to the rear about an inch or so?

It would make a difference. Noticable? we'll see.

I thought I would see requests to move forward and not to the rear.

I'm moving mine reward 1 in to better accommodate the Coyote engine I'm building. That and I have some interest in someday supercharging the engine. Need the clearance to the firewall.

quote:

Originally posted by agustaboy:
It would make a difference. Noticable? we'll see.

I thought I would see requests to move forward and not to the rear.

I'm moving mine reward 1 in to better accommodate the Coyote engine I'm building. That and I have some interest in someday supercharging the engine. Need the clearance to the firewall.

Hello Evan; I too are rather surprised at requests to move in essence "Weight" further back, being that the Pantera is already "Front-End LIGHT!!!".

I will also promise to utilize the precise machining terminology in the future to appease & prevent incurring the wrath of Marlin Jack...Mark

LOL

Yes I'm thinking of relocating the gas tank to the front like Chris/Scott did.

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...62/m/7581071156/p/10

And or mounting some lead up front.

Anyway some out there might be interested in a set of stock position billet mounts.

Polish them or anodize them some crazy color.

Moving the Engine/Trans forward 1in would look something like this.

And 2in forward starts to look like R2-D2

[QUOTE]Originally posted by agustaboy:
LOL

Yes I'm thinking of relocating the gas tank to the front like Scott did.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...62/m/7581071156/p/10



And or mounting some lead up front.

Jeez, we went for years without people chirping back and forth. Were turning into a tuner club with a bunch of punks.
Signing off…...

quote:

Originally posted by Marlin Jack:
...Folks, The Machinists down out Our shop have made a very lucrative Living off, Just Fixing and Repairing the 'Screw-Ups' performed by engineers who thought they knew better then a Specialized Trained Machinist, and took on repairs themselves. Or They just Did Not Listen or Follow Instructions.
The following is just a very small example of what I am speaking of.

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:

I will also promise to utilize the precise machining terminology in the future to appease & prevent incurring the wrath of Marlin Jack...Mark

A Smart Ass! "No Man is as Blind, as the Man who WON'T See!"

There is also a time tested adage...

As per the example you posted...

"*Last: Lucky for Your customers, Your Price! I would have charged $300.00 EACH. My Boss just finished CNC Machining a Pair of 'Engine Support Struts' for a Vintage Aircraft. They NO LONGER EXIST! About 14" Long, a Lot More Complicated and Multiple Operations, Same Material 6061 AL. He Greatly Improved upon the Original Design. The Cost to the Customer?
$10,000. EACH!"

That being..." A Fool & his money are SOON PARTED!"

Lets work out the cost of Marlin Jack's $10,000 EACH parts!

A customer brings in a pair of Engine Support Struts.

The parts are scanned for duplication, those measurements are placed into a CNC computer program, the part/s are then machined.

At a $200.00 an hour shop rate it would TAKE 100 HOURS to produce two 14 INCH LONG parts!!!

Marlin Jack...You just BLEW UP my B.S. METER!!! & at your Boss's rates it would cost 1.375 MILLION to FIX!!! ...Mark

ANYWAY.

This is going to be a ONE TIME production run. So let me know your interest level.
I will be starting production on July 1st.

******Disclaimer*****

It is up to you to check for clearance issues.
There will be no refunds.
You will have to change your motor mounts too.


I know as for me that I can move the engine/trans rearward 1 in. without issue.
I am using a cable actuated shifter from Scott(ZR1 Pantera) at SACC so I will have no issues but you might if you are going to use the stock shifting rods.
http://www.saccrestorations.net/

When you relocate the engine in a compactly designed car like the Pantera, there are unanticipated effects. In 1995, I shifted our engine/ZF back 3/4" by using already-drilled second motormount bolt-holes in '72-up Panteras. Why so little? Because more than that causes the lower frame crossmember to hit the forward edge of the Aviad oil pan notch. As the Aviaid pan is a race-proven assembly, I chose not to alter it. My custom removeable crossmember (circa 1990) is also a proven piece. This much powertrain movement is accommodated in back by bending the rearmost steel frame tabs into a shallow 'S'. Bending the tabs lowers the rear of the transaxle, so I used 3/4" longer tie-bolts and a custom aluminum spacer, with a new hole in the front (unbent) tab. The slight tilt in the engine did not affect the carb float heights significantly for 20,000 miles.

A decade later, I sectioned & TIG-welded the stock upper motormounts, taking 1" out of them to lower the engine height and level out the carb for air cleaner clearance. !" turned out to be the max I could lower it, as the bottom of the Sankyo AC compressor then hit the crossover water pipe. By notching the lower frame's pinch-weld seam and slightly oval-izing the stainless pipe, I managed to lower the pipe enough that the two parts do not rub. More than that would have required running the pipe THROUGH the lower subframe while pulling the engine for frame welding/bracing. 1" engine lowering also brings the edge of the harmonic damper VERY close to the rubber hose that supplies coolant to the surge tank. By adding a 90 degree copper bend with careful routing of straight sections of hose, I minimized the interference but I know things move around more than you'd think when hot. So I added a small metal rub-strip to the hose where the balancer gets closest. So far (5000 miles), there's no witness-mark on it.

FWIW, I did all this NOT to fractionally change the weight & balance of the car, but to achieve a flat firewall and eliminate the cockpit bulge around the 351-C water pump & alternator. It also allowed me to run a big-cap distributor without the fragile cap hitting the firewall. The alt still needed repositioning and custom aluminum crank/waterpump pulleys finished the job. Our firewall is now flat but my air cleaner still hits the early screen cover, all due to the aluminum SVO heads & mandatory high-rise intake. Everything affects everything else!

All this has been awhile ago so I forgot another important detail. Lowering the engine causes the left motormount to pinch the shift-shaft which passes through it via a stock notch, immobilizing the car. With the small amount of down-and-back movement I did, I managed to lower the shift-shaft support under the left header just enough for clearance, and the shifter stick then aligned as-stock in the cockpit. The shifter rod is now quite close to the edge of the block, bellhousing and inner fender edge but everything clears. Good luck with more movement than this.

Hi,

I'm interested in a set of mounts that lower the engine by 1" and move it forward a little. Do you know how far forward it can be moved without radical modifications? Maybe 1/2"?

Can you let me know if the cost is the same?

Thanks

Coolvet

quote:

Originally posted by agustaboy:
ANYWAY.

This is going to be a ONE TIME production run. So let me know your interest level.
I will be starting production on July 1st.

******Disclaimer*****

It is up to you to check for clearance issues.
There will be no refunds.
You will have to change your motor mounts too.


I know as for me that I can move the engine/trans rearward 1 in. without issue.
I am using a cable actuated shifter from Scott at SACC so I will have no issues but you might if you are going to use the stock shifting rods.

1/2 forward and 1in dropped start to get tricky.
The Trans mount holes and frame mount hole start to intersect.