Deck Lid Latch upgrade

I like the looks of that latch. I have been looking for a better latch. I used a latch froma Honda but this one looks much stronger. I went to the website you gave but it's under construction.
I did hook up an actuator to operate it and that part works fine.
Rick

Rick it is a local hot rod shop. They don't do very well with the web page but they do a lot of mail order. I will get the part number when I am in the shop today. I think it was $30.

I like the latch a lot. When I lay the lid down, I just push a little against the rubber and it latches. It doesn't take much pressure to release.

With the shaft type of latch it has no tendency to move back and forth. I can not push the deck lid sideways at all.

Very nicely executed. A well thought out improvement over the old styles.

Did you know some of the early push-button cars had a cable operated rear deck? Cable ran to a recessed Fiat-sourced release handle located in the driver's B pillar.

One thing I would suggest.

When, if, the cable to the front deck lid breaks, you are in major doo-doo. Tales are told of Ford dealerships grabbing the crowbar on the very early cars; the ones where there is no way to remove the front grill (to get to hood hinge bolts) from outside (held on by grill studs and nuts, not screws).

Ford even came out with their own TSB and upgrade kit, adding a second cable pull that was drilled and threaded into the pedal area.

This by the way is something EVERY Pantera owner should make sure is installed on their car.

A cable rear deck will have the same issue if it breaks. I know you went to great lengths to make it all look great; adding an emergency cable may seem to mess things up.

But the latch is not readily within reach from under the car, and with your cover, the guts aren't even open to a stretched-out hand.

Should a cable, or servo, go NFG you may have major issues.

Don't mean to rain on your parade. Your project would surely be on my list should some soccer mom ever crunch the back of 2511.

Just my 2¢

Larry

quote:

Did you know some of the early push-button cars had a cable operated rear deck? Cable ran to a recessed Fiat-sourced release handle located in the driver's B pillar.

My other pantera; 1280 has it both on the back deck and the pillar.

quote:

But the latch is not readily within reach from under the car, and with your cover, the guts aren't even open to a stretched-out hand.

Should a cable, or servo, go NFG you may have major issues.

Don't mean to rain on your parade. Your project would surely be on my list should some soccer mom ever crunch the back of 2511.

Just my 2¢

Larry

I already have it covered and it is so simple. If some one does this I will pass the solution on but I don't want to make it common knowledge.

***
Rick the part number is ROC-HT002 "Hood and Trunk Latch Side mount. They have 2 latches which look alike but one is side mount and one is base mount. I used the base mount in the front trunk but make sure you get the right one. They look identical otherwise.

Brilliantly executed! How do you plan to attach the cover? What did you make it from?

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by r mccall:
Brilliantly executed! How do you plan to attach the cover? What did you make it from?

Ron

Not sure yet. I was thinking just a couple sheet metal screws or rivets. I'll figure that out at assembly.

The metal is around 22g body type metal. We have a ~3000lb roll of it 3' wide we cut from.

Thanks for the part numbers. I'm curious, wouldn't the front latch also be a side mount. The original currently mounts from the side. Also, I do have an emergency cable routed to the rear fenderwell in case the cable fails but i would like to know how you did it.
rick

Yes but I bought a base mount latch before I saw the back mount latch. By doing so I didn't need to mess up the front bolts. I could use the existing bolts. Not as clean but I have not cleaned up the mount or made a cover for it yet:

The same concern arose with me when I installed mine. I realize that if the was a problem with the cable that I would never get the deck open.

The second thing is that I am constantly messing with the engine I feel that I need instant access to it for procedures like shooting the engine with the fire extinguisher. etc. I know I'm very picky. Go figure.

You simply cannot open the deck from the back of the car and in those first few microseconds of the engine igniting in flame I want to get at it. So, I took mine out and went back to stock.

I think any fire which burns through a steel cable toward the outside of the chassis is already bad enough I don't want to open the deck lid.

Anyone making alterations to this degree will have their own back door way of getting in. I had a 100 ideas and this latch lends itself well to hidden push buttons, etc.

These type of things are as individual as the cars kind of like a hidden ignition cut off. People generally don't post the way they do that sort of thing but most people going through this kind of trouble would likely put one in. It is an easy latch to adapt an alternative button or trigger.

Well. I would just drive faster to blow out the flames but the exposion took out the starter. My modification is simple. No modification. Push the button.

I had lost my 442 years ago because of an engine fire. I had just put the cable release kit in the car and it simply didn't work. The firemen used 4ft pry bars to get it open but by then the car had melted to the pavement.

comp2: Couldn't you have just modified the new latch a small amount to attach to the factory mounting points? Instead of welding in the new metal /stud combo?

Thanks,
Ron

Probably Ron but one bolt was gone, and the metal was ripped in that area. By welding in a heavier plate it is a little more durable then what I had.